Replies

1. 
   douglesso | Sep 29, 2003 08:54am | #1

   I had a problem similar to this once. I removed most of the rust with a commercial cleaner made for the purpose and steel wool. That cleared up most of it. I used a solid sanding block and wet sanded with oil to really clean it up. I occasionally spray it with another commerical product to protect it from rust. You can get all of this stuff at woodcraft. Also, several of the sandpaper websites, like mirka.com explain the different products involved in sanding iron or steel.

2. 
   forestgirl | Sep 29, 2003 06:24pm | #2

   AEW, there's a range of options, but I'd stay away from anything that might etch the metal if you can (it can make the table pretty ugly).  WD40 and wet/dry sandpaper work great (or you can use mineral oil).  If the rust is bad enough that it seems it'll take forever to sand by hand, you can use a sander.  I cleaned my used steel router-table top using my ROS and WD40.  The paper didn't last a long time, for sure, but my hands were happier.  You can also use steel wool, synthetic or otherwise, but it will probably take a lot longer.  If you use regular steel wool, you'd want to clean off the table reaaaalllll good so that the steel wool doesn't rust.

   Go easy on the WD40 -- it's just for lubrication, and work your way evenly across the top so you don't sand it unevenly.

   forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl   ;-)

3. 
   Steinmetz | Sep 29, 2003 09:49pm | #3

   AEW, kerocene and wet or dry silicon carbide paper (medium and fine grits)

   After each session, wipe every thing dry even the sand paper and start over again. If you glue the paper to a 4"x4" block and round off the sharp edges,you're guarenteed a flat finish.

   Don't sand down in the miter guage grooves. Steel wool is better and will get into the tight corners easier.  W D tends to seep into the porus cast iron and later will wick out on some expensive wood that you intend to stain .NO, NO and NO!  Stein.

4. 
   ChippingWood | Sep 30, 2003 12:55am | #4

   I didn't have much in the way of serious rust but I gave this stuff a try after I saw it on the FW web page...

   http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworking/pages/w00145_10.asp

   I'm pretty impressed with it- even cleaned off some old rust "stains" from a badly timed garage door opening. The surface it leