Replies

1. 
   SawdustSteve | Jan 24, 2008 05:29am | #1

   Hi Chris.... I'll assume you used the MINIMUM amount of shim stock to correct the original problem. If the blade is not going onto the saw, there are several things to check: First... is the blade the proper length? Most 14" BS's take a 93" blade. Add 12" (double the riser height) and you should have a 105" to 106" blade. Sometimes blades are cut to the minimum length. This plus the shim would account for the problem. Buy or borrow another blade of the proper length and see if it goes on properly. Did you release the tension before placing the new blade on the saw? Check to see that the nut for the tension bolt is properly seated in the upper wheel bracket. Due to the fact that you've removed the upper portion of the saw, it might have dislodged from its proper seating. Problem 2, the blade rubbing on the saw blade guard is due to the fact that you had to shim the upper assembly. There should be enough play within its mounting holes to allow for adjustment, otherwise you will have to do some careful and select hole expansion to cure the problem. All these adjustments are minor, just an inconvenience. Hope my suggestions help.
   SawdustSteve

1. 
   JohnWW | Jan 24, 2008 05:34am | #3

   Great minds seem to think alike.John W.

2. 
   flairwoodworks | Jan 24, 2008 06:21am | #4

   Thanks Steve and John for your prompt responses.  I had followed the proper procedures to make things work as well as possible.  I agree with everything you both said and am going to remove the shims and live with adjusting the guides whenever the upper guide is moved.  Now... back to woodworking. Chris @ flairwoodworks

    - Success is not the key to happines.  Happiness is the key to success.  If you love what you are doing, you will be successful. - Albert Schweitzer

1. 
   forestgirl | Jan 24, 2008 08:05am | #5

   Chris, there's an article "out there" somewhere that gives a solution to the errant blade-guard problem.  It may take my brain cells awhile to remember where I saw it (it was in a magazine, not online) but when I do I'll drop you a note.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-) 

2. 
   JohnWW | Jan 24, 2008 05:32am | #2

   Chris,

   Angling up the frame has increased the distance between the wheels just so that the blades are now too short. The blades may have been made a bit short also, blade welders aren't always careful in getting the blade lengths right, and they seem to err to the short side. Presumably you are dropping the upper wheel all the way down by backing off the tensioning bolt.

   The rear guard has oversized bolt holes in it to allow for a fair amount of movement to get the guard clear of the blade, but shimming the frame may have shifted the blade too far back for the adjustment range of the guard.

   Most of these saws have the upper guide post at least a bit misaligned with the blade, aligning the hole for the post square to the bottom face of the frame casting is technically a difficult bit of machining.

   One thing that can screw up the alignment is paint on the mating surfaces of the frame and the riser block. If those surfaces are painted the frame needs to be disassembled and the faces scraped clean.

   It is usually easier to adjust the guides each time you change the height rather than shimming the castings. In practice the upper guides just don't get moved up and down a lot in most shops.

   Hope this helps,
   John White