Replies

1. 
   Andrew | Jan 29, 2003 08:56pm | #1

   A 2 hp dust collector will not have much suction after 35'-45' of tubing, probably not enough to make it useful. You will have much more suction if you could limit yourself to a much shorter run, say around 10'. you could do this by wheeling the dust collector form machine to machine, or you could get a bigger dust collector that could handle a longer run. If you do a search there is lots of information on setting up dust collection systems on this forum which may be helpful to you.

2. 
   RANGERP75R | Jan 29, 2003 09:28pm | #2

   FM

     

   Agree with Andrew. Also, the woven cloth bags that come on most DC's are useless. You need felt bags if you don't go to the paper type filters. Figure that in with the cost of Delta. I think around $75.

   Take a look at Penn-State as they come with the felt bags. Here you go: 

   http://www.pennstateind.com

   Good luck...

   sarge..jt

1. 
   ownersrep | Jan 30, 2003 01:25am | #4

   Agree with Sarge.  My DC (Jet) had the standard bags and was a great chip collector but sent the harmful dust right out into the air.  By the time I added a 1 micron bag, I could have had a larger PennState for less money.

   Jim

3. 
   robkutner | Jan 30, 2003 01:16am | #3

   I use a Jet 1 1/2HP, 1150 CFM DC that works great on tools up to 50' away, so I think your Grizzly should be fine, if it works as they say it will.  I've always been skeptical of Grizzly because of their prices...

   Anyhow, I have a Powermatic 64a open stand contractor's saw, DeWalt benchtop planer, and Jet 12" bandsaw connected with blastgates to my DC, and the system works great.  The planer is about 50' away from the DC, which has a cyclone can/lid sitting next to it, and almost everything gets sucked into it.  I love it!

   I might get better suction with a cabinet saw, as my 64a has an open back that probably costs me suction.  But that's why contractor's saws are cheaper than cabinet saws.  Oh well!

   Make sure and do your research about dust collection, and don't forget to ground your system, sealing wiring holes with silicone.  It's not that hard to do, and will help you sleep better if you don't have to worry about being blown out of your shop by a static electricity/sawdust explosion.

   Rob

1. 
   ownersrep | Jan 30, 2003 01:28am | #5

   Please check the threads and literature on grounding.  I sleep just fine (if I'd get out of the shop and go to bed) without messing with grounding.

   FYI,

   Jim

1. 
   robkutner | Jan 30, 2003 01:36am | #7

   Jim,

   I read 'em all, and decided to ground my system just in case. I've got too much to worry about with a new house, a full time job, and a wife with plans for an entryway table, two fancy bookcases, and an entertainment center.

   To each his own!

   Rob

4. 
   vacabby | Jan 30, 2003 01:35am | #6

   I have a Grizzly 1029 unit and am very pleased with it.   I however roll it around on its wheeled based and use a quick disconnect fitting to attach it to the equipment I need it on.   It has been a very reliable machine and works well.   I would purchase it again.

   jb

5. 
   DennisS | Jan 30, 2003 05:31am | #8

   Since this is a more or less general thread related to the subject of dust collection, I'll venture a side question if I may....

   Would I be correct in assuming that if one installs the dust collection system *outside* the shop, the issue of fine dust filtration becomes more or less moot. That is, assuming 1) you don't mind having fine dust accumulate around the outside of the shop and 2) if one deals with the aspect of having the heated air in the shop sucked out during the winter.

   As for (1), my new shop, when built, will be in a rural setting. The shop is well away from the house proper. The DC machine will be away from the shop windows and/or doors. And no, I don't care if the fine dust settles on and around the DC machine area.

   I'll find a way to deal with (2).

   I'd rather spend the money on air volume and velocity (read suction power) than high filtration stats.

   Thanks....

   ...........

   Dennis in Bellevue WA

   [email protected]

1. 
   TomMGTC | Jan 30, 2003 06:27am | #9

   I would agree with that assessment. Wish I could do that here but winters are too cold and summers are way too hot to move all my conditioned air outside.Tom

2. 
   Jeff | Jan 30, 2003 04:28pm | #10

   I came up with the same conclusion.

   But, here in Vermont, our winter months this year have made that idea

   no good.

   The DC pulls too much warm air out.

   My solution was a y connection with 2 gates.

   One side goes out back for the warm months, the other goes inside to

   a filter hung on the ceiling for the winter.

   Problem solved.

   Jeff

1. 
   PlaneWood | Jan 30, 2003 07:35pm | #12

   Jeff -

   My DC sets outside, but I live near Houston TX.  Were I to live further north, I would build an enclosed space for the DC with return air vents back into the shop.  Those vents would have to be well filtered and would need to be a large size.  That, in addition to having the better filtering bags.  Having my DC outside here allows me to use the cheaper bags.

   I suffer a little in the summer with this setup, but I rarely have the DC running for more than 30 minutes at a time.

   PlaneWood by Mike_in_KatyPlaneWood

3. 
   RANGERP75R | Jan 30, 2003 07:35pm | #11

   Dennis

      Also agree. The problem is as the other posters stated, pulling the heat out. Other than that...great thinking.

   sarge..jt

6. 
   famosrichit | Jan 30, 2003 10:20pm | #13

   Thanks for all of your input.  Looks like I have some more research to do.