Replies

1. 
   Henley | Apr 28, 2008 03:31pm | #1

   I have had good luck with "Waterlox".
   Spread it on with a lambs wool applicator generously, but
   slowly ( to ovoid bubbles).
   It takes several coats, and depends on what wood your
   going over.

2. 
   BruceS | Apr 28, 2008 04:11pm | #2

   Stand by for high seas and heavy rolls !  Tung oil would not be my first choice.  I just did an oak strip floor in my kitchen and used one coat of Nutmeg Watco, Just to give it a little "age" and to pop the grain.  Let it dry for a week and then top coated it with "Crystalac" water base lacquer.  I used the PolyOxide and it is holding up very well to Grandchildren and dog claws.  I put down 6 coats within 2 days and loved the almost no ODER and fast drying time.

   Work Safe,  Count to 10 when your done for the day !!

   Bruce S. 

    

3. 
   blewcrowe | Apr 28, 2008 05:13pm | #3

   Waterlox is a tung oil based finish. They make a gym type finish especially for flooring. I used it in my own home, and in previous homes. Holds up great. As someone said, a lambswool applicator on a stick. Fast and easy. Take a few coats. You need to allow a week or so of ventilation, too.

4. 
   SteveSchoene | Apr 28, 2008 05:57pm | #4

   You don't want pure tung oil.  Very little protection--it would get stained almost immediately in a kitchen.  The question is what look are you going for.  When you mention tung oil, I think of an "in-the-wood" finish with no film on the surface. 

   Better than a pure oil would be a mix of oil and varnish.  These you apply and wipe off the surface.  After several coats it will offer quite a bit more protection than oil alone, but would still require refreshing every few years, and the protection offered is still pretty weak compared to varnish. 

   Waterlox could be an OK choice but isn't an "in-the-wood" finish, it is varnish and creates a film on the surface.   It is NOT tung oil, it is not a mix of tung oil and anything, it is a compound--Varnish--created by a reaction among phenolic resin and tung oil.   It's a good varnish, and should be tough and moisture resistant . 

   It won't resist abrasion as much as good floor varnishes with polyurethane, but the difference isn't great. 

   I have also run across, but have no actual experience with, a relatively new product by Bona Kemi called Naturale which aims to give an almost untreated look with, they claim, the protection of Bona Traffic.  It's waterborne, and sold for professional application.  Hereis a link http://www.bona.com/upload/United%20States/Product%20Desc%20pdfs/Finishing/Bona%20Naturale.pdf  

    

5. 
   HowardAcheson | Apr 28, 2008 08:28pm | #5

   Let's start off by asking what you mean by "tung oil". True tung oil is not a good finish at all as Steve has said. It provides no water or water vapor protection, it has no abrasion resistance and must be reapplied every couple of months in a high traffic application.

   There are other products that are faux "tung oil finishes", that are really oil and varnish mixtures. Most often the oil is linseed oil and they contain no real tung oil at all. However, the varnish component makes them much better finishes than tung oil. But they too are not a good choice for a kitchen floor. They just are not protective and durable enough for that application.

   Waterlox is not tung oil. Waterlox is a brand name for a family of finishing products. One of their products is their Original Gloss and Original Satin. Both are a phenolic resin and tung oil varnish. Just like any varnish, the resin and oil are heated together until a new compound called varnish is formed. It's no longer tung oil.

   But, Waterlox Original products will make excellent floor finishes. In fact, their Original Gloss used to be named "Gym Floor Finish". Go to their website for more info about their products.

   Finally, in light of the above, do you really want to apply tung oil to your floor?

   Howie.........
1. 
   [email protected] | Apr 29, 2008 03:05pm | #6

   we bought reclaimed wood-a hardwood mix-what would you suggest?

1. 
   HowardAcheson | Apr 29, 2008 07:27pm | #7

   Well, I'm not a fan of wood floors in kitchens. They are just too much work to keep looking good.That said, there is nothing better than polyurethane for wooden floors. It's one of the two or three applications where polyurethane is appropriate.For a kitchen I would use an oil based poly and apply one thinned coat, sanded and then three to four full strength coats. For the best appearance, I would recommend stay off it totally for a week. Then you can walk on it in stocking feet for the next couple of weeks. Both oil based and waterborne dry in two steps. It takes 2-4 weeks for them to fully cure and harden.Howie.........

1. 
   Glaucon | Apr 30, 2008 09:26pm | #11

   <"Well, I'm not a fan of wood floors in kitchens">Actually, I really disagree. Wood is a very good choice for a kitchen. Consider the alternatives: Vinyl?- not as cheap as you might think (for a good grade), and does not hold up well, not repairable. Tile?- very hard underfoot and very unforgiving to the dropped plate, and chipped by the dropped cast iron skillet.Wood is more comfortable and warmer underfoot than tile. It is easier to renew every 5-7 years than is vinyl. It looks great, can be laid in endless patterns/types, never goes out of style... what's not to like???Glaucon

   If you don't think too good, then don't think too much...

1. 
   Gretchen | May 01, 2008 04:22pm | #12

   I disagree also. Our kitchen floor turned out to be pine 30 years ago when we took up the linoleum and had it finished. We have just had it redone (again--third time and a bit overdue)and it is very easy to keep looking just fine. It is semi-gloss, and cleans easily. I do think a satin finish gets dirtier quicker--something like holding onto the dust and dirt.Gretchen

6. 
   Henley | Apr 30, 2008 01:44am | #8

   Well I didn't foresee such a mixed reaction from such a
   basic post!

   Listen, first off Poly (in my humble opinion) is a terrible alternative. The stuff chips when you drop that cast iron pot.
   The maintenance is bad, Sand it clean and start over.

   Some of the more in depth finishes are just that and you will
   have varying results. Again recreating it next time might not go
   well.

   If your going with wood in the kitchen- Waterlox is easy to apply,
   Has a proven track record, and you can re coat it when the time comes.

   Posting this question on a furniture forum is asking for confusion,
   try asking over at Breaktime.

7. 
   cherryjohn | Apr 30, 2008 05:23am | #9

   Waterlox......used it.loved it.  Simple to apply ( lambs wool applicator). Ever need a touch upnot a problem.  Just wipe it on.  After using it I wouldnt use anything else ever again on wood floors

    

   Wicked Decent Woodworks

   (oldest woodworking shop in NH)

   Rochester NH

   " If the women dont find you handsome, they should at least find you handy........yessa!"

1. 
   [email protected] | Apr 30, 2008 04:40pm | #10

   Rochester huh? Now in Phila area but from Concord-Rochester has a great diner. I'm going with Waterlox, I think the gym version.