Replies

1. 
   Ricks503 | Jun 02, 2005 09:57pm | #1

   if you use a thin kerf splitter, as the wood passes the blade, it still has that little wiggle room if reaction sets in to catch on the back end of the blade and cause kickback.  That is why you will see thin kerf and regualr kerf splitters

    

    

   1 - measure the board twice, 2 - cut it once, 3 - measure the space where it is supposed to go        4 - get a new board and go back to step 1
2. 
   DougF | Jun 03, 2005 09:13pm | #2

   The splitter should be minimally as tall as the wood being cut.  I've noticed that when it is not there seems to be more friction than when it is extended higher than the thickness of the piece being ripped. 

3. 
   WillGeorge | Jun 04, 2005 02:51am | #3

   or is penetration of the kerf by a substantial fraction of the total thickness sufficient?

   LOL... I thought I was on a XXX place...

   I think a small pin will do... I think anything that keeps the wood away from the blade will do.. But I never had kick back cept fer my old 12" Craftsman Radial Arm Saw!

   Gee it was nasty!

4. 
   Handrubbed | Jun 04, 2005 04:11am | #4

   The Merlin splitter is great and needs no tools to remove or reinstall.  Worth every penny and is available for thin kerf blades (like Forrest).

1. 
   JeffreyS | Jun 18, 2005 10:02am | #8

   Does anyone know if the Merlin splitter works on a Powermatic 63 contractors saw (the predecesor to the current model)? Also am I correct in remembering it can work with thin curf blades?

   thanks

5. 
   Jimma | Jun 04, 2005 09:08pm | #5

   I tend to agree that the Merlin Splitter is the probably the best aftermarket splitter, but the price is pretty steep (over $100 as I recall). What I've discovered, however, is a very inexpensive one that serves most of my needs -- the MJ Splitter made by Micro Jig and sold in catalogs and Woodcraft, etc. You asked about height. This little system (it has two sizes of plug-in plastic inserts that fit into a zero-clearance table saw insert) can be set for a thin kerf or normal 1/8 inch blade and also allows for different blade-to-fence setups simply by switching the splitters around. The major benefit, and why I was attracted to it in the first place, lets you easily plug and unplug the splitters so you can switch to through or shallow cuts without replacing the table saw insert. (Plus it's only about $15.) I don't think it would prevent kickback at the highest blade heights where reaction wood could pinch the top of a blade at two or more inches above the table, but for me that would only be an occasional problem since most of my ripping is 8/4 or under. The downside is you have to use their jig on a zero-clearance insert (you'll need your own zero-clearance insert)) to set it up for use, but it's all supplied with drill bit and clear instructions. The downside of the Merlin is you have to be sure you get the one that fits your saw and then you have to drill some holes in the trunion to mount it -- a lot more work. I'd recommend you give the MJ Splitter a chance since it's so cheap to start with. (I have no connection with the company.) Check it out at microjig.com.

1. 
   DougF | Jun 17, 2005 05:29pm | #6

   I don't know what your experience is with the MJ splitter but I have a lot of problems with it working stock that is 5/4 or more.  The top of the bvoard tends to pinch in pull the splitter out.  Granted, this is infrrequent but happens more that I would like.  for 4/4 and less, it workes really well.

1. 
   Jimma | Jun 21, 2005 12:30am | #11

   (Sorry for the delay. Been away for a few days.)You may be right about ripping thicker stock, but I haven't had the experience. I recently ripped some 5/4 cypress and didn't have any difficulty using the MJ Splitter. However, I did chew up one of the splitters when I pulled a twisted board back to clear the kerf and the splitter came back with it right into the blade. I guess the splitter got pinched and came out of the mounting holes.The company replaced it free along with a mini-warning about doing such a thing. Still, most of my work doesn't involve thick pieces and the splitter works fine for that. I use the factory splitter (PM-66) for heavier jobs and save my zero-clearance insert for kiln-dried dimensioned lumber.

6. 
   MatthewSchenker | Jun 17, 2005 05:48pm | #7

   Samson,
   I've wondered about this as well, and went through loads of options with my table saw. In the end, I just decided I was going to use the stock splitter. I know people knock them, but if they are aligned properly they do their job.

7. 
   jazzdogg | Jun 18, 2005 07:16pm | #9

   Samson,

   I make new throat plate blanks in small batches, waiting to cut blade slots until they are ready to be used - what this means is that most of my throat plates provide zero-clearance -  I usually don't worry about making dado throat plates zero-clearance.

   When I cut the blade slot, I extend the cut to behind the blade, and glue in a splitter that's the same thickness as the blade & resulting kerf; the height of the splitter is admittedly arbitrary, but they usually extend at least 3/4" above the surface of the throat plate. I usually make splitters out of hardwood scrap with the grain oriented vertically, or masonite - whatever is at hand.

   The location of the splitter behind the blade is determined by the height at which I normally run the blade; I typically don't orient them relative to a fully-elevated blade because, in normal use, there would be a larger-than-necessary gap between the back of the blade and the leading edge of the splitter. When it is necessary to raise the blade fully, the blade cuts into the splitter, widening the gap and shortening the splitter- I set these throat plates aside for those times when I need to rip thick stock, and don't use them at all when ripping thins because the likelihood of kickback is already high when ripping thin, floaty, materials.

   Since throat plates, splitters, push sticks, and the like are made from scrap, the cost is nil. I can see paying for a manufactured riving knife, but have dificulty justifying a factory-made throat plate, splitter, or, for that matter, push stick.

   If the splitter is too narrow, the stock can collide with the back of the blade, leading to burn & chatter at best, and kickback at worst. If the splitter is too thick, the work tends to bind between the splitter and the rip fence.

   Hope this helps,

   -Jazzdogg-

   Whether you think you can, or you think you can't, you're right.

1. 
   Samson | Jun 20, 2005 04:21pm | #10

   All good information. Thanks!