I’ve been experimenting with transtint dyes in a multi-layer finish for Arts & Crafts QSWO furniture. Sometimes it works great – ray flecks pop real nice and I get a very deep, rich finish.
Sometimes, though, it seems like the transtints don’t really take well. The Reddish Brown comes out looking vaguely brown with a hint of pink, the Honey Amber has the barest jaundice, and the Dark Mission Brown looks just looks grey.
Any ideas? The wood comes out pretty smooth from my Dewalt planer (especially on the ‘fine’ setting), so I don’t do much sanding – I doubt I’ve burnished the wood. I mix the transtints in small batches and use eyedroppers to stay at a consistent level.
I don’t always raise the grain first.
Maybe I don’t let it sit on the wood long enough.
I love it when it works, but I can’t get consistent results.
Suggestions?
Thank you!
Chris
Replies
Water soluble dyes don't work well on open grain species unless you soak it down and sand it in. Too much mess and work for me.
Beat it to fit / Paint it to match
Miserybob,
these are dyes, so I dont wipe them off.
I apply with a rag, wiping until the finish is even then let them dry.
This creates a repeatable coloration.
BTW, you can apply additional coats, and can remove some dye by washing with clear water. (assuming you used water as the base for your dye)
Mike
I use Transtint water-soluble dyes on all my QSWO A+C repros. Not set up to spray (yet). Results are great. I am always going for a deep, dark reddish-brown (toward the red end) to match a couple originals we have.
My sequence is sand to 180. Raise grain. Sand again. 2 very thin coats 1 lb-cut ultra-blond shellac - I wipe on with padding cloth, because I'm no good with a brush and shellac. Lite sanding with 3M 216u P600 paper (love this product).
Spray/mister bottle from hardware store filled with dye - go like heck and soak it, and wipe dry with tee-shirt cotton rags. Compressed air around joints to force out the dye that leaks out only when I leave the shop. You need trial-and error on timing of "wipe dry".
The problem with water-based dye is that its surface-tension properties will not let it get into the tiny "pockets" in the QSWO grain (not true of alcohol dye + sprayer). I use McCloskey Tungseal walnut stain to fill these grain pockets (but need to let the dye dry for a few days first). Slap it on, wipe it right off. The key ingredient is "asphaltum" which is exactly what it sounds like - tar. Must be alternate products, but I don't know them.
I picked this basic sequence up from the Homstead Finishing site 10 years ago (I've adjusted a bit over time). Went to look at that article just now, and he (Jeff Jewett) has changed it. Don't know why. Am sure the current version works well also - he certainly knows what he's doing.
You can color shellac with transtints and just apply it.Joe
Thanks, Spotcheck, I'll try your recipe. I had good luck with transtint, then stain, then shellac, then poly with the first project I tried, but lousy luck since!! I enjoy A & C projects, so I"m really looking to nail down a great finish.
The attached charging station had a great finish... I've been trying to duplicate it since!
Very nice design and finish.
What is the long handle made of?
What can you tell me about the inset tile?
Thanks!
The handle is ebonized hard maple. It's quebracho bark and rusty vinegar - looks beautiful, but is of limited utility since the reaction doesn't go very deep into the wood. Very easy to sand through, so you can only really use it on finished pieces.
The tile is a Motawi tile - I picked it up at a furniture store in Indiana. It was kind of a fallback after I had butchered a few attempts at inlay and carving! (maybe one of these days I"ll make it to Richard's shop for some inlay classes...)
If you haven't been to Motawi's site, they have some marvelous pieces: http://www.motawi.com/?module=Home
Chris
thnx. know them - used to live in Ann Arbor. Even have a close friend whose daughter worked there for a while. Hadn't thought about them in some years. appreciate the "duh - hello?" reminder.
lemme know how the finishing cycle works out for you.
Chris,
First, I am envious of your ability to differentiate between hues. Being somewhat color blind I wish I could "see" like you do.
I can think of two things that may cause the problem.
Not mixing the dye with distilled water. I have not worked with oak very often, but I have noticed it can take on odd discolorations when wetted with tap water.
The dye seeping back out of the pores. This is usually more of a problem with NGR dyes and those with an alcohol base. If you have ever gotten a drop of dye on a paper towel, you have seen how the colors separate, and the same thing might happen with the dye in the pores.
Rob Millard
http://www.americanfederalperiod.com
Robert, I've spent some time on your website and you don't have a single thing to be envious of me about! I think I'll be ordering some of your DVD's soon!
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