Replies

1. 
   Napie | Apr 19, 2009 05:53pm | #1

   Keep it!  Mine is 1985 vintage with a number of upgrades.  It has a riser block, 2HP 220V motor, Carter Guides, and some items from Ittura Design.  It is a great saw and I use it almost every day for everthing from resawing to cutting out green bowl blanks.

1. 
   wmmorrow | Apr 19, 2009 06:35pm | #2

   THanks!

   Did you add the motor? If so where did you purchase it?

   Bill

1. 
   Napie | Apr 19, 2009 07:39pm | #3

   Yes.  I bought if froma a local supply house, they are pretty common.  You could try Graingers also.

   Contact these folks for more 14" Delta stuff:

   Iturra Design4636 <!----><!----><!---->Fulton RD<!----><!---->Jacksonville<!---->, <!---->FL<!----> <!---->32225-1332<!----><!---->1.888.722.7078 voice1.904.642.2802 fax

1. 
   wmmorrow | Apr 20, 2009 01:11am | #8

   Thanks again!!

   Bill

2. 
   roc | Apr 19, 2009 07:46pm | #4

   Everyone will be quite relieved that for once I am not going to post my novel long copy of an old post about how the only band saw in the world worth having for home shop resawing is the Laguna.

   Well not the only saw but I do really like mine !

   So I am not going to post that and to simply say having more than one band saw in your shop is a great way to go. Keep a skinny blade on one for cutting curves and thinner stuff and then have another bandsaw all set up with tall fence and skip tooth 3tip blade for resawing.

   By the way mine has a 2 hp Baldor motor on 220v. Resawing ten inch wide bubinga it hardly gets warm and there is no hint of bogging down. 220 is a good idea even if you have to run an extension cord to the drier plug in the laundry room.

   But yes it can be wired to run on 115v

   roc

   Give me six hours to chop down a tree and I will spend the first four sharpening the axe. Abraham Lincoln ( 54° shaves )

   Edited 4/19/2009 12:47 pm by roc

   
   

   ---

   Edited 4/19/2009 12:49 pm by roc

1. 
   wmmorrow | Apr 20, 2009 01:09am | #6

   Great suggestion and I had considered it but have given way to considerations  of space.

    

   Thanks much

   Bill

3. 
   SawdustSteve | Apr 20, 2009 12:46am | #5

   You should be able to easily mount a 1 to 1.5 HP motor and still use 110 V. power. Granger and them guys tend to get a bit pricy for me. If there is a motor repair shop in your area, stop by and see if he's got a used motor that will work for you.

   What you need to know is the RPM of the old motor, the shaft diameter, and does it use a 'key' or just set screws to hold the pulley in place. The rotation of most motors can be easily reversed by switching two wires around INSIDE the motor cover plate. The biggest problem is the placement of the mounting holes on the motor base. At one time Rockwell used a non-standard mounting hole pattern so you were forced to use their replacement motor, or to drill either the motor base or the mounting plate. It's easy. I've done it on several machines.
   SawdustSteve Long Island, NY (E of NYC)

1. 
   wmmorrow | Apr 20, 2009 01:16am | #9

   Steve,

   I have the needed info you mentioned and will try in the area. Will 1 !/2 hp be enough with the riser installed? The 1/2 hp mounted now does lug down with 6 inch oak. But taking it slow we get thru ok.

   Thanks

   Bill

1. 
   SawdustSteve | Apr 20, 2009 03:02am | #10

   If memory serves me correctly, the next step up is a 2 HP motor and that will mean installing a 220Volt line. I forgot to ask if you have a magnetic switch (push buttons) or a standard switch. If you go to 220, you will definitely need a different switch, while staying with 110 lets you keep your 'old' switch.
   SawdustSteve

4. 
   TonyCz | Apr 20, 2009 01:10am | #7

   Testdrive a Mini Max and you will be very happy.

5. 
   Don01 | Apr 20, 2009 05:48am | #11

   Bill,

   You will have to increase the HP in order to take on resawing. I would suggest that you look at at least 2HP. Don't short your self on this.
   You can do all of this for considerably less than buying a saw that can give you the 12" resaw capacity, and you do not sacrifice any floor space.
   The reasons I would give for going to a 17" saw is:
   - you don't have to do all this messing around, the saw should be capable of performing within in its specifications - 12" cutting height
   - the table is larger and lower, giving you better control when resawing 10 - 12" stock
   - there is more mass to the wheels, so once they are up to speed, the motor shouldn't lug as much.

