After fiddling around for awhile (and wrestling with my Scottish heritage regarding money), I took advantage of the Rockler sale and brought home their router table with the metal leg set. It seems to work well with my PC 690LR.
I know that this model isn’t “top of the line,” but what is the biggest knock on it? I’m not into raised panels or real heavy duty uses at the moment.
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Replies
"what is the biggest knock on it?" I don't have any statistics on it, but I've heard several reports of sagging.
The top of mine sagged. It might be an idea to stiffen it with some angle iron before it does that.
I've been toying with the idea of gluing up some Baltic plywood to the underside of the table top to make it more rigid. It looks as though adding angle iron would require some welds, and I want to make sure that the top of the leg set remains flat to the table.
Would you consider adding the plywood to be a workable solution?
Heartwood,
I'm unfamiliar with the Rockler table but i don't think the ply would do much. Norm's table top is about 1.5" with laminate on both sides.Perhaps you could construct a torsion box on the inderside of your table....hardwood strips cross linked with ply under that?
The table top appears to be a tad shy of 1 3/16" MDF laminated on both sides. Would 3/4 Baltic (or MDF) glued and screwed to the underside be feasible? I'm not sure exactly how I could accomplish the torsion box without significantly raising the height of the work surface.
If I had the time and the resources, I would love to build Norm's router table, but my pressing goal is to complete a few projects for My Young Bride. So, shoring up the Rockler will have to do for now.
Edited 7/26/2008 10:21 am ET by heartwould
heartwould,
As Bruce has suggested, shoring up with angle iron or maybe angle aluminum (available at hardware store) would replicate the internal supports that are inherent in Norm's design. However, all that said, with a 690 not being so heavy and if you don't store it in the table top when not in use, you'd probably go a long time before any sag would be an issue.
Thanks! The 690 is probably my "go to" router. I like that it has enough power to do at least most if not all of what I need to do on the table, yet is light enough to use hand held. My big PC is a real hoss, but it would be much more likely to make the table sag.
I have never done this. I would imagine that ply would help some as well, but I think just attaching some angle iron to the bottom of the top with some screws would be stiffer and easier.
Edited 7/27/2008 3:15 am ET by woodentrain
Take a look at the underside of the Kreg router table top. They installed two pieces of channel iron for anti sag support. They are only attached to the top and in no way connected to the legs. Two pieces of angle iron on either side of the router would accomplish the same thing.
Work Safe, Count to 10 when your done for the day !!
Bruce S.
Great idea! I've admired the Kreg for some time, but I couldn't bring myself to pay their price. Now I just have to go find some channel or angle iron and get to work.Thanks, Brother!
FWIW, I'd opt for a channel style support. By distributing the eventual stress across the two vertical members of the channel, you can get by with a lower, wider profile, thus interfering less with router access.
Ralph,Thanks! Do your think one channel on either side of the router (along the length rather than width of the table) would do it?
I'm not familiar with the construction of the base you bought with your's. Examining how the base supports the table top may give you ideas of how best to augment that support. You might, for example, opt for a double-crossbar H pattern, where the sides of the H are along the long dimension of the top, and the double crossbars are closer to the router-plate area. I'd use a combination of contact cement and screws (with fender washers if the channel is wide enough) to attach the channels to the underside of the top.[edit]Note that I bought just the table top, and support it on a large, now discontinued B&D WorkMate. Thus, mine has good support (about 4" wide) along the long dimension, parallel to the miter track. So, I'm thinking of adding channels on either side of the router plate, perpendicular to the miter track.
Edited 7/27/2008 1:28 pm ET by RalphBarker
I think I'm with you. My goal this week is to locate some channel and see how I can shore up the table top. You were way ahead of the game in using yours in conjunction with the BD table!
I learned early on that you can not always trust what you purchase. I agree with Ralph. Try and support the top. Never leave the router hanging in it. Pull the plate and assembly. I have a piece of Lexan cut to fit the opening, so things don't end up inside my cabinet.
Using something to fill the plate hole is another great idea that hadn't occurred to me! I truly appreciate all of the input!
I am also hoping to eventually wrap the metal leg set with some plywood for better dust collection and some storage. Any thoughts?
I used to spread a small tarp down on the floor, then place my router table in the middle. When I was done routing, I would gather the four corners of the saw dust laden tarp and dump it into a bag for recycling. I got the idea from watching the landscapers rake up leaves.
