Replies

1. 
   eddiefromaustralia | Jan 18, 2009 05:36am | #1

   do a google search on "pouncing", dlb.

   It's how patterns are transferred.

   Then again, there's always Carbon paper as an alternative.

   Cheers,

   eddie

1. 
   fatboy2 | Jan 20, 2009 03:52am | #10

   The word is "poncing"

1. 
   eddiefromaustralia | Jan 20, 2009 04:08am | #11

   Hi FB,It's pronounced 'pooncing, (long double-O)' but the spelling is "pouncing." It's where the term 'pouncing about' originally came from, I believe.http://www.npg.org.uk/learning/digital/portraiture/investigating-drawing/pouncing.phpIt could be grammatical/regional differences at play, but I couldn't find anything relevant to transferring patterns through 'poncing' with a quick google search.Cheers,eddie

   Edited 1/20/2009 5:07 am by eddiefromAustralia

1. 
   fatboy2 | Jan 20, 2009 08:40pm | #14

   I stand corrected.
   Thanks
   Stef

2. 
   forestgirl | Jan 18, 2009 06:07am | #2

   How big is the drawing?  If it's under normal paper size (8.5" x 11"), I'd be inclined to put it on more substantial paper, spray the back with spray adhesive, and then adhere to the stock for cutting to the line.

   I suppose if it's bigger than that you could spray-adhere the tracing paper to brown roll paper, and then adhere that to the stock.

   forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-) 
   
1. 
   dlb | Jan 18, 2009 06:47pm | #6

   Thanks for the reply. The drawing is a full scale one of a cabriole leg 29+" in length. I have never heard of pouncing but I will do the research. The WW show is coming to Atlanta this weekend so I will be looking for a pouncer or do I need to be looking for a pouncee?

   Thanks again,

   dlb

   .

   Found this article which, although not an answer to my question, may be of some help to those interested.

   http://blog.woodworking-magazine.com/blog/My+First+Pair+Of+Pantyhose.aspx

   The undisciplined life is not worth examining.

   Edited 1/18/2009 11:00 am ET by dlb

1. 
   daverichards | Jan 19, 2009 03:04pm | #8

   I made a pounce years ago. It is a tennis ball on a stick. You pick up the chalk or I've used graphite on the ball and then bounce it on the pattern. Worked well and it was cheap.

1. 
   dlb | Jan 20, 2009 02:43am | #9

   Thanks,

   dlb

   .

    The undisciplined life is not worth examining.

2. 
   flairwoodworks | Jan 21, 2009 05:43am | #15

   Chalk in a bag works well too.Chris @ http://www.flairwoodwork.spaces.live.com(soon to be http://www.flairwoodworks.com)

    - Success is not the key to happines.  Happiness is the key to success.  If you love what you are doing, you will be successful. - Albert Schweitzer

1. 
   daverichards | Jan 21, 2009 06:05am | #16

   The tennis ball on the stick is more fun. :-)

2. 
   flairwoodworks | Jan 21, 2009 07:13am | #17

   Yes, I thought so.Chris @ http://www.flairwoodwork.spaces.live.com(soon to be http://www.flairwoodworks.com)

    - Success is not the key to happines.  Happiness is the key to success.  If you love what you are doing, you will be successful. - Albert Schweitzer

3. 
   flairwoodworks | Jan 18, 2009 06:09am | #3

   Eddie's got it right. A pounce wheel is a barbed wheel that you roll over your design and it perforates the paper and marks the wood. However, if your lines are straight, you can get by with a pin and connect the dots.

   Chris @ www.flairwoodwork.spaces.live.com
   (soon to be www.flairwoodworks.com)

    - Success is not the key to happines.  Happiness is the key to success.  If you love what you are doing, you will be successful. - Albert Schweitzer

4. 
   RJT | Jan 18, 2009 07:54am | #4

   I'd use forestgirls' suggestion but I would use a photocopy to preserve the original.

   I haven't used the pounce wheel in a long time, but as I recall it works best to do it over Styrofoam and use regular chalk line chalk.

1. 
   eddiefromaustralia | Jan 18, 2009 12:15pm | #5

   That's how it's done, RJT.The chalk line chalk works well (inside a pounce bag.) Pick a colour that contrasts with the timber.It's where the term 'pouncing about' comes from -> it's a slow process.Cheers,eddie

   Edited 1/18/2009 4:44 am by eddiefromAustralia

5. 
   WillGeorge | Jan 18, 2009 07:22pm | #7

   I use a pouncing wheel like in this link

   http://www.dickblick.com/products/grifhold-aluminum-pounce-wheels/

   I believe they are used in sewing also. Tracing patterns in cloth?

