I’ve been a subscriber to Fine Homebuilding for anumber of years and enjoy the magazine immensely. I do a fair amount of ceramic floor tiling and I have a client who wants ceramic tile installed over a conventional wood stairs which had been covered with a vinyl inlaid flooring. Doing a wood steps is new to me and I wonder if anyone has enough experience doing these types of steps can give me some advice. I did plan to remove the vinyl and place hardibacker on the steps but is that enough to prevent flexing? The underlayment is three-quarter inch plywood. Thanks for any help you can send my way. By the way, after I finally visited enough of the departments, I decided this problem probably belongs in the Knots forum. Sorry!
badger1
Edited 9/27/2003 7:47:15 PM ET by Ron
Replies
Ron -- I can't answer all of your questions, but I have a comment or two, and I know where you can get excelent advice.
First, your client should think very carefully before changing their stairs (and you should think too....). If you add the hardibacker and the tile, you are raising the height of the steps that are being tiled. Assuming that the top floor (hallway?) and the bottom landing/floor are not being tiled, then the first step will be significantly taller than the rest. And the top step will be shorter.
That will cause a lot of people to trip. In addition, it probably will not meet the building code.
For better advice on specific tile and installation questions, go to
http://www.johnbridge.com/vbulletin/forumdisplay.php?forumid=1
The John Bridge tile forum is much like these Taunton forums for content -- lots of great advice from pro's -- and it is specific to the ceramic tile craft.
Thanks for the information. I was aware of the change in height of the steps, especially if I used half-inch hardi-backer combined with at least a quarter inch of tile. The change in step height would be significant. I also havn't figured out how to handle the edge of the steps (molding, bullnose, etc.) so this is a problem of several dimensions.
Ron
this is a problem of several dimensions.
I agree.......but I'll bet that the good folks over at the John Bridge forum have done this before, and have some good ideas.
Vast projects should not be founded on half vast ideas.
I can see several problems in doing these steps like give and flex of the treads . if i were building the steps i would use double stringers on the sides and middle. so there would minemal bpunce and i would glue two 3/4in layers of plywood risers and treads . and then i would screw everything and i would support them from belod with a post or wall assuming they would be against one wall. I would try to achive a very stiff set of stairs before think about any tile as the first thing that would break down is the grout , i can see it cracking where the risers meet the treads. and the nose of the treads ,if they were to giv at all you would have grout breaking up between the tiles . then the tiles breaking is another possiblity. but i think the grout is a strong possibility that needs to be addressed. good luck Dogboy
Thanks for the valuable input on the steps tiling. At this date, I still haven't begun the job and am looking at boosting the structural steps that exits before I think about tile. This is a trickey situation where I'm trying to match tile in the entry of a house. One option is to go with a deep groove vinyl look-alike that wouldn't require the extensive underpinnings. The owner is leaning that way rather than the extensive work required to make the subsurface rigid. I'm not so sure that the vinyl would hold up very well on steps.
Ron
I've seen this done on an open-tread staircase where the tiling contractor used a trowel layer of contact cement to bond the tiles onto the step, but I was back there a couple of years later and the grout was badly cracked because the treads were flexing, even though they were (nominal) 1-1/2in thick pine (actually finished to about 1-5/16in).
Scrit
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