Replies

1. 
   rwdare | Nov 20, 2009 07:58pm | #1

   First, build it without an add-on sole. Build the plane with a mouth the iron won't go through. Mark the radius on both ends of the plane and get it close with a #5 or #7. Finish the sole on a horizontal belt sander, rolling it side to side and then adjust the mouth.

   Dick

1. 
   joker | Nov 20, 2009 08:46pm | #3

   Hello Dick,

   I didn't even think of using a belt sander, great idea. I believe you are referring to models of planes when you say #5 or #7; all of mine a wooden ones that I have made so they don't have #'s, but I get your point.

   Thank you

    

2. 
   MikeHennessy | Nov 20, 2009 08:03pm | #2

   Round bottom, as is the arc is convex, side-to-side?

   I have one of those that I had made by Steve Knight. (Who, it seems, just sells kits now?) I used it to hollow out the backs of some FLW chair crest rails. I could post a pic later if ya want.

   How I would do it, absent access to a set of hollows: I'd start with a fairly long blank (mebee 2X final length) for the sole. Rough shape it with a jointer and finish it off with a rounded scraper blade in a jig to keep the workpiece moving straight over the blade, like a bit scratch stock. Or maybe use a long belt sander, or a strip of sandpaper on a flat surface a la scary sharp, to true it up. Use that now-rounded, but straight, blank to make your sole, whatever length you need.

   Mike Hennessy
   Pittsburgh, PA
   Everything fits, until you put glue on it.

1. 
   joker | Nov 20, 2009 08:53pm | #4

   You are correct, convex and rounded side to side. I would love to see a pic. I am probably thinking this is going to be more difficult than it really is but all of mine so far that I have made are just flat bottom and now I want to branch out a bit.

   My initial thoughts are similar to yours I think, using sand paper on a nice flat surface torefine the shape of the sole.

   Thanks for the input

1. 
   MikeHennessy | Nov 20, 2009 09:56pm | #5

   I'll see if I can dig mine out in the next day or so and post a pic.Mike HennessyPittsburgh, PAEverything fits, until you put glue on it.

2. 
   MikeHennessy | Nov 24, 2009 03:51pm | #8

   Sorry for the delay. (My shop is currently under reconstruction while I insulate the walls, and things are kinda burried.) Here's mine. The nub of a handle is not original -- I added it because I wanted a bit more height to push against during use. The body is about 10" long and is hollowed out and filled with lead for more mass -- the thing weighs in at about 2 lbs. Nice tool, seldom used, but one I'm glad to have in the stable when I need it.

   View Image

   I have no idea what the woods are. The body is Krenov-style construction, tho' the wedge is mounted classically instead of against a pin. It's light in color, like some kind of mahogany, with a reddish block of harder wood at the heel for tapping. The sole is a darker wood, about 1/4+" thick. It's mounted in two pieces, fore and aft of the mouth. The blade is probably just under 1/4" thick.Mike HennessyPittsburgh, PAEverything fits, until you put glue on it.

1. 
   joker | Nov 26, 2009 10:08pm | #12

   Awsome,

   Anyway to get a picture of the bottom? Please don't go to too much trouble if it is not convenient.

1. 
   MikeHennessy | Nov 27, 2009 10:49pm | #15

   Sure -- I hadn't been able to get to the shelf where it lives, so I hadn't even put it away yet.

   View Image

   View Image

   View Image

    Mike HennessyPittsburgh, PAEverything fits, until you put glue on it.

2. 
   joker | Nov 30, 2009 10:25pm | #16

   Thank you Mike,

   Now I can have a little bit of a visual of how it needs to turn out on the bottom and I think the dimensions of mine are probably going to be just about exactly like yours.

    

   Thanks again for the help

3. 
   Metod | Nov 21, 2009 04:25pm | #6

   joker,
   There was an article in FWW by Monroe Robinson: Round-Bottom Planes. I cannot find the date or issue number.
   Best wishes,
   Metod

1. 
   joker | Nov 26, 2009 10:02pm | #10

   Thanks for the reply; If you do happen to come across it or remember which one it is I would greatly appreciate it.

    

   Thanks again

1. 
   Metod | Nov 27, 2009 01:00am | #14

   joker,
   I have the article. It was from the days when the FWW format was larger. I have a practice of ripping out the articles of interest and tossing away the portions of magazine of no use to me. Larger format articles called for some trimming at the top and bottom of the pages, so that I could fit them into a 3-ring binder. Dumb me, I did not copy the issue # or the date.
   I can send you a scan in the PDF form, if you wish. Let me know.And a suggestion: Make a 'wooden' iron of exactly the same profile as your 'real' iron. Darken its bevel with a pencil or cover the edge with a narrow strip of masking tape, and set it into your plane's body to the same depth as you would the actual iron Make the crown tip flush (or a tad below) with the sole. Keep removing the material of the sole. Stop at the first hint of removing the pencil marks or scuffing the tape. I would create the lateral (across the width) curvature first, then proceed to the longitudinal curvature next, staying away from the mouth.
   Best wishes,
   Metod

   Edited 11/26/2009 5:00 pm ET by Metod

1. 
   joker | Nov 30, 2009 10:27pm | #17

   If you wouldn't mind sending them to me I would greatly appreciate it. My email is [email protected]

   I appreciate the help very much

2. 
   KiddervilleAcres | Dec 01, 2009 03:48am | #18

   Metod,

   It's from Issue #81 and starts on Page 80 from March/April '90.

   Regards,

   Bob @ Kidderville Acres

   A Woodworkers mind should be the sharpest tool in the shop!

   Edited 11/30/2009 7:51 pm ET by KiddervilleAcres

4. 
   derekcohen | Nov 22, 2009 01:29pm | #7

   Hi Joker

   Rule #1 (mine at least) ... make a (MDF/ply/hardboard) template of the curve you want so that you can check it at various points. The problem with a belt sander is that it takes away wood unevently if you apply pressure unevenly.

   I have rounded (curved) soles, first with a fore plane, then with a long smoother, finally with scrapers and/or sandpaper.

   Regards from Perth

   Derek

1. 
   joker | Nov 26, 2009 10:06pm | #11

   Hi Derek,

   Thanks for that bit of advice and I think it is one I will use when I make it. Do you think my initial thickness of about 3/8" would be correct? I want to end up with, after it has been rounded, with an 1/8" reveal where the sole meets the body of the plane.

   Thanks

5. 
   gdblake | Nov 24, 2009 09:38pm | #9

   Joker:

   When you get the sole close by following everybody else's advance you can true it up by using the plane to plow a furrow in a piece of straight, clear 2 x 4.  I would suggest using a batten to run the side of the plane against so that the furrow is straight.  Then retract the iron, line the furrow with a piece of 220 grit sandpaper, and use it as a form to finish sanding true the bottom of your plane.  A few final passes on 400 grit or finer paper should polish it up nicely.

   gdblake

1. 
   joker | Nov 26, 2009 10:11pm | #13

   Great advice, thank you. So far all of the great tid bits are similar to what I was considering about how to go about it; so at least I think I am on the right track.

   Thank you for the advice.