My stock is 15″ square and 3/4″ thick. I want to rip it into 1 1/2″ strips at 30 degrees. However, after making the first cut, the stock is left with a 30 degree bevel on the left edge. If I run the stock through the table saw with the same set up, the 1 1/2″ strip will then have a bevel on both edges. If I run the stock through with the bevel on the right side, the 1 1/2″ strip will be ok, but now the stock will have the bevel on both edges.
Is there a way to make these repeatable cuts without constantly changing the fence setup?
I have a SawStop 3 hp PC, left-tilting blade.
Replies
Cut bevel edges two strips wide and then rip them down the middle.
Work in from the edges of the board to minimize setups.
Thank you.
Don't forget to add in a little extra for the saw kerf...
While on the subject, different problem, while making 28" bevel rip cut I was nailed by the offcut, scrap. Using left tilt, fence on right, offcut on left. What am/or did I do wrong? The third cut was bloody and slightly larger. As such I will not use my NEW rip blade ever again. It's the only one I own ($100 plus). Input welcome. Thanks, Dave.
So, the free piece came back and hit you? It happens. Has nothing to do with the blade. Gotta keep an eye on them no matter what.
A couple of things to keep an eye on... First, the pieces need to stay flat on the table, especially after passing through the blade. Second, make sure the wood isn't pinching the blade somehow. Either the offcut can get canted, or the cut closes back up after passing the blade before the pieces completely separate. If the offcut is getting canted, work on trying to push it away from the line of the cut. If it's getting pinched, might need to get a riving knife or splitter set up.
Blade guard with anti-kickback pawls and/ or a splitter/ riving knife. If you are running a tablesaw without a safety system in place you are just waiting for your next "event".
If you got nailed by an offcut you should revisit your technique at the saw in terms of body position. Even just a featherboard on the saw might have taken the sting out.
These kickback events are almost impossible to prevent.
The nature of the cut makes devices to stop kickback ineffective.
It will be much less likely though if you make sure the stock has somewhere to go off to the side and is not trapped between the fence or stopblock and the blade.
A zero-clearance insert will also help.