Replies

1. 
   stantheman | Mar 04, 2009 04:34am | #1

   Tony Z

   use water based aniline dye.  Apply a coat, and then sand back.  Re apply, re sand.  That will darken the stripes while sanding back will increase the contrast.  Use clear lacquer or shellac for topcoat.  Oil just makes it all look duller to me. 

2. 
   SteveSchoene | Mar 04, 2009 04:50am | #2

   The aniline dye approach works well as described by stantheman.  (Though since I grew up in St.Louis that ONLY means Mr. Musial.)  You could also use a water clear waterborne acyrlic finish for the least possible darkening of the wood.  Oil based polyurethane varnish will likely darken most of all over time.  Linseed oil darkens a bit more than tung oil, but the differences are not great.  Initial thinning of the oil, or of danish oil makes little difference since the thinner doesn't participate in the final finish anyway, it just evaporates. 

   There is one benefit from the oil, that you don't get otherwise.  The oiling adds a bit of "translucence" in the grain that does increase the richness in the figure.  But, the price is that "darkening", most of which is the "wetting out" effect of the oil, and only a little from the color of the oil.  (You can prove this by seeing the effect of wetting the bare wood with water clear mineral spirits or naptha. )

   You should of course be aware that to a degree you are chasing a will o' the wisp since the maple will darken and yellow (or perhaps turn orange) over time just be being in light and air.  The cherry will be also turning darker and redder over time to an even greater extent.   

   
   

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   Edited 3/3/2009 8:52 pm ET by SteveSchoene

1. 
   stantheman | Mar 05, 2009 04:07am | #5

   modesty forbids me from saying how I got the nickname.

3. 
   roc | Mar 04, 2009 10:44am | #3

   Don't be afraid to search this FWW site. I know this is all colored but I think he may still have some good tips for you.

   http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworking/SkillsAndTechniques/SkillsAndTechniquesArticle.aspx?id=30136

   roc

   Give me six hours to chop down a tree and I will spend the first four sharpening the axe. Abraham Lincoln ( 54° shaves )

1. 
   Tony Z | Mar 04, 2009 04:32pm | #4

   To all that have answered so far, thanks!

   I have  several different aniline dyes that I will try, as well as only the water based top coat method.  I've spent a lot of time on this project and before I start the finishing, I will be doing extensive testing on scraps (and pictures of the completed & finished table will be posted).

   T.Z.

1. 
   roc | Mar 05, 2009 07:02am | #6

   >doing extensive testing on scraps <Smart man ! Sure paid off on my bubinga. Can be fun if you have the time and "get into it".>and pictures of the completed & finished table will be posted<Ooh yes please !rocGive me six hours to chop down a tree and I will spend the first four sharpening the axe. Abraham Lincoln ( 54° shaves )

4. 
   dgreen | Mar 05, 2009 10:22am | #7

   If you have a buffer don't discount the method of buffing with a good hard carnuba wax.

    

    

   ................................................

   Men will never be free until the last king is strangled with the entrails of the last priest.
   ~ Denis Diderot

   
1. 
   Tony Z | Mar 05, 2009 06:27pm | #8

   Can you expand on the buffer?  What you showed is what I'm after. 

   Did you just use wax and buff the wood?

   Thanks!

   T.Z.

1. 
   dgreen | Mar 05, 2009 06:59pm | #9

   Old 1/3 horse 1750 rpm motor with an arbor adapter and a muslin wheel. Sanded to 220 and then just buffed with a stick of carnuba wax. Figured maple polishes pretty quickly and looks and feels nice. 

    

   ................................................

   Men will never be free until the last king is strangled with the entrails of the last priest.~ Denis Diderot

1. 
   Tony Z | Mar 05, 2009 07:08pm | #10

   Thanks, and yes I do have a buffer to try:  actually the Beall system for my wood lathe and also have a stick of wax.  I can sample a piece and if it looks acceptable, then I will get or make a large buffer to do the drawers.

   Thanks,

   T.Z.

1. 
   SteveSchoene | Mar 05, 2009 09:44pm | #11

   Just remember that while wax and buffed finishes can be very attractive, they ofter almost zero protection, and have to be redone periodically.  That can be perfectly right for the situation, though most find that a wax only finish is suitable only for strictly decorative objects, whose toughest challenges are in periodic dustings. 

5. 
   danmart | Mar 06, 2009 02:42am | #12

   http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworking/Materials/MaterialsArticle.aspx?id=30182

   check out john condino as he puts some pop on the curly maple.

1. 
   Tony Z | Mar 06, 2009 04:01am | #13

   That's wild! 

   I tried some dye today--some brown that I had mixed for another project.  On the maple it looked a little too blah, after sanding and then coating with a water based urethane.  Yellow, orange and/or red may give the "pop" I'm after. 

   I've got to say, that plain old water based urethane (so far) is giving a finish closet to what I'm after.  That's why I'm thinking a yellow, orange or red may do it.

   Thanks,

   T.Z.