Does anybody have any other methods in tapering the shaped legs on the Tilt Top Table?
thanks,
Dave
Does anybody have any other methods in tapering the shaped legs on the Tilt Top Table?
thanks,
Dave
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Replies
Hand plane. The jig shown in the article, plus a few others, are obviously geared for use in a limited production run. For only one or two tables a hand plane is faster than making the jigs.
Ben,
thanks for the reply. That's what I'm leaning towards, but how do you hold it down? It looks like the taper extends down the entire length of the leg, so clamps will probably be in the way?
Dave
Bench dogs.
thanks.
As already mentioned, bench dogs. If you don't have any you can do the taper while the board is still square and oversize. The oversized board will give you room for clamps. Then cut out the leg.
And I would also like to add that if you do use a bench dog to be extremely careful. You want to position it so the plane does not run into it as the plane runs down the sloping surface. A wooden bench dog is desirable.
Edited 11/18/2004 8:03 am ET by BenM
Edited 11/18/2004 8:03 am ET by BenM
I thought about that also. However, routing the dovetail might of been a problem? I will try the bench dog approach, just carefully. Odd shape to clamp down. I will probably create a jig to "pinch" the legs as the dogs close. Call me cautious...
Thanks for the reply,
Dave
Dave,
What I've done in past is to cut a hole the shape of the leg in a scrap piece of 1/2" plywood or some such. The leg is then captured in the recess for planing. You can butt the holder against a stop at the end of the bench, or hold it fast with clamps.
I like to cut the dovetail first, using the tablesaw.
Regards,
Ray
Dave,
It might be time to consider a Clamp'n Tool Guide which would allow you to clamp to the bench top and clamp the piece at the same time. I noticed the other day someone was using the Clamp'n Tool Guide in a jig for jointing on a planer.
I picked up some large wood screw clamps about a year ago....they are always handy for clamping whatever....
That's a good idea. Definitely going to try it. I've only cut the dovetail's on the router table. Never tried it on the table saw. Profile come out the same?
thanks,
Dave
"Profile come out the same?"
Yes, if you lean the blade over at the same angle!
I cut the leg dovetails first, then scribe around them on the bottom of the shaft. I cut three flats on the shaft before dovetailing the legs into it.
First, square lines down from the shaft end the width (or thickness) of the leg stock, then cut a flat for each leg between the lines. Begin by crosscutting several kerfs-- about 3/8" apart--then split the waste away. Finish up by paring to the lines with a sharp wide chisel. Check for a true surface with a 6" steel rule laid diagonally both ways, just as you would hand planing a board. Then lay out your dovetail, and transfer those lines down the center of the flat. Saw just inside the lines, and drill and chop out the waste. It's really easier than making up a router carriage to straddle the shaft, and then getting the set-up just right, unless you are building several tables at the same time. My opinion only.
Regards,
Ray
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