I’m going to finish a walnut shelf with BLO and shellac. Can I use a home made tack cloth, (varnish & BLO) or a store bought one to eliminate the dust before finishing? I’ve read that tack cloths leave behind a residue that bollocks up water based finishes. Does the same thing happen with oil and shellac?
What about micro fiber cloth? What do I ask for when I go to the fabric store?
Thanks,
Fred
Replies
Just use a cloth with some mineral spirits. 100% cotton. OR the paper shop towels.
I'll go with Gretchen on this. While a tack cloth probably wouldn't have an adverse effect on the shellac why have them around. They offer no real advantages.
I use a grey/gray 3M pad to polish off any thing unwanted.
If you want to use a tack cloth, I frequently use the store bought variety and never had the problem you refer to. Wipe lightly tho'.
Mike Hennessy
Pittsburgh, PA
Everything fits, until you put glue on it.
Agree with Mike - I've never had an issue with store-bought.
I also use Min spirits - works fine. Tends to be whatever is handiest.
If it is not shellac, I'll also use DA - esp on bare wood - not as noxious as Min Spirits, dries instantly.
Just a rambling thought here.....
Home made tack cloths should not be made with varnish and BLO, because both will impart an amber color, and both will tend to seal the surface.
Instead, go to a rather good music store, and ask for a lump of bow rosin -- the sticky stuff that violin players put on the horsehair of the bow.
Put the lump in a jar or turpentine (or paint thinner/mineral spirits) to dissolve for a few days.
Dampen a rag with that liquid, and you'll have a great tack cloth.
I won't be laughing at the lies when I'm gone,
And I can't question how or when or why when I'm gone;
I can't live proud enough to die when I'm gone,
So I guess I'll have to do it while I'm here. (Phil Ochs)
FWIW, other than BLO's (a drying oil) color, home made tack cloths mixed with violin rosin/spirits is the same as putting regular varnish on a cloth. Rosin + spirts = varnish. If BLO's color is a problem there are lighter colored drying oils commonly used in making varnish such as Poppyseed oil - no yellow but slower drying.I wouldn't use it as a finish as it's more fragile than BLO but it's fine for a tacker. I've seen filtered walnut oil the color of water. (most isn't but it can be had)Bow rosin's primary ingredient is from conifer resins, solid Pine resin being predominant but sometimes mixed with others, I.e., Amber (fossilized resin) and Copal (plant resin). Any of these resins mixed with spirits will yield varnish.
A drying agent is needed, otherwise the tac would never dry. To keep the tac cloth viable and not let the drying agent set, it should be stored in baggies or some other air tight container until needed. Commercial tack clothes dry rather quickly , once removed from their sealed pouch, although (and I use them infrequently) I have a whole bunch, new and old,stored together in a 2 Quart ziplock. Some of these are over 4 years old -- opened, and still tacky.BB
As already said, there is no need of a specific tack cloth. Store bought ones frequently are made with items that actually can contaminate the surface. Home made ones pick up contaminates and deposit or spread the contaminates.
The best is to just lightly dampen a rag with mineral spirits. If it leaves the surface wet or visibly wet, you have used too much mineral spirits. Just a quick, light wipe before applying your final finish will pick up any errant dust. If using waterborne finishes, dampen your cloth with water.
Finally most dust that ends up on a finish comes from the finisher's clothes or from dust floating in the air. Both get on the surface after the finish is applied. It's not there before or when you are finishing. The procedure I use is to finish all my sanding prior to the last coat and then carefully vacuum off the item and everything in the area. Then turn on your air cleaner and leave the area for a couple of hours. Change your cloths and carefully go back into the finishing area without stirring up the dust. Carefully apply the final coat and again get out of the area for 5-6 hours.
Never had an issue with a store bought tack cloth however, I tried a microfibre cloth on some counters I was working on a few weeks ago and am sold on them. I bought a bundle of 25 from BJ's for like $16 and use them all the time now. I just take them out side and give them a good shake when I'm finished.
Often in error but NEVER in doubt!
Your milage may differ.. I rub down any of my finishes. Usually Shellac or Oil, with the green and gray 3M pads. For Lub, I use the original finish I used.
I've used ready made tack rags for many years without problems between coats of almost all finishes. I have however always avoided using them with water based finishes because of those finishes' intolerance to contaminants. I use water based finishes rarely, but if I've felt the need to wipe down between coats I've always found a water damp rag works fine.
About ten years ago that got me thinking; why not use the same method between coats of any film forming finish? I haven't used a shop purchased, or home made tack rag since-- just a fine cloth that's damp with water, and no problems to report. Slainte.
richardjonesfurniture.com
Thanks for the replys everyone.
Last night I usesd a soft paint brush and my dust collector to vacuum the pieces. Then I took them into my finishing room, (The kitchen table...) and wiped them down with a cloth wetted with mineral spirits. There was quite a bit walnut colored dust on the white cloth. I then wiped the pieces with a microfiber cloth, just a little more dust. Finally, I gave a quick once over with my clean, dry hand.
After oiling the walnut looks great!! Tonight is shellac night.
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