I made my first finger-joint box project, an aromatic cedar knitting needle box 6 3/4″ x 15 1/4″ x 3″. Too wide to cut on my band saw, so I cut the top off on my table saw with blade set 1/8″ higher than the 3/8″ stock thickness.
I was careful to keep the box pressed firmly against the fence, but each pass – all 4 sides – the trailing end of the cut was about 1/64″ proud of the leading end of the cut on the adjacent side. Cuts are all square and glassy smooth.
I’m working with a Delta hybrid TS with 30″ T2 fence and Freud Industrial 50-tooth thin kerf blade (made in Italy). The blade is properly aligned with the miter slot, as measured with a micrometer from the same tooth at front and at back. Zero clearance insert is flush with the table at all 4 adjustment screws. fence is perpendicular to the table as measured with a machinists square.
I’d thought that the fence may not be perfectly aligned with the blade, but the distance from the leading edge of the blade should be the same for the end of the cut as for the beginning, especially with such soft wood as aromatic cedar.
Replies
When you rip a simple board does it come out parallel? If so, there shouldn't be any difference from your 4 rip cuts around the box. If not, then go back to adjusting your fence.
David Ring
http://www.touchwood.co.il/?id=1&lang=e
Bruce,
You say your blade is parallel to your miter slots and that your fence is perpendicular to the table. That presumes that your miter slots are prependicular to the table (probably are, but not a certainty.) Why not establish your fence parallel to the blade instead of perpendicular to the table?
However, that said, a fence that is slightly out of parallel to the blade will still leave a straight cut - it will just result in a wider kerf. That is, unless you are not moving the box all the way through the blade.
I'm not familiar with the T2 fence. It looks like a lighter duty Biesmeyer from the picture I found and has no rear rail. Is there any flex in it? In your effort to keep that box firm against the fence could the force be flexing the fence?
Are you otherwise getting good rips with regular stock? If so, there is something you are doing with the box cut that is changing things.
Good luck. You'll figure it out. I find getting a cup of coffee, staring at the table saw with the radio on and scratching my head helps. :-)
Let us know how you make out.
Frank
By fence perpendicular to the table, I mean the sides of the fence are perpendicular to table surface. I did align the fence to the miter slots, but since the blade is also aligned to the slots, all should be equal. Even so, as you indicated, if a piece is pushed clear through then a mis-aligned fence should result in a wider kerf, not a wider cut at one end of the piece.You said, "I'm not familiar with the T2 fence. It looks like a lighter duty Biesmeyer from the picture I found and has no rear rail. Is there any flex in it? In your effort to keep that box firm against the fence could the force be flexing the fence?"
The T2 is basically a poor man's Biesemeier and it does have a rear rail against which the lock clamps. Still, your suggestion of possible flexing might have merit if I hadn't locked it down tighly enough. I'll check that out.ThanksI've never miked a normal rip, but I presume the same would occur there.BruceT
I cannot remember what month the article was in but the author was explaining on the boxes he made he set the height a little less than the stock thickness and then finished the cut with a razor knife. It may be that by cutting completely through the material that at the end of the starting cut closed up causing your misalignment.
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