Spreading a tarp will be a great savings of both time and money over trying to box in the metal legs. Thanks!
A dust-collection box for a router table doesn't have to be fancy, and the time invested is well worth it with regard to your health. Below is what I put together in a midnight run a couple years ago. For more detailed pics, see this thread.
View Image forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
What a talent you have! This is a great approach toward solving a common problem. If My Young Bride and I weren't coming up on our 37th anniversary, I might be tempted to ask for your phone number or something. You go, Forestgirl!
FG,
Love the set up, so have a box to catch the stuff falling, and there is a DC port to it also. You have a dedicated suction at the fence and that about covers it.
Maybe others have the same issue, but what do you do when you cut a dado down the length of a board? Say a dado for drawer bottoms, the detrius does not fall down, it ejects down the cut out the just cut swath and spills on the floor. Of course a bunch of dust in the air. So how do you fix that issue? (yep you can, and I do use the TS and a dado blade). But other that a moving stand and open box collector at the edge with a hose I have not seen a solution, but maybe there is another way and I am obtuse?
Morgan
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The closed-channel routing problem is a sticky one for sure. I tend to do dados on the table saw, and when I've had to do them on the router table, I've opted for a dust mask. This mainly because I resist taking the time to make a holder for a hose that would sit nozzle-up, right at the edge of the table where the stock is exiting. If I ever get time to build some workstations this fall/winter, with many dados needed, I'll take the time!
What about this: with a spiral bit pulling the shavings out, and the appropriately sized insert around the bit (leaving a little space for dust to fall down), and a 4" hose instead of 2.5", wouldn't the dust collect pretty well?forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
I like the spiral cutter idea, that would definately pull the material down. The 4" hose might not help as much as you would think, there is a very small opening for the airflow around the throat and the opening cut into the stock from the bit. Restriction of air flow is the down fall of DC systems. Using the hose and catch box is about the best option right now. <!----><!----><!---->
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Hi Morgan and Forestgirl, let me jump in here and tell you what I do about the dado type chips. I have a router table with an enclosed compartment for the router, a door on the front. Easy to do. In the bottom of the compartment I have a dust port that I bought from Woodpecker that has a sliding gate and a fitting for a 4" hose. I run a fitting from that, that fits the 4" hose from my cyclone, and I have a tee in that line that fits the 2 1/2" hose to the fence. So I collect dust both from the fence behind the bit and also from the chamber that the router resides in. The sliding gate below allows me to fine tune how much I collect from below. After my recent addition of the cyclone system I find that I have enough suction that I actually have a vacuum effect holding the stock against the table top and no dust escaping into the air. It really works well. Yes some chips are bound to go through the motor, but some are pulled into the motor by the motor fan anyway. I have not noticed any problems so far. I use a PC 7518 in the table.
I do cut most dados on the TS but if I need them stopped the router table gets the nod.
Hope this helps.
Bruce"A man's got to know his limitations." Dirty Harry Calahan
Bruce that works. What size is your cyclone, a 5 hp unit. My problem may be the 1.5 Delta dust bag system does not generate enough flow. Got a camera? Thanks Morgan <!----><!----><!---->
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I'll have to take a picture tomorrow. Too tired tonight. I just sat down. The cyclone is a 2 1/2 hp Oneida with 13 or 14 drops, have to count again. The router table is at the far end of the run, actually the farthest, and the suction is teriffic. I start with 7" for a ways and then drop to 6" and then 5" and then 4" from the blast gate to the table. I routed some grooves that were stopped on both ends on a piece of plywood last week and it was actually hard to lift the plywood off the table without closing the blast gate. Now that is suction!
I'll take the pictures after work tomorrow.
Bruce"A man's got to know his limitations." Dirty Harry Calahan
AZMO,
That's interesting. I'll have to look at mine again.
I have run lots of molding through my router table with a Rouseau fence connected to my Delta 1½ HP DC 4" x 2¼" port on the fence and it literally grabs debris out of thin air and sucks it in. The run from the fence to the DC is only ~ 5' though.
Haven't run dados with this setup though, just molding(s) so far.
Regards,Bob @ Kidderville Acres
A Woodworkers mind should be the sharpest tool in the shop!
Bob,
The fence suction on mine works great also, mouldings, slots, edge details etc. I love using the router table for my drawer bottoms, easier to set up stops. Maybe I need a better box below the router.... Have some thougths going on another thread also about DC suction design, and impellers and such...
