Hello. I’m new to this site, but I thought I would give all of its wisdom a shot. I recently started working in a shop and have had some trouble using the table saw. Mainly when I do crosscuts on it, I cannot get square pieces. I’m wondering if its the jig I’m using, or the saw.
The saw I’m using is an old Delta Unisaw. Does anyone know how to dial in a Unisaw, and what are your suggestions for a jig that works. Thanks for all the help-
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I just helped out a friend with his contractor saw today. I went over to help with a glass bead set up but found his saw doing the same as you describe.
The blade is not aligned with the miter ways. Unplug the machine, raise your blade high, make sure the blade is 90° to the table, take a combination square and place it in the miter slot at the front of the blade. Move the combination blade until it just kisses a tooth on the blade and lock it. Mark this tooth and move it to the back. Move the square to the rear of the blade and see if it is the same distance from the miter way. This has to be done very carefully, hold the square in the same position front and back. If there is a difference, you have to move the table top. There are four mounting bolts underneath, you can probably get in line by just loosening three bolts. Shift the table top until you get exact measurements with the square, front and back. Tighten the bolts and recheck. Reset your miter bar and check fence alignment. The rip fence can now be checked by measuring to the miter ways. The outfeed end should be just a whisker more than the front, 1/64"-1/32".
You can use many methods to make the measurement from the miter way to the blade tooth, you don't need fancy machinist tools, just be very precise. Use a good blade and check a few different teeth. The two miter ways should be parallel to each other, usually not a problem with Delta. Contractor saws are aligned by moving the trunion mounting yoke bolts and moving the yoke, not the table top.
Beat it to fit / Paint it to match
Just like to add one more thing. After the blade and fence are all parallel to the miter slots, make sure the jig is 90 degrees to the blade as well.
Dakin -
Your question begs more questions in response. First, as previously suggested, check the alignment of the miter slots with the blade. If this is the problem, the table adjustment isn't as simple on a cabinet saw as it is on a contractor's saw.
Given that the table is aligned with the blade, describe the "jig" you're using. Is it a sled affair that rides in the miter gauge slots? Cross cut a piece of 3" or so wide material, flip one piece of the cutoff over and lay the two along a known straightedge. Do the pieces meet squarely? If not, it's the jig that's at fault..
From Beautiful Skagit Co. Wa.
Dennis
Huh? "the table adjustment isn't as simple on a cabinet saw as it is on a contractor's saw. " You're ruining my fantasies, Dennis. I thought the cabinet saw was supposed to be way easier to adjust than a contractor saw. The ol' 2x4-and-hammer approach needed with a contractor saw is, shall we say, less than precise.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)Another proud member of the "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>)
I should probably leap before I look, Jamie. I was just going by what I (thought) I read somewhere. On the surface with the table simply mounted to the cabinet it might be easier .... I haven't tried. I prolly missunderstood something............
From Beautiful Skagit Co. Wa.
Dennis
[for Scott too] My understanding is that with a cabinet saw, you loosen the bolts that hold the table top to the saw base, and shift the top to line up the miter slots with the blade. That certainly sounds a heck of alot easier to do within small tolerances that what I have to do to my contractor saw, which is to loosen the trunnions and awkwardly tap the rear one with a block of wood and a hammer, which essentially moves the blade with respect to the table top. I have not found this to be an enjoyable task, to say the least.
I have no doubt that my old Jet saw can cut as precisely as a cabinet saw, but I dread the day it needs to be adjusted again.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)Another proud member of the "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>)
Some of the cabinet saws do require the top to be loosened and adjusted in the method you describe, and it is easier.I used my Jet contractor for seven years and never had to readjust the miter to the blade. I hope you never will, because as you say, they can be some work.The work we put into accuracy setup is well paid back in exceptional work output. The trick is to learn to enjoy the tuning and setup processes as a part of being one of the elite, exceptional craftpersons that we strive to become.Many woodworkers don't tune, adjust, or check accuracy much. If you do, you're at the top of the pack already. Enjoy it because your work will reflect that committment. thnxscottd.
