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I am finishing the interior of a Victorian, 60 windows with the top light divided into 8 sections. Has anyone found a fast way to mask. I am going to spray stain and 2 coats Magnalac. Skip.
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Skip,
I can contribute only this: don't use the cheap masking tape, use the blue tape, I think it's Painter's Tape. Anyway, this will get your post back to the top, hopefully someone else can add something more helpful. I would be interested in tips on this also. GP.
*HUGE CRISIS! NEED HELP!! I am looking for the best stain and finish system for exterior mahogany windows for a restaurant. The architect has specified a product manufactured by "Sikens", which is suppose to be fantastic stuff. The problem I'm having is that this "Sikens" only comes in certain colors - none of which are consistent with the interior stain. Naturally, maintenance is a big factor and there seems to be a large variation between warranties and maintenance periods of different products. So, I guess my question is what is the best way to stain these windows? What about this spar varnish - does that have any color?
*I have worked in the graphics business for a number of year and we did some big murals using stuff called frisket. (It might have other names.) You paint it on and it drys in a few hours. You then cut it with a hobby knife and peel off where you want to paint. It leaves a sharp defined edge and it peels off very easy like a sheet of rubber.
*Thanks GP & Skunkman, This project has groups of lights that are the same size; (2 1/2x2 1/2, 2 1/2x10, 6x6 etc...) I am not looking forward to taping each one. Thanks for the input I will update. Skip
*Robert, Most (all) of the products I have used fail with time and no maintenance. Expectations are very good for spar in situations of limited exposure. Count on failure with full west or south exposure. How to deal with it is the point. Color comes first, I get the color right, then match the protective coats to the exposure. In situations of very harsh exposure Watco exterior oil works best for me.... Don't get me wrong it fails too, but the advantage is that there is no stripping layers of failed varnish when it comes time to renew. Wipe the dirt off and reapply the Watco. Most of the time the customer came handle this in Colorado every couple of years. This is just from where I stand hope it helps. There are lots of other ideas within, try a search of the site. Skip
*Have you tried a graphic supply house (the commercial type, not your local copy center)? They might have some sort of sticky backed mylar or something that they would cut to size for you. You might pay a bit for this but how much is your time worth for all of that masking?
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