I am not sure why everyone goes for an 8″ jointer when it seems to me all the dimensioning can be done with a table saw, 12″planer, and 6″jointer. I would think that everyone would already have a planer and TS. While the textbook method is to first, face joint one face( which is why a wider jointer might be beneficial) and then the edge, what is wrong with planing both faces parallel with a 12″ planer, then squaring one edge with the 6″jointer, then ripping the other edge to width on the TS, which results in 4s?
I realize the longer bed on an 8″ jointer is beneficial, but I have a Powermatic 6″ and the bed is just about two inches shorter than most 8″ jointers.
I know I may be missing something here, what is it?
Replies
The facing cut across the jointer is to remove warp and twist and to flatten one face prior to the trip thru the planer.
The planer will make the board an even thickness but will not take out the twist or warp.
Note that it is not necessary to achieve total cleanup on the jointer.A reasonable bearing surface for the planing operation is all that is required. A jointer will not make a board an even thickness,and with the planer, twisted in,twisted out.
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Sail
Ditto what Pat just told you. The jointer removes cup, twist an bow to give one flat surface an edges. The planer then takes that flat side down and duplicates that flat side on the upper un-jointed side. If you put it through a planer warped in any way, it will come out that way; only thinner.
I refer the jointer-planer as a partner-relationship. The jointer squares the edges an one side. The planer then is capable of duplicating that flat side and giving you the thickness you require. That might mean several passes, depending on how much you take per pass an how thin you desire the stock when prepared.
An thanks to Pat, now you know... This a basically a mirror of what Pat said, but read these post several times till you completely understand. Then any questions, ask. It's very important.
BTW, even on s4s stock (surfaced 4 sides), what looks flat an square isn't always. Take a machinist square an check that stock sometimes. Most s4s is a bit off an that relates to slightly off-square. Sounds like a job for the jointer AN planer. ha..ha..
sarge..jt
Thanks for both of your comments; I understand exactly what you are saying. Now I begin to see why an 8" jointer is necesary. Thanks again.
Sailalex
That 6" Power-Matic you got ain't to be thrown in the trash. It has longer tables than most 6" jointers, which is a distinct advantage with longer stock. Always try for the longest table available if possible.
As stated, you got a great jointer. It is a slight advantage to have the 8" for width, but that is not a reason to rush out an purchase one. If you got 12" wide stock, take it to the TS an rip it to 6". Now you got stock you can work with the PM. Just glue it back up to get it back to where you need to go. I have a 6" Sunhill with 55" table. I would love a 8", but I find a way to get it done. You can too...
sarge..jt
Thanks Sarge. My PM is relatively new and I like it; the additional cost for the longer table made sense to me. Anyway, if one has a project that requires anything larger than 8" boards, say a 10" board requirement, it doesn't seem to make much difference whether you have a 6" or an 8". Thanks for your help.
It is not project size, but raw wood dimensions which pushed me to get an 8inch DJ-20. Most rough lumber is 6-8 inches(with most 7.5). This would result in alot of waste with a 6 inch jointer. You can rip the boards to rough project dimensions and the joint, planr the wood. But this doubles your work and your time.
I like to face joint, plane, joint one side and then rip the remaining side.
I also bought a 8" Delta for the same reasons Rocky mentioned. All the rough stock I buy is over 6". Were I differ from Rocky is that rough cut to length my stock, joint one face and side, rip to near finished width and then plane and joint the remaining side. Going about it this way maximizes the effectiveness of my jointers bed and reduces the amount of the shavings from my jointer and planer that would other wise fill my dust collection limited storage capacity.Scott C. Frankland
"This all could have been prevented if their parents had just used birth control"
Another reason to go with a combination planer/jointer. My Robland is 12" wide and allows face jointing those larger planks. With the morticer it is about the same money as comparable seperate machines, takes fare less space and the change over is about 20 seconds.
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