I’m wondering if I have a problem here.
I just installed about 600 sq. ft. of aspen tongue and groove ceiling. I wanted to get a coat of sealer on it before the drywall is installed. Before any finish went up, the ceiling was sanded evenly with 120 grit in a palm sander. Then, using full strength oil-based polyurethane to minimize drips, I had my helper apply the poly with a 1/2 inch knap roller. I followed directly behind him with a 4 inch china bristle brush and brushed more finish into the V-grooves between boards and tipped everything off. We went through about 1 2/3 gallons of finish which is consistent with coverage specs on the can.
The can also specifies that a minimum temperature of 50 degrees F must be maintained during application and drying. I have a min/max digital thermometer set up in the house so I monitored the temperature carefully. We applied the finish at 60 degrees and before heading home for the night, I turned on a small electic heater. This morning, I returned to the house to check on the temperature. It was 55 degrees, which was also the minimum overnight. Then I noticed that the knots in the wood had a cloudy white film over them. The rest of the wood looks fantastic. Obviously, the knots don’t absorb the finish the same as the rest of the wood. I checked with the paint store and was told that the finish just needs more drying time, but I thought I’d try for a second opinion here.
I’ve never had this experience before with any finish, so I’m a bit concerned. Anyone out there know what is going on and what I might need to do for a fix. BTW, I was planning on applying another coat when the rest of the trim is finished.
Replies
My experience is that you have a problem. Whenever I got a milky look from poly, it didn't straighten out on its own; I had to sand back to bare wood.
Too late now, but a good approach would have been to seal the wood with shellac (dewaxed shellac when using poly over it). Since the wood is on the ceiling, shellac would have been all the finish needed (it's not as durable as poly). Shellac is the best knot sealer I know of; works great on woods with a lot of tannins also.
If you have to "repair" the finish, sand the milky spots and use shellac on them. To belnd with the rest f the wood, you may have to use the poly over the shellac (dewaxed).
Paul
Yup, it don't sound too good. could be a scuff and recoat, or dewax shellac and recoat. I am guessing you used a satin oil base? If so, solids may have been not mixed enough, or too much moisture in the stock that you put up. Crank up the heat, and give it a few days before you freak out tho.
I think the knots bled resin and caused the milkiness. It isn't dry on the knots.Gretchen
This forum post is now archived. Commenting has been disabled