MY 1.5 Delta is connected to a 6" system and runs outside, maybe 40' of run. No differnce in suction from the original 4".
Morgan <!----><!----><!---->
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Morgan,
Curious as to how you connected 6" to the input on the Delta? Does the 4" Y go into a 6" on the DC from Delta? I never measured mine but thought it is 5" vs 6".
Eventually I plan on moving my Delta from my 2nd floor woodshop downstairs and running a duct down to it through the floor. It would be nice to use 6" for it.
Regards,Bob @ Kidderville Acres
A Woodworkers mind should be the sharpest tool in the shop!
I used 6"PVC drain line pipe for my system. We buy lots for my landscape business, so it is easy to snag some bits and leftovers. My system goes up and over the top of my garage and exits out the sidewall above the topplate and enters my storage shed. It then runs along and does 2 45 degree bends and the pipe drops down and over the intake. The inside dia is about a 1/2" to big for the 5" delta intake. A square cut on the pipe allows it to rest and make a seal on the intake. It also allows me to lift it up and swing it out of the way to clean the impellers of thin strips, plastic bags etc. A fixed connection was originally planed, but sometimes KISS just works better.
Morgan <!----><!----><!---->
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Finally got the photos. I use a Woodpeck PRL Lift and also have added an Incra Fence system as well as using a regular fence at times. You can see the Woodpeck dust chute in the bottom, the door, the hose coming from the fence area, and the connections to join the 2 1/2" hose and the 4" from the Cyclone. I also have a shot of the "Y" fitting from the cyclone ducting that goes to the router table and to a General Maxi Lathe that is not shown. Hope this helps to visualize what I have."A man's got to know his limitations." Dirty Harry Calahan
Wing Doc,
Thank-you for the photos, the visualization was just what I needed. I got busy this morning and finished up a new router table that attaches to my TS. I had built two before but kept using one sheet of mdf. They just flat out moved on me over time. This time it is two plys and a nice grey formica top to go on it. Rockler/jessem lift is really nice. I also made a nice new fence system with the scraps, and an old alumimum angle iron. Works great. One of the secrets i have learned in building several now is to use a bowed piece of wood underneath and close to the insert. This gives the table an ever so slight crown, maybe .001". Just enough to support it and eliminate a sag point.
In the past, and in every picture I have ever seen of a router table on a TS, there is no box under it. Having never had a dedictated table, I did not understand that the housing for the motor is actually a dust collector also, never paid attention I guess. So I made a box to house the motor and put on a 90 to connect to the DC system. Works like a charm, and you are right it practically sucks itself down! I have it mounted on a hinge, so I can swing it out of the way to remove the router motor and to open the TS motor cover. I will make a connection to the top port with a Y and gate. Cats meow for sure.
Thanks for your response and the time to send some images, you have made my shop about 10 times cleaner, always hated that dust!
Morgan <!----><!----><!---->
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Your TS mounted router table looks great. Simply and effective. I use 2 pieces of MDF also. Mine is glued and screwed and covered with laminate on both sides. I've had no problems with warping or sagging.
I know what you mean about a picture helping to visualize something. Some times the simplest of ideas elude us and all of a sudden... bam, the light clicks on and we understand. Most router tables have an enclosed area for the router to reside in, on at least 5 sides and some on all six, and I saw an article in, I believe, American Woodworker that had a door and a dust collection hose to the cavity. I had seen the adjustable Woodpeck gate and thought it would be a good idea to be able to regulate the amount of suction directed to the underside and put the two ideas together and made mine. I am thinking about making some changes to my top to better suit the Incra fence system but the dust collection and the storage areas that I have work fine. So it is on the back burner for right now.
I used to be a gunsmith and learned that we will never live long enough to learn everything on our own trial and error ways. We must learn from everyone that will help us with tips and kinks. We take their tips and ideas and put them together with what we know and maybe come up with an even better way to do the job. And then we pass that on to others to help them. A fellow by the name of Bob Brownell that started a gunsmith supply business put many of the "Tips and Kinks" together in a book and sold a bunch. That prompted even more sharing of ideas and Volume II was created. The business is still out there as Brownell's Inc. and they still have a lot of nice stuff for wood and metal working.
