Replies

1. 
   dgreen | Jan 20, 2009 03:12am | #1

   I thought the manuals method of determining blade tension was very good.

   Page 27, steps 1 through 8.

   The numbers on the tension gauge are for future reference when using a similar blade.

   In case the manual you have is different than the one I read here is a link to download it.

   As machine manuals go I thought this one was first class.

    

    

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   Men will never be free until the last king is strangled with the entrails of the last priest.
   ~ Denis Diderot

1. 
   aaronpetersen | Jan 20, 2009 03:56am | #3

   DGreen,

   I do remember that process, but I was hoping someone had figured out that a 1/2" blade shoudl be at 7, for example. If I remember correctly, the tension scale on many machines is incremented in blade width, simplifying the process. Here, you have to figure out where each blade should be set. It's no problem, I was just hoping someone had a good rule of thumb that would get me started.

   Aaron

1. 
   dgreen | Jan 20, 2009 04:30am | #4

   I have found the gauges marked in blade widths nearly worthless, I was impressed that Grizzly gave you a method of actually properly tensioning any blade you put on the saw. If they were ever accurate, ageing of the spring quickly renders gauges marked in blade width useless. 

   If you want a good cut you will have to figure out the correct tension for each blade whether they marked the width on the gauge or not.

   Congratulations on getting a nice saw. 

    

   ................................................

   Men will never be free until the last king is strangled with the entrails of the last priest.~ Denis Diderot

1. 
   user-87215 | Jan 22, 2009 05:36am | #5

   Aaron,  I am with you on the tension issue.  Otherwise, I love the saw, but it says to tension it by starting somewhere from 4  to 6 ( odd that there isn't even a set starting point ) then release by 1/4 turns until you see a flutter, then increase to eliminate the flutter.  From what I have read elsewhere, the flutter has to do with the harmonics of the saw and the blade and isn't a true indication of tension.  Fo what is worth, I did sample cuts in the same type of stock and changed the tension from 3 to 10 in between and ran 2 samples at each number and didn't notice any real difference in the appearance of the wood - so now I set it in the 5 range and leave it that way. 

1. 
   aaronpetersen | Jan 22, 2009 08:25pm | #6

   Barry,

   I played around with the saw the other night and found that I don't need much tension. I cut a clean piece of veneer 2-2.5/64ths in some poplar using a 1/2" 3TPI blade with it set on 1. I didn't get any flutter on the blade until it was well under 1, but didn't dare go any looser. I figure the lower the better as long as the cut is satisfactory. This will reduce stress on the blade and minimize frame deflection.

   Aaron

2. 
   user-87215 | Jan 23, 2009 04:38am | #7

   Aaron, I just got a 1/2 blade the other day and haven't messed with it yet. If it will work at 1 that is great.

2. 
   bones | Jan 20, 2009 03:34am | #2

   I have the 5013 (not the x2 it was not out then).  I use suffolk timberwolfe blades and use the flutter tecnique that has worked since I had it.   I can reccomend it highly.  Put the blade on.  When you turn it on (with the guides or rollers open so it can move freely, it will either flutter (if too loose) or not.  If it flutters (you will know), tighten slowly till the flutter dissapears.  Once you have done this slowly back off the tension 1/4 turn at a time till it just begins to flutter and stop.  Tighten 1/4 turn and your done.  Works like a charm.  Now that was totally confusing so here's the link to their version

   http://www.suffolkmachinery.com/six_rules.asp

   BTW their blades are great and resonable.

   Government's view of the economy could be summed up in a few short phrases:
   If it moves, tax it. If it keeps moving, regulate it.
   And if it stops moving, subsidize it.