6. 
   dkellernc | Jan 20, 2009 07:45pm | #12

   There's a considerably easier way if you've a Kinko's nearby.  Just have them xerox the pattern full-size (preferably an inked pattern - pencil sometimes doesn't xerox too well).  Make sure you tell them to make a black/white print, not a grayscale print.  Then simply turn the copy over on your wood, and use an iron set on "medium" with no steam.  The plastic polymer/carbon black material that makes the lines on the paper will transfer to the wood.

1. 
   BCFred | Jan 21, 2009 09:50pm | #18

   I like the transfer idea using photocopying and I'm going to try it when I get a chance.  One concern pointed out to me is making sure that the outfit you are dealing with can deliver copies that are the same size as the pattern with acceptable accuracy.  This hasn't proven to be a problem for me yet.  The other thing is a suggestion I read that copying oversize and then reducing back to the size you want gives a slightly more substantial line and somewhat better transfer results.  I'm going to experiment with that to see what happens.  As I recall, it used to be that recopied stuff would give darker lines when using the old photocopiers.  So far, I have just glued the paper photocopies onto plywood, lexan or plexiglas I am using for templates and cut them out with a bandsaw.  Gluing the pattern on with rubber cement has worked fine so far and a straight photocopy with no fooling around has been just fine. 

1. 
   Cincinnati | Jan 22, 2009 05:43pm | #22

   Photocopying sometimes changes proportions and dimensions slightly. Verify it on a light table or by holding the copy and original together over a window and assure the lines coincide. Better yet, scan it with a vertical and horizontal reference dimension and print it out on a laser printer. Then you can print out as many as you desire. Laser printers and copiers work on the same toner technology. Inkjet prints will not transfer.Greg

   <!---->•••••••

   Exo 35:30-35<!---->

1. 
   BCFred | Jan 22, 2009 07:54pm | #23

   Scanning sounds like a great idea!  Wish I'd thought of it on my present project.  In fact, I'll bet the photocopying service I use could have done it and put the results on disk.  Heck, I can use my own scanner once I get it working again (temporary glitch turning out to be not so temporary).  Sadly, I have an inkjet printer, didn't know they wouldn't transfer or even that it could be an issue, one reason to consider a laser next time around maybe.   Thanks for the idea and the heads up.  fred

1. 
   Cincinnati | Jan 23, 2009 07:59pm | #26

   Our local copy shop can run copies from a file. Just make sure that 1" on your pattern is 1" on the print.Greg

   <!---->•••••••

   Exo 35:30-35<!---->

2. 
   dlb | Jan 25, 2009 05:35am | #27

   Thanks to everyone for some great ideas!

   dlb

   .

    The undisciplined life is not worth examining.

2. 
   dkellernc | Jan 23, 2009 07:23pm | #25

   One additional comment about the photocopying.  If you're working with hand drawings, you can add dimensional verification by getting an elcheapo plastic, thin, flexible ruler (sold at most office supply stores), and placing it next to your drawing on the photocopy glass.  You then have an easy way to ensure that the copy wasn't "scaled" without your knowledge.

   A CAD-generated drawing's even easier - just drop in a right-angle proofing scale next to the drawing when you print it.

   By the way - it is possible to transfer an ink-jet print using this method (iron-on), but you have to have a pigment-based inkjet printer, not a dye-based inkjet printer.  Most modern, "photo-realistic" inkjets that advertise that they can make "archival" prints use this technology.  I've also found that the iron has to be quite a bit hotter to make the transfer work, and the results still aren't as good as a photocopy.  For this reason, I usually just take the inkjet print to the local copy shop.

7. 
   knuts | Jan 20, 2009 08:34pm | #13

   I get large 2' X 3' sheets of tracing paper from craft stores like A. C. Moore. Basically non-smear carbon paper.

8. 
   TaunTonMacoute | Jan 21, 2009 11:39pm | #19

   Glue it down to the template material and cut your pattern. Scrape the paper off later or leave it and write notes on it.

   Draw the shape on Layout Bristol and you'll be left with something more substantial to glue down to your template stock. I have some chair part templates with the Bristol on them with plenty o' notes. Glue the Bristol shiny side down on the template. The matte side takes pencil lead better.

1. 
   dlb | Jan 22, 2009 04:19am | #20

   Great idea. Thanks!The undisciplined life is not worth examining.

1. 
   TaunTonMacoute | Jan 22, 2009 02:32pm | #21

   Have fun.

   Edited 1/22/2009 6:43 am ET by TaunTonMacoute

9. 
   colbyvillageworkshop | Jan 22, 2009 08:20pm | #24

   after you have traced the shape you want , turn the tracing paper over and with your pencil scribble over the shape that you have just traced at 90 degrees. once all the shape is penciled over turn it back face side up, place the paper onto the piece of wood you will be using then in pencil go over the shape you traced in the begining and hey presto there is your shape .  ian walton isle of man uk.