For the most part, I do enjoy the "tuning process" and certainly enjoy the results thereof. The hassle with the Jet was a nightmare, because something went wrong with the connector bars and trunnions (old saw, probably dropped when the seller and helper put it in my van). It was a mess, and I ended up having to find a machine repair person to fix it. But when I got it back, it was absolutely dead on. And......I got a set of cast iron wings out of the deal, real cheap!
I whine some, because I really think the companies could do much better in their designs for these saws. Oh well, no biggie.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)Another proud member of the "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>)
I know you're just using pun, but to make clear to any newbies: The quality contractor saws (General, Delta, Jet, Powermatic; not craftsman, grizzly, or other bargain saws) with cast iron tables, at least the ones built in the last ten years, are every bit as accurate, if tuned up correctely, as a cabinet saw.
The process is almost identical, except your adjusting your trunion mounts that are bolted directly to the table top on the contractor saw; and on the cabinet saw you're adjusting the trunion mounts typically on a trunion support system, depending on your cabinet saw.The process is the same, you're aligning the trunion mounts, which hold and support the arbor bearings and mount the blade.I started on a contractor saw years ago building fine furniture and it was totally accurate, and held accuracy well. I've since moved up to a cabinet saw but gratefully remember the good service of that old saw on which I learned a great deal.
thnxscottd.
http://www.in-lineindustries.com/ Hello FG Look at this link and click prod. then see PALS I put one on a contractors saw and aligned it good. The pals holds the setting and is very accurate. I now can rip straight stock and hardly see blade marks at all. Its worth any price if you have had enough of being under your saw trying to align the ##%^ thing.. Bob
Hi Bob, yep I've known about the PALS for awhile. If (and I mean if) my saw goes out of alignment before I upgrade it, I'll probably install the PALS at the same time I adjust it. Hopefully, that circumstance will not come to pass. If I'm a good girl and start actually making some money with this woodworking bug, I should be able to afford a cabinet saw! forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)Another proud member of the "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>)
The old and new Unisaws are dam good saws.
What kind of Jig are you using? What are you cutting hardwood door panels?
Tune up on a Unisaw - http://files.owwm.com/PDF/FAQ/TableSawTune.pdf
This is a good cross cut sled whit a great way of getting it square with the slots in the saw top. http://www.tools-for-woodworking.com/slidingtable.pdf
Dakin, FIRST check your miter guage Is it square?
If not,true it up with a known true square
also attach a 1x4 x? to the miter guage
(There's two holes for screws on it's back
With the extender attached, start up the saw and cross cut off the two ends using BOTH Miter guage slots.
Now, glue a length of coarse sanding belt to the new wood extender (Taking care to cut and glue it just short of the two outer edges)
(Don't wanna let the blade cut into carborundem!)
With the now, square, wide ,miter guage, the workpiece won't 'creep' along the sanding belt and produce an out of square cut.
Oh yes; when cross cutting on any table saw, don't ride the workpiece along the rip fence That's why it's called a ripfence!
ITS ALSO MUCH SAFER as the short 'cut off' will bind between
the blade and fence and shoot back into your stomach.
The extender now is cut exactly to the blade's edge
Just pencil mark the point where you want to cut,
and line the mark up to the exact edge of the extender
and grasp the miter guage and workpiece snugly
and slice to your heart's content.
Steinmetz
Edited 1/16/2005 7:18 pm ET by steinmetz
Edited 1/16/2005 7:23 pm ET by steinmetz
Thanks to all for your advice. I will make some adjustments this week, and hope to spend my time on more creative efforts than checking every piece for squareness.
And Scott I totally agree with your analysis of those who are concerned with tuning their saws. The only reason I care is because I want to make my cabinets perfect everytime!
Thaks again,
Dakin
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