Replies

1. 
   HowardAcheson | Feb 16, 2009 07:48pm | #1

   Are they referring to real, 100% pure tung oil or one of the faux "Tung Oil Finishes"? They are two totally different finishes.

   A pure tung oil finish is more of a colorant than a protecturent. It provides not water or water vapor protection nor any abrasion resistance or durability. For most, a clear coat is necessary to gain any real protection and gloss.

   A "Tung Oil Finish" is an oil/varnish mixture of varnish and boiled linseed oil. Almost none contain any real tung oil. However, the varnish component will provide more protection and durability to the finish. An oil/varnish mixture finish is an in the wood finish that leaves the look and feel of the wood.

   Howie.........
1. 
   velomark | Feb 16, 2009 08:33pm | #3

   Thanks Howard. 

   I apparently bungled this in using MinWax Tung oil.  However, the finished product looks fine and at least I don't have to bother with the top coat.Cheers,

   Velo

1. 
   HowardAcheson | Feb 17, 2009 01:03am | #4

   What issue of Woodsmith has the item you are building?In fact, the Minwax Tung Oil Finish is not a wholly bad choice. It's an oil/varnish but it contains very little varnish. That's the reason I like to make my own. Equal parts of varnish, boiled linseed oil and mineral spirits makes a very nice finish with a degree of protection.Howie.........

1. 
   velomark | Feb 17, 2009 01:30am | #5

   I don't have the magazine with me but the following link has the TV cabinet that I used as the base for my project:

   http://www.plansnow.com/dn1152.html

   I added shelves on either side and above it to gain some more shelf space for our home.

   The Minwax seems to be adding the desired warmth to the wood and I am glad to save myself the trouble of applying the poly top coat.

   Thanks again.Cheers,

   Velo

2. 
   sinsin | Feb 17, 2009 02:41am | #6

   I'm with Howard for a finish- - - being equal parts of Varnish, BLO and mineral spirits (my preference for mineral spirits being turpentine) It's my finish of choice.

2. 
   SteveSchoene | Feb 16, 2009 08:32pm | #2

   As Howard says, the oil is for appearance, the varnish for protection.  By the way, there isn't much need for the varnish to be polyurethane.  Non-polyurethane varnishes, with either alkyd resin or phenolic resin will be clearer and rub out more nicely.  For the oil, boiled linseed oil is cheaper, dries a bit faster, and does the same thing as the 100% tung oil. 

   If you don't want the appearance of a varnish film finish, instead of using a pure oil, either tung or linseed, you will get the same "in-the-wood" look from an oil/varnish mix, but with better protection from water spotting.  Not as durable as varnish, but durable is a long way from being the only goal. 

1. 
   PCM | Feb 17, 2009 05:16pm | #7

   Steve,

   What brand(s) of non-poly varnish do you recommend?

   Can I substitute turpentine for mineral spirits/paint thinner? I really like the results BLO/turp wet sanding gives unfinished wood. A better appearance than BLO/min spirits.

   Thank you.

   Pete

1. 
   SteveSchoene | Feb 17, 2009 07:25pm | #8

   I don't think brand is the important factor.  The very fast drying varnishes--alkyd modified with vinyl toluene--won't be quite as protective as the slower drying, more like NC lacquer that the more convensional alkyd or phenolic resin varnish.  The soya oil/ alkyd varnishes are lighter toned and will yellow less over time, than the phenolic based varnishes, whether with linseed oil, or with tung oil.  Phenolic resin gives the toughest varnish, but the gap between that and the alkyd resin varnishes isn't so dramatic as to make the choice. 

   Turpentine will work fine, though the downside is that it is a little more toxic to work with than mineral spirits, so be more diligent with using protective gloves. 

1. 
   PCM | Feb 17, 2009 08:37pm | #9

   I am more interested in non-yellowing than quick drying for this "recipe", so If I am reading you right I want to use a soya oil/alkyd varnish vice phenolic. If I look at a can on the shelf, how do I determine it's contents?

   Will the product MSDFS sheet tell me?

   Polyurethane yellows more than I want, and I'm trying to find a substitute.

   Thank you again.

   Pete