All of this is to say that most of us do not have many 100% original ideas or designs. They are all based on other peoples efforts before us. We modify and "improve" them, and sometimes it really is an improvement! When we do find something that works or looks go, pass it on! Surely someone out there will take that that thought and improve it further.
Good job!!!
Bruce"A man's got to know his limitations." Dirty Harry Calahan
Bruce, I concur with your thougths, if we stand on each shoulders we can reach a lot higher! Thanks for the boost and your appraisal of simple and effective. My motto is KISS, don't overthink when it's not required.
I do have another fence, that is 8" high also, a single layer of 3/4" with a MDO coating from Plum Creek. Works great also. Since this fence is one is new, they are a little long, but as you custom fit them to a blade opening, I cut off a bit as needed so it can be a zero tearout face. Then I make a new one.
It makes a great day to learn something, apply it and be satisfied.
Morgan <!----><!----><!---->
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Morgan,
Nice job. I may have missed it in another post. What kind of router do you have? If it's any type of plunge and you don't intend to use it except on the router table. I would pull out the springs. On my Hitachi MV12 the springs bound up from sawdust getting into the guide tubes and helped me bend the threaded rod used to lift the router. Woodpeckers replaced it free of charge and updated the router plate for free as well. They are in the same league of LV when it comes to customer service.
The other thing I did was seal the router base and the tubes (after the sawdust mishap) to keep sawdust from building up in the body. I try to suck as much sawdust as possible from the fence location over pulling it down into the box. When I last cleaned the router out I was amazed at all the dust that had build up in the router.
I also added a adjustable port on my router box. It actually helps with the dust collection. Len
"You cannot antagonize and influence at the same time. " J. S. Knox
Len, the Jessem lift just uses a Porter Cable router motor. I have to say it is pleasure to use, has a crank to adjust height from above the table in very small increments. The motor has a strong blower that keeps dust out. My first table years ago had a Makita plunge router in it, and it was a pain to adjust and use that way. Removing the springs would have been a smart idea!
I also like the the side suction, if you read back in the posts, this whole thing started by "how to collect dust from drawer dados" which a side suction can not do. Wingdoctor was kind enough to post some photos and show his two port system and balancing gate. That will todays quick project, I was just so amazed at how great this works, I wanted to post a thanks to him. Love it when the switch goes on!
Morgan <!----><!----><!---->
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Morgan,
I have almost the exact same setup as Wingdoctor. I didn't build my router table. I (so to speak) cobbled it together over a number of years. I also did a double pickup with balancing gate. It works well.
"how to collect dust from drawer dados"
You know...occasionally I get lost in my own little world. lol. I've played with different size inserts around the bits and found that a larger open area around the bit works better. You may want to add an adjustable vent at the opposite side of you dc pickup. I found that helps with the airflow and pickup. All I did was cut a hole with a hole saw and attach a disc I could swivel to adjust the opening.
"The motor has a strong blower that keeps dust out. "
I thought the same thing of mine. Since we have enclosed the router in a box the cooling air, even with the dc on, is dust laden. It gets back in the motor and deposits itself in all the nooks and crannies. I noticed it was getting harder to adjust the router lift. I took the lift out and disconnected the router. It was full of sawdust. You may not have the same problem but it's a note of precaution. Len
"You cannot antagonize and influence at the same time. " J. S. Knox
Len did you see the small hole at the bottom next to my DC intake? I had not finished adding the washer for it. I like you idea better of coming in low and accross from the motor intake. Might try a pvc pipe that ducts the fresh air right there from the bottom. Both of suffer the heat issue more than some, it was 102 in my garage today... heat build up is a factor.
My router lift has 4 different size inserts for it that just twist in and out, makes it very simple to adjust. The entire table and router lifts out easy and can be blown out with compressed air, something I do often since I burned up my first plunge router 25 years ago. Clean is mean!
Thanks for the solid thougths and advice.