   My 1 HP 14" sits on top of a cabinet which houses the motor. This height is fine for detail cutting, but not nice for 6-8ft pieces of 8/4. The smaller table and the height really hamper your control.

   Options, options options

   Don

1. 
   roc | Apr 21, 2009 04:34am | #12

   >height not nice for 6-8ft pieces of 8/4Yep. You're right.rocGive me six hours to chop down a tree and I will spend the first four sharpening the axe. Abraham Lincoln ( 54° shaves )

6. 
   trackersoft | Apr 21, 2009 09:52pm | #13

   I have the same saw -- first piece of equipment I got (for about $75) and I have added lots to it -- riser block and carter guides. I replaced the motor with a 1HP from Grizzly and that took almost all of the vibration away. I also have an 18" saw that I do my resawing on or I would have gone with a bigger motor.
   Replacing the motor is a good idea and I would look at the motors from Grizzly. Even if you get a new say I would keep that one with a narrow blade.

1. 
   wmmorrow | Apr 22, 2009 12:22am | #14

   Thanks! Checking Grizzly motors out right after this reply!!

    

   Bill

1. 
   Don01 | Apr 22, 2009 01:13am | #15

   Bill,
   Grizzly have some good options. Be sure to take a look the amperage requirements.
   Both 1 1/2 and 2 HP motors are going to draw in the order of 20 - 23 amps at 110 Volt.
   If you still want to run the saw on 110 volt, you had better check with you local electrical inspector to ensure you have the correct breaker and wire in place.
   There is your best reason to look at 220 Volt. Lower amps flowing through the wires and the motor, thus less heat.Don

1. 
   wmmorrow | Apr 22, 2009 06:43am | #16

   Good thoughts Don. I have 220 run to the shop for the unisaw and an a/c unit.

   But getting an outlet over to the bandsaw area would be a devil of a task the way I am set up.

   Generally the saw would only operate for 10 to 30 max minutes at a time. Would that factor make any difference??

   Grizzly has for $215.00 a 1 1/2 hp that seems just right for the upgrade. That is by far the best price I have seen.

   Thinking that 1 1/2 would be enough as seldom would cut 12 inch stock and now get thru 6 inch red oak by going slow. (painfully slow) with only a 1/2 hp motor.

   Wonder why Rockwell even offered so small a hp motor to begin with????

    

   Thanks, Bill

    

    

    

1. 
   roc | Apr 22, 2009 07:26am | #17

   >outlet over to the bandsaw area would be a devil of a task<Worth making up an extension cord and plug and un plug which ever machine you are using. Can get the flexible conductor off a spool and the rest of the stuff at home depo to save $rocGive me six hours to chop down a tree and I will spend the first four sharpening the axe. Abraham Lincoln ( 54° shaves )

2. 
   Don01 | Apr 23, 2009 02:11am | #19

   Bill,
   It will not matter how long you run the motor. Actually most motors pull more amps when starting, so your wires and breaker have to be sized correctly. Some codes require a safety factor as well - the load can only be a percentage of the line capacity maybe 80%
   Best to get this thing installed by the book.
   As roc suggested, you can probably set yourself up with a 220 v extension cord much easier and cheaper than than a 25 amp 110v circuit.
   You should be able to share the same outlet as your unisaw.Don

3. 
   twotowers | Apr 25, 2009 07:07am | #23

   Here is what I did in a similar situation. I ran a 100 AMP line to a separate fuse box in the shop. I can now wire 110 or 220 lines as needed. If I had to get an electrician to run separate 220 lines I would go broke quick and it woud hold me back from buying the right machine. I have had a 1.5 HP 16inch band saw wired for 110 for quite a while and the machine really labored on anything wide or wet. I just stepped up to a 3 hp 220 grizzly 21. Having the 100 amp box in the shop really gives you lots of flexibility and it is a fairly cheap option. The slave fuse box is connected to the home fuse box off a 100 amp breaker, so it is kind of hard to get into trouble. One suggestion make sure you properly ground your slave fuse box (long copper rods driven into the ground) this will eliminate static charge build up.
   TT

4. 
   wmmorrow | Apr 25, 2009 10:30pm | #24

   Many thanks!!

   Great suggestion.

   This could work with other machines as well.

   This is a great site and a wonderful hobby/vocation!!!!!!!!

