Replies

1. 
   JohnWW | Sep 03, 2003 10:09pm | #1

   Carbide doesn't rust, but pitch build up on the teeth can look just like rust. 

   The safest way to remove pitch is with a detergent.  Soak the blade in one of the Simple Green or citrus oil type of cleaners for an hour or so and then scrub it with a stiff brush, one with brass or plastic rather than steel bristles.  If the blade is really gummed up, soak it over night. 

   You should be able to find the cleaners in a super market.  You don't need one of the specialty blade cleaners, many of them are nasty to work with and no more effective.

   John W.

2. 
   douglesso | Sep 04, 2003 08:05am | #2

   If you have major pitch build up on the teeth, oven cleaner will take it off in a matter of seconds. I read this in another thread somewhere. Be sure to do this in the sink, with gloves and plenty of running water. Don't let the blade sit in the stuff for too long. I'm not sure of the side effects, but I've used this technique probably 20 times with no problems.

1. 
   forestgirl | Sep 05, 2003 06:57pm | #5

   Oven cleaner is not recommended by at least one blade manufacturer (Freud, who has an informal rep here at Knots).  Simple Green works great, as would the citrus cleaners or 409.  No need to be putting lye on your blades (yes, I used to do it too, stopped when Charles posted his recommendation against it).  Plus, no need for gloves and such when using Simple Green.  My blade usually comes clean in about 5 minutes of soaking.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl   ;-)

1. 
   JohnWW | Sep 05, 2003 08:34pm | #7

   Forestgirl,

   I agree with you on this subject, but for the record, Forrest Saw Blades say that it is OK to use oven cleaner on their blades briefly, for no more than 20 minutes.  They do warn that oven cleaner will probably remove the manufacturer's paint markings and possibly make the steel take on a satin finish.  I wouldn't use oven cleaner on a Teflon coated blade for fear of damaging the coating.

   Personally I wouldn't ever use a lye based cleaner for anything, which is why I didn't recommend it in my first posting here.  Lye (sodium hydroxide) is one of the nastiest chemicals that is still commonly available to be purchased over the counter.  Lye will damage the skin readily and it is incredibly damaging to the eye and respiratory tract, far worse than strong acids.  It will also strongly react with aluminum and some other metals, it has no purpose in a shop that out weighs its risks.

   John W. 

1. 
   forestgirl | Sep 05, 2003 11:26pm | #8

   "...it has no purpose in a shop that out weighs its risks."  Amen!forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl   ;-)

3. 
   eokie | Sep 04, 2003 03:36pm | #3

   Had the very same thing happen to my WWII blade. Attribute it to cutting pressure-treated lumber, a fancy outdoor bench within a gazebo.

   Never was able to remove the problem despite several cleaning attempts. Have found that the use of a - brass - wire brush works reasonably well (with whatever liquid cleaner being used), the brass' softness effecting no possible damage to sharp edges.

4. 
   dirtstirrer | Sep 04, 2003 03:46pm | #4

   Eric,

   I bet naval jelly would take off rust, if you want to fool with chemicals.

   Steve

5. 
   RoyinMD | Sep 05, 2003 07:38pm | #6

   Like many here I switched to Simple Green about a year ago after my spray pitch cleaner ran out. Its not as fast as the nasty stuff but it works. Also helps to clean the blades often and not let them get too discusting. I keep older used blades around for doing any extensive work with PT or used wood.

   Enjoy, Roy