Morgan <!----><!----><!---->
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Morgan,
That should be pretty effective controlling dust. It looks like you've hinged a door to access the router so that it swings upwards. Any particular reason why it's not hinged to the side or down?Chris @ http://www.flairwoodwork.spaces.live.com
- Success is not the key to happines. Happiness is the key to success. If you love what you are doing, you will be successful. - Albert Schweitzer
It is actually the entire box that hinges down and away from the motor housing of the TS. Otherwise I can't get inside the TS to pick up the nut and washer when I drop them ;.) Morgan <!----><!----><!---->
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Thanks for the info, Bruce. If I can ever get some concentrated time in the shop, I'm going to make a new cabinet for the Veritas top, so I'll keep your system in mind.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
Forestgirl,The photos of your great looking router table really intrigued me, particularly with the metal top. I really wasn't aware that Veritas made such an animal until your last post. (I've since checked it out on their website: http://www.veritastools.com/Products/Page.aspx?p=207)
You obviously like the Veritas top as you are thinking of using it in your next cabinet. Do you have the top hinged to your table? How do you access your table router to change bits or adjust height?
Interesting, I didn't know there was a Veritastools web site. Are you aware of Lee Valley, home base for Veritas? Rob Lee, I believe, is the name of the owner of this family business. Here are some links:
Home page for woodworking
Router tables page
"Insert Plate only" page
The table rests atop a stick frame that's a take-off on the bench-top stand they sell at Lee Valley. Here is a picture from when the frame and table were hinge-mounted off my old Jet table saw:View Image
The steel top itself is not hinged, it simply rests on the frame, with positioning stops underneath in the corners that keep it in place. I can't remember what Lee Valley recommends for these corner stops, but I bought big black rubber plugs and cut them to fit. The table has short bolts in the corners that hold these. When I had this set-up, I could slip those funky legs out, and drop the table down, top and all, and it would just hang there, out of the way.
I change bits from above the table. A nice feature with this top is how thin it is, which makes it easy to change bits from above. I go through the font door to change height, though someday I'll put a RouterRaizer in the mix. If I need access to the whole router for some reason, the top and router can be lifted out as one unit. Also, you can just tip the table up and put a prop-stick there to hold it up. Door off pic:View Image
Door is held on by rare earth magnets (in the door) which grab onto tiny shelf support pins (in the cabinet sides). These were items I had handy in a drawer somewhere (by that time, it was 1 a.m., LOL). Thusly:View Image View Image
The Veritas top is a great option, IMHO. Simple but solid, won't warp or sag, and any router can be clamped into it without complication, just swap 'em out! Very little fiddling was required to change out to the Freud router pictured above from the original PC690 pictured below:View Image
forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
Edited 7/31/2008 12:34 pm by forestgirl
Once again, kudos to you, Forestgirl!
Since you have previously used the 690 in your table, what did you find to be its strong/weak points. I really enjoy my 690, but I am longing for the Triton 2 1/4 for the ease of above table adjustments. My PC 7538 would probably provide all of the power I would ever need from a table mount, but it seems that it would be a bit unwieldy there. What prompted you to go with the Freud?
Sorry for not initially responding to your questions re: Veritas/Lee Valley. Yes, I've visited their site and would REALLY love to have a Veritas twin-screw end clamp for my "still in the planning stages" ultimate workbench. They do have some nice toys, don't they?
Edited 7/31/2008 1:51 pm ET by heartwould
I've been impressed with most of the Veritas designs that I've seen. There are a few "user-friendly" modifications they could make to their router fence, but I still really like it. Quite well made. Other than the router table and fence, I've bought mosty their little stuff -- saddle squares, straight edge, etc.
The Freud was an estate auction find, and we bought it before I really knew much of anything about routers and brands. It is a horse, though, and I really like it. The PC690 was very awkward to adjust, I like the fine knob-adjustment of the plunge router instead of this business of turning a motor in a casing. It would be tedious if I were doing production work, especially since I haven't taken the springs out, but with my renewed horse-trainer life, I don't do enough woodworking to worry about the time factor. Also, I like having the 690 free from the table for hand-held work, and I love the power of the Freud.
We'll look forward to the bench when you get around to it!forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
I'm with you on enjoying the 690 freehand. I'm also with you on not having nearly enough time to devote to woodworking. My younger sister owned a few POA's several years ago, but she's the only one in the family who ever really got into horses.
There is a big Freud at a local pawnshop that I've looked at a few times, but the rotating plunge stops seem to be out of alignment with the rod. Worst case scenario, the machine was dropped, but if anyone at the pawn shop knows the history they're not talking. So, I guess I'll stick with my big hoss for now when I need a plunge router with plenty of power.
