Replies

1. 
   TXJon | Dec 10, 2004 07:22pm | #1

   I have a  Ridgid 2424 (?).  I bought it about 4 years ago, it was my first stationary tool also.  I have no complaints.  It took about 6 hours to put together. 

   The newer 3650 looks even better.  The fence and dust collection look better, the table top is bevelled, and the miter slots are T'd.

   I'm pretty sure you won't get a better saw for $350. 

1. 
   stacker | Dec 11, 2004 01:44am | #2

   thanks TX. i went to home depot and they had a floor model put together it looked pretty good. i just bought it from my buddy, checking out assembly instructions now.can't wait to try it out. the roller base seemed to work really well, at least on that floor model.

1. 
   lowchin | Dec 13, 2004 06:29am | #3

   Hey Stacker Just wanted to let you know about a little flaw with the ts3650.  I just bought one and I do believe I am going to return it.  There seems to be an issue with the arbor and stacking a dado set on it.  Apparently when stacking the dado set there is an unevenness in the arbor.  It seems to have been milled wrong by the machinists.  So when the dado is created it is uneven.  You can check out the forums on the ridgid web site.  There is a lot of talk on that web site.  Just thought Id pass that along to you.

   later centaur76

1. 
   JohnWW | Dec 13, 2004 08:36pm | #4

   I was the author of the review in Fine Woodworking that gave the new Ridgid contractor's style saw high marks.  Although I used the saw extensively before I wrote the review, I failed to notice the problem that occurs when a dado set is installed on the saw. 

   The saw has a shoulder machined into its fixed flange that properly centers  a single saw blade, but the saw's arbor narrows down slightly right next to this shoulder which will cause the second blade in a dado set to run slightly out or true, creating a dado with an uneven bottom.  Additional dado blades will center up properly because the shaft comes back up to full size after the gap, which is about 1/8 inch wide.

   I have been in touch with Ridgid's engineers and expect that they will be correcting the problem and repairing saws already sold at no charge, but this will take time.  When I hear back from Ridgid I will post their response here on Knots.

   In the mean time, I've come up with a simple fix that will get the saw to work properly with a dado set.  Basically, I filled the necked down area of the arbor with epoxy and then used a file to dress down the epoxy as the arbor was spun by the saw's motor.

   Start out by thoroughly cleaning the area to be filled.  I used naphtha and a small brass brush followed by a second wipe down with naphtha on a paper towel. If you didn't get all the grease and oil off of the shaft it will show up on the towel and you'll know you need to keep cleaning.  I used naphtha because it evaporates in just a minute or two and doesn't attack plastics or paint, alcohol would also work.

   For epoxy, I used J-B Kwik Weld which sets up in just a few minutes and achieves full strength in four hours.  J-B weld is available in most hardware stores and at least some Home Depots.  If you can't find J-B brand, any epoxy meant for use on metal will probably work, as long as it isn't too thin when mixed.  J-B has just the right consistency, about like tooth paste. It is liquid enough to work into the rough spots on the arbor, but thick enough not to drip. 

   I applied the epoxy with a tooth pick, filling up the low area of the arbor and working the epoxy just slightly into the start of the threaded section of the arbor.  Use the epoxy to build up the low area until it was slightly higher than the threaded part of the arbor. Once the epoxy is in place, let it harden for at least a few hours before filing it down.

   To smooth the epoxy, I used a moderately coarse flat file to remove the bulk of the material and a fine file for the final touch up. The epoxy will clog the teeth of a file so you'll need a small metal brush to clean out the file's teeth. To protect the flange's face as you work, the files will need what are called safe edges. If you don't have a file with safe edges you can take an ordinary file and grind the teeth off of its edges to make it into a safe edge version.

   To file down the epoxy, start the saw and gently hold the coarse file against both the shaft and the face of the flange.  Move the file with a forward stroking motion to prevent the rapid clogging that would occur if you held the file still.  After a couple of forward strokes, stop the saw to check your progress and to clean out the file's teeth.  After a minute or two, and a dozen or so passes, you should have the epoxy down almost to the level of the shaft all of way around.  Now switch to the fine file to finish the job. You'll only need to use very light pressure on the files, so there is no risk of cutting into the shaft and reducing its diameter.  

   After repairing the saw we have here, I used a dado set to cut 10 feet of grooves into a maple plank.  When I removed the dado blades after completing the cut, the epoxy was, as I expected, still solid and unmarked.  I don't think there will be a problem with the epoxy wearing out, so this will work as a permanent fix if you don't want to hassle with getting the saw fixed under warranty.

   John White, Shop Manager, Fine Woodworking Magazine

1. 
   stacker | Dec 14, 2004 05:02am | #5

   thanks for the info i will try that fix hope it works.

2. 
   JohnWW | Dec 21, 2004 09:36pm | #8

   Ridgid contacted Fine Woodworking with this response to the problem with their table saw arbors.  We will be running their response and possibly the epoxy fix in an upcoming issue, but I wanted to make this information available now.

   "Unfortunately, some TS3650 arbor assemblies have incomplete threads which may cause problems when using a stacked dado. If a customer has such a saw, correct arbor assemblies are available from RIDGID¯ at no charge. A customer can elect to replace this assembly on his own or take it to an authorized service center for free replacement."

   John White, Shop manager

    

3. 
   WillGeorge | Dec 23, 2004 09:05pm | #9

   Thank you for the information. I just got this saw (wish I could afford better) but an happy with it. I never use a dado blade because I always use a router but the information was nice to see. In fact I was going to try my dado set on the saw after the holidays.

