Replies

1. 
   jackplane | Apr 13, 2004 10:29pm | #1

   I shoot latex with an HVLP setup a lot. My guess is they supplied you with a multi-purpose tip that'll probably work fine. I thin the latex about 1:8 or thinner, it does flow easier with better coverage than not thinning with water.

     Set up a test board and fire away.It's good to remember that  good spraying doesn't depend so much on the product, as it does on matching the viscosity to the needle and aperture.

   
   

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   Edited 4/13/2004 3:35 pm ET by JACKPLANE

2. 
   TomT226 | Apr 14, 2004 02:13pm | #2

   I shoot a lot of SW Pro-classic acrylic, and usually thin it about 20% with water. I use a pressure pot and a conversion gun with a 2.2MM needle, and get exellent results.

   Be sure and use the Pro-classic primer (thinned 10%) as it will help the acrylic flow out and bond with the surface. Shoot one coat, sand, and shoot another coat, with 2-3 coats of finish over that. The primer will also help the paint be more durable on the edges of the doors.

   When trying new finishes, I like to tape a piece of brown construction paper over an old 3/0 door, stand it up, and use that to check coverage and atomization. The brown paper shows every drop of finish, and will help you set the pressure and fan setting exactly to what you need.

1. 
   Robbie | Apr 14, 2004 07:06pm | #3

   Tom:  Great information.  Much appreciated.  Not sure I understood the 2.2 number as all of the accuspray jargon is for .51 needle/nozzle and a #10 cap. 

   The idea of shooting on the brown craft paper is good also.  Will definitely do that. 

   Tom, I read through a search and several people (as well as Sherwin Williams) spoke about using Floetrol and a few even spoke about thinning with denatured alcohol instead of water.  Any experience of thoughts there? 

   Last, I am unfortunately painting some old cabinets that are oak and have to deal with the grain.  Wish I wasn't, but I do.  Any special thoughts on using ProClassic on oak?

   Thanks again.

   Bob

1. 
   TomT226 | Apr 14, 2004 08:04pm | #4

   Don't normally use flow out agents. Those are generally used when using latex unthinned from a airless gun or brush.

   I like to use a pressure feed when shooting any heavy bodied finish. Better atomization.

   The stuff about my setup was to differentiate between the conversion gun and your turbine setup. I've never used a turbine.

   I build cabinets out of a variety of wood, Oak included, and paint some. You may need more primer on the oak to fill in the open grain. I'd strip any lacquer or poly finish before priming. Sand to 150.

   Some finishers use Zissner for a primer. It will stick to most anything.

1. 
   Robbie | Apr 14, 2004 08:26pm | #5

   Thanks Tom. 

   I thoroughly sanded and then cleaned out grooves with compressed air.  I am using XIM for a first primer coat as it literally will stick to anything, including formica.  I will then hit it with a few coats of S-W primer, followed by the Pro-Classic.

   We'll see how this first experiment goes.  If needed, I can always get a pressure pot for my Accuspray and run it off of a separate compressor. 

2. 
   Paul_Snyder | Apr 15, 2004 02:35am | #6

   Bob,

   Here's a link to a metric to decimal conversion chart - Conversion Chart. In the chart, it shows that a "2.2" is equivalent to a ".087."

   The thicker coatings, like paint, need a larger needle/nozzle opening to spray well.Paul

1. 
   Robbie | Apr 15, 2004 05:01am | #7

   Wow.  That is huge.  A few people have reported spraying latex with .43 and the local Accuspray dealer recommended .51.  With you reference, perhaps I should move all the way to .061 and a #11 cap.

1. 
   Paul_Snyder | Apr 15, 2004 06:12am | #8

   I've sprayed latex/enamel with an .051 (1.3), but it required quite a bit of thinning (water) and was very slow going to get an even coat. It also required an extra coat (3 total) to build the color. I don't think I'd use anything smaller than a 1.5 (.059), but I'd rather go a little larger to speed things up.

   I only use pigmented lacquer for "paint" jobs now. It sprays the same as regular lacquer with the same set-up on the spray gun. In waterborne, I use the pigmented lacquer from Target Coatings.Paul

2. 
   Fingrs | Apr 15, 2004 06:41am | #9

   This is very useful information, folks.  I just bought an HVPL gun with a pressure pot.  The gun has a 1.4 tip, and I spend at least 10 minutes each day staring at it.

   My next project is some upper kitchen cabinets that will be painted.  I'm making them out of sandply and poplar.  Can someone please suggest a spray schedule that will allow me to deliver properly prepped and primed cabinets to the customer?  They will be painting them the final color. 

   Since I'm an idiot on this subject, please specify what prep and primer products you suggest...water-based is preferred.  Thanks!

3. 
   Robbie | Apr 15, 2004 07:53am | #10

   Paul:  I will give it a shot with the .61.  What about cap size.  Does #11 sound right to you when using the .61 needle?

   Bob

4. 
   Paul_Snyder | Apr 15, 2004 12:58pm | #11

   Bob,

   I'm not familiar with the aircaps for the spray gun you're using. There should be a chart somewhere in the literature that specifies the air consumption and viscosity associated with the needle/nozzle and aircap combinations for the gun that will give you a better idea than I could hazard a guess at.

   Paul

5. 
   Robbie | Apr 15, 2004 05:22pm | #12

   Thanks Paul.  The chart shows a #11 going with the .61 needle.    As my knowledge level in these areas is lacking and people on this forum seem to always have many "tricks" and "experience based ideas", I thought to ask.