   So many people willing to help and share their knowledge.

   Thanks to you all!!!!!!

   Bill

5. 
   twotowers | Apr 26, 2009 05:48am | #25

   Oh and one other suggestion, If you set up a separate shop fuse box for your shop, make sure you have an off switch for the panel - this allows you to work on the slave fuse box without going back to the main fuse box to turn off the power. I point this out as some boxes are set up for this feature and some are not. You never want to work on a hot box because it is to much trouble to walk back to the main fuse box.........everyone knows this.........just make sure you can power off the slave fuse box!And I guess you already know it is dirt cheep to add a 110 or 220 line after you have this set up.TT

6. 
   roc | Apr 26, 2009 07:17am | #26

   > off switch for the panelGreat to have if there are short people around who are not allowed to work in the shop unsupervised but may not listen well. Great to be sure EVERY THING is off when you leave the shop for the day also. See Philip's compressor fire thread if you think not.>This is a great site and a wonderful hobby/vocation!!!!!!!!Hey you are welcome. So often we respond and never hear back how it was taken or how it all turned out. Keep us in mind/don't be a stranger.rocGive me six hours to chop down a tree and I will spend the first four sharpening the axe. Abraham Lincoln ( 54° shaves )

7. 
   traveller2 | Apr 22, 2009 07:55pm | #18

   As soon as my Delta came out of the box, I replaced the stock motor with an honest to goodness Baldor 1.5 hp that an old plumber friend of mine found for me. I also replaced the motor pully with a two part adjustable sheeve that you can dial in different speeds.

8. 
   Rich14 | Apr 23, 2009 02:38am | #20

   Bill,

   I'm going to disagree with every message in this thread and encourage you to rethink this. DON'T get a bigger motor (yet!).

   I have to admit that we probably all subscribe to the "more horsepower is better" theory. But before you do anything at all, download the article at this link:

   http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworking/ToolGuide/ToolGuidePDF.aspx?id=24093

   Michael Fortune's advice about band saw set up and use is the best you'll ever read. I've referred almost everyone here to it for issues such as adjusting the saw and blade selection.

   But he also talks about the power needed. He says that 1/3 hp is all that's necessary to drive a properly-adjusted 14" for re-sawing 6" stock and 1/2 hp when adding a riser. I completely agree with him.

   Read the article first. You just might save yourself a LOT of time, effort and money.

   Rich

1. 
   roc | Apr 23, 2009 04:06am | #21

   >Michael Fortune's advice<Sure worth a try ! I am all for highly efficient well set up machines. I commute by bicycle every day and I am sure I am putting out less than half a horse. Gets me there and back though hills and all.rocGive me six hours to chop down a tree and I will spend the first four sharpening the axe. Abraham Lincoln ( 54° shaves )

2. 
   Don01 | Apr 25, 2009 02:07am | #22

   Rich,
   Good points. I have always followed Michael's 5 tips other than power, and now you have given me pause to review what I think I need as well.
   I have a 1 HP 14" offshore bandsaw. Most of my resawing has been with hardwoods - lyptus, tigerwood, kentucky coffetree, and teak. Last year I split 4 10ft lengths of 4/4 X 4" figured Kentucky Coffeetree. I did not think I would ever be finished.
   I recently installed the riser and a new fence. The motor upgrade is the last piece - read "was the last piece".
   My previous experience was that the saw did lug a bit with some of these woods - even at widths less than 6". I have yet to pop the breaker, so would assume that any lugging is from belt slipping not under power.
   I don't really know how fast I should be cutting, other than species like lyptus and coffeetree have some interesting resins which discolor quickly if not moving through the blade at a reasonable pace. I use the term discolor rather than burn.I am going to step back from this one myself and see if you and Michael are right.ThanksDon

9. 
   EdHarrow | Apr 26, 2009 05:56pm | #27

   McMaster-Carr is your friend!

   http://www.mcmaster.com/#about-electric-motors/=1m3brj

   Probably more than you want to know, LOL.  I think you'll want a 56H frame, but I'm not certain.  When I repowered mine (a pre WWII model) I went with a 220V 2 HP motor which, IIRC, I purchased from Hallor Electric - it's a Baldor motor.  Doing so probably complicated my life some, not certain it was worth doing for a 1/2 a horsepower gain.

   Whatever, get an enclosed, fan-cooled motor (TEFC), not an open frame.