   Have a happy hoilday

4. 
   cak70 | Dec 30, 2004 09:36pm | #10

   John W

   Although you didn't create this problem with the Ridgid table saw I purchased one from Home Depot based solely on your recommendation.  I have been wanting a table saw for 15 years and just couldn't decide or have the money to buy one. But based on your unbelieveable high marks on this saw for the price I confidently bought it and yes I wanted to do dado work with it in the future.  Although Ridgid is the major problem you should have used dadoes in it as part of your testing.  I think you totally screwed up and should feel considerable  guilt.  I feel I am one of hundreds who bought this saw based on your recommendation.  Irresponsible journalism could be one word for it.  I should not have to put epoxy around the arbor of my saw.  I just bought it a week ago and was putting it together with enthusiam but now I will be somewhat depressed but will keep it.  I thought I had a gold mine based on your recommendation.  Be careful with your reviews in the future.  I guess I will not be doing as fine of woodworking with it as I thought.  Tony

5. 
   Dustmight | Dec 30, 2004 09:47pm | #11

   Tony - I don't disagree with your sentiment, but why not return.  There's several other choices that are even better IMO at roughly the same price point.

6. 
   JeffHeath | Dec 31, 2004 02:03am | #12

   Tony

   Don't you think you're being a little tough on John.  Read his post, they'll fix it for free.  That's FREE!!!!  As in, no cost to you!!  The guy is doing all he can to help you solve a small problem with the saw and his review, and you're ripping into him.  We're all here to try and help each other enjoy our hobbie or profession that much more.   Would you smash your head against a brick wall if you read in Easy Rider magazine that it really doesn't hurt.  JohnW has had a lot of great information to contribute to this site, and I don't want to see him getting pen-shy (or keyboard shy) in this instance because of irresponsible words from you.  I've got some machinery in my shop that cost thousands of dollars, and some of the things wrong with them can't be fixed with $5 of epoxy or a trip to the repair center for free.  Relax, and don't shoot the messenger!!

   JC

7. 
   BG | Dec 31, 2004 04:45am | #13

   JC,

   I could not agree with you more, JohnW has been, and will hopefully continue to be, a great resource to this website. 

   I feel for Tony also, especially after waiting 15 to years for a new TS.  Tony's got to remember that John did a comparasion of comparable TS...not a search for the best TS ever made.  Also, I have never seen a comparasion where dado blades or tennon jigs or aftermarket miter jigs were put on the various saws for comparasion.

   For thirty years my wife makes me check consumer reports before we buy something for the household.  Invariably when I get the new appliance home there is an aspect to its operation that bothers me...they never consider all the issues...     

8. 
   JeffHeath | Dec 31, 2004 05:50am | #14

   BG

   When I first started buying woodworking machines (tablesaw, planer, jointer, bandsaw, etc....) I remember never being extremely happy with every function of each tool.  With the Jets, Ridgids, Powermatics, and Delta's of the tool world, you get some good features, while dealing with other inadequacies.  In general, we usually get out the checkbook or credit card when we feel the most comfortable with one particular model.  Inevitably, after getting it home, together, and working a while, we discover the good and bad of every tool.  I have since traded every first purchase in each tool category that I ever made in for the old american cast iron industrial version, which gives me much more of the good.  I also realize that not everyone is going to go that route, either because of space, electrical, or financial reasons.  But, after feeling the short comings of each tool purchase, I don't ever remember wanting to rip into the person who's advice I had read about how nice the tool was.  Reviews are subjective, and one mans gold is anothers lead. 

   I've never seen a review of a table saw in any magazine even talk about jigs and dadoes, either.  Many contractor's saws and cabinet saws won't accept 1 inch dado cutters.  I use one all the time on my Oliver.  Powermatic 66's need to be modified and the base drilled into in order to accept a sliding table.  Should we crucify Lonnie Bird for stating, correctly so, that it is probably the nicest cabinet saw available.  (I think it was Lonnie, if not, sorry Lonnie.) 

   Bottom line, I just can't stand to see someone on this site ripping someone else for trying to lend a helping hand.  Especially when the shortcomings of the ridgid saw are so easily repairable, and John has gone out of his way, and still is, to get everybody the right information to correct the problem.  If Tony doesn't like the saw, he should take it back to home depot.  Their return policy is so liberal there that I see contractors taking advantage of them on tools they need for one job and then bringing them back for a full refund.  Now that truly is unfortunate!!

   JC

    

2. 
   stacker | Dec 14, 2004 05:04am | #6

   thanks C76 got a possible fix i will try.

1. 
   lowchin | Dec 14, 2004 06:13am | #7

   No problem hope everything works out.  Not sure if I am going to return the saw yet havent even run a board through it.  Hey John if you possibly could maybe provide some photos of your fix with the jb weld.  Would like to see it in more detail if possible. 

   later

   centaur76

2. 
   P3Driver | Dec 31, 2004 05:49pm | #15

   While I'm not very familiar with the Rigid table saw, I do know there have been some complaints about their products since they changed suppliers.  I believe Emerson Electric used to supply the equipment with the Rigid name plate on it.  Now everything is made in China.  Also, there is a posting on this site about the ts not taking a dado set with chippers.  Evidently, the arbor is not long enough to hold all the plates.  A dial-width dado set has to be used with the saw.

1. 
   Peter36 | Dec 31, 2004 05:59pm | #16

   It is long enough.

2. 
   Dustmight | Dec 31, 2004 11:22pm | #17

   The issue with the arbor on the TS3650 is b/c the diameter has a narrow spot causing one of the chippers to cut out of round.