Forestgirl,Slight veer OT. I have had one of those Veritas steelies for a long time. I got it after several fine trim pieces were ruining by sag. It became a pain having to work without a table around it so it "drifted away". It's in the back of the shop. Thinking of reactivating it. It is a stable, stable base.Question:
Have you ever used or thought of using any of the magswitch stuff on it? I have never liked the fence(because of its edge anchor system and thought of installing mags in it so it would ride on the table rather than over it. Also to use on jigs, etc on the table itself. That way I could drop the whole thing into a TS side table.Also thinking of removing several inches of steel in front so as to lay in a miter track. (Have but didn't like the Veritas right angle arm either)Thoughts?BB
Hi, BB. I just got my first Magswitch featherboard, and haven't used it yet, but I have used the GripTite featherboard on it. That's one of the things I like about the steel top, being able to use magnets.
A magnet in the fence is an interesting idea. Keep in mind it will scratch the table if you simply push the fence back and forth, so you'll need to decide if you (a) would live with the scratches or (b) could lift and move the large distances. So far, I've been fine with the edge clamps, but I don't do production work. What is it that bugs you about them? Oh, "drop into a TS side table." I see. You can mount it to a table saw wing and still have the edges stick out (see the pics I posted above).
I wonder too if there might be a way to make a push-to-close clamp work. Like the DeStaCo's (is that the right name?).
Personally, I have no use for a miter track in a router table. If I have a miter track, then I have to fuss around with making sure the fence is exactly parallel to it. I much prefer using a right-angle jig -- once it's 90* it's done, LOL. Doesn't have to be the Veritas, you can make your own. But that's just my opinion.
I wouldn't mess with the table 'twere it me. Too many people would buy a used one from you, and you could make a non-sag table that meets your needs. Once you cut that table top, it's worthless to anyone else.
Are you aware that Veritas now makes an insert plate based on their design? Click here for info.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
Personally, I have no use for a miter track in a router table. RIGHT ON! Girl!
No use at all unless the fence is aligned to it.. Not necessary on a router table..
On a router table the fence can be at any angle. DEPTH to the Bit Sort of like rocket science but NO eclectic orbits! A different matter!.. As far as degrees on a circle.....
forestgirl,Thanks for getting back to me so fast.I have another heavy duty no sag router operation, but I wanted to see about using the steely as an auxiliary unit. I was thinking of just the switches epoxied into the fence. As far as a track, I do a lot of coping work on rails/styles and prefer to use a right angle sled for backers rather than a backer board sled independent of the fence. It's a specific use type of thing. Always hated the GripTites for lack of adjustable finesse ( and scratches) on the TS but scratches wouldn't bother me on the steely. I have 3 of them sitting on top of the saw guard overarm.Wouldn't be able to use the side clamps as it would be in a rabbet but aside from that, they were always weak for me and would shift. Several of them broke. I may run 40 rails and just can't afford the insecurity of having the fence move. One of my very few problems with any of their stuff.
I have seen the insert but since I have this and DO like it's length, I'm thinking of ways to use it. Let us hear how that feather board works out. A little review from the island!Thanks againBB
"I have 3 of them sitting on top of the saw guard overarm." Funny, I store mine the same way. Don't use 'em much anymore, I think the MagTite's will work alot better. They do make a handy point fence on the band saw table, work on the jointer, and I've even used one on the drill press table when it was tilted drastically for some angled holes. But that one stiff "feather" has it's down-sides.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
Never thought about them on the band saw. Good Idea.
Thanks
ForestGirl,Almost a year ago I decided to build a new router table. Dust collection was one of my major requirements in this process and I incorporated a Shop Vac into the router table as it was to be located a ways from the main dust collector hookup. A channel was made across the back of the router table which allowed for multiple hoses to be used at the same time at three pickup points inside and on top of the table. The main router table top came from Peach Tree as did the fence.
The router chosen was a two and a quarter horse Triton; which
gave me bit changes above the table and height changes above the table; eliminating the need for a lift. As I have a 5 Hp shaper there was no need for a high horsepower router. The compartments in the cabinet are sound insulated and the exhaust for the vacuum exits out the back of the cabinet after passing through a padded muffler chamber. Attached are some pictures of the construction process. The top from Peach Tree is quite thick and I have detected NO sag at all.
It is an odd design; however, it has proven to be practical in use.Moksha
Very nice!
Beautiful! and what a great deal of thought you put into it. Thanks for taking the time to post those pics!forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
Are you at all concerned about the fine dust that router work produces, the dust that does the most damage to your lungs? As I'm fond of saying, "Think oxygen bottle." Using a tarp to deal with router-made debris seems rather shortsighted to me.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
Every hobby has its hazards. If you want, you could install a PPAS or buy an SCBA. He's using a table, the tarp was just for gross debris.
Keeping that pile of dust and shavings inside a box, to be sucked into a dust collector, is simply common sense, not an extreme procedure indulged in by the overly cautious. Using a table all by itself does nothing to cut down on the ambient dust, and IMHO not using some kind dust collection while routing is a dumb, self-destructive thing to do. I tried several different approaches to collecting at the fence alone, and soon realized I was wasting my time and energy.
If you want to accept the breathing of copious amounts of wood dust as a minor, easily and sensibly tolerated hazard, fine. Fill your lungs up, breathe as deeply as you can! Natural selection will take care of things in the long run, LOL.
forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
Currently, there is no room in my budget (nor in my small shop) for a real dust collection system, but I do have a couple of shop vacs that help a great deal whenever I remember to turn them on. (Right now the shop is in dire need of a good sweeping, or I could board some livestock on all of the sawdust I suppose).
I guess I got off on the wrong foot with you by responding to your first note to me.
I never condoned anything one way or the other. I neither agreed with you or disagreed with you. I use PPAS (positive pressure) in my finishing booth. I cut no treated. silica or high oil exotics inside my shop. I wear safety glasses and a dust mask. I use LVOC plywood where ever possible and the same goes for some finishes.
I also work with metals, acids and chemicals, non of which I take lightly at all. Some have the potential of killing you quicker than natural selection.
We either learn from the mistakes of others or from our own. Woodworking is a learning curve, hindsight is 20/20, and common sense the best tool of all. Sorry you took it the wrong way.
"Every hobby has its hazards. If you want, you could install a PPAS or buy an SCBA." followed by "Sorry you [me, FG] took it the wrong way." How else was I supposed to take it? It seemed clear to me that you feel letting a table-mounted router spew onto the floor is an acceptable, if not admirable, technique. The "every activity has it's hazards" schpiel is most often offered by people who see some particular safety precaution as over-the-top. I simply disagree in this instance, and felt another point of view was important for the OP to consider.
"We either learn from the mistakes of others or from our own." And a significant number of woodworkers have learned the hard way that breathing copious amounts of fine dust can harm you, from the minor aggravation of sinus infections or general rhinitis, to the extreme penalty of emphesema. (Don't know about lung cancer, perhaps that too.)
If any member reading this post would like some first-hand observations and detailed information, click here to read Bill Pentz's introduction at his dust collection site.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
Somebody posted about it sagging. Maybe? But I do not use 3 HP routers... Never needed one for the way I work. AND I use some, but not many, large bits. Everything I do is with light passes.. As many as it takes...
I have one old Rockler table, Flat as the day I got it.. Fence is a bit chewed up but that is MY fault! No better than my MDF tables BUT no worse either! OK.. so maybe a bit better because of the laminate surface...
Way before the Rockler "garage sale" that brought the price down to my level, I looked and looked at their router table. Rigged up with the bigger routers in what seems to be the common effort to have a low cost shaper in the shop, I can imagine how the table just might sag enough to have a negative impact on the work. Your approach would certainly minimize the possibility of sagging.
I've mentioned that my choice of router to install in the Rockler table is the PC 690. Like you, my "little" router has proven to be equal to all of the demands that I have placed on it.
To be on the safe side, I am still in search of some channel to reinforce the top. Unfortunately, my dear mother went from the ER to being admitted to a hospital this afternoon, so my search is currently on hold.
I am still in search of some channel to reinforce the top. Unfortunately, my dear mother went from the ER to being admitted to a hospital this afternoon, so my search is currently on hold.
MOTHERS of course come first!
Never got along with my Mother but I think she is still a really COOL Lady!
She had very hard times... Lost my Dad (1940 or so) as I did my wife (19?? How much is 1960 and 27 years of her being around in marriage?).. I met her WAY before then.. Like in kindergarden) Somehow we grew closer after I realized that..
I just glue on cleats to the bottom of the table.. NO hardware!
Never had a table warp or twist.
Thanks for that! My Mom doesn't want to burden anyone, so she waits until she is in dire condition before she says anything. In recent years her hospital stays are becoming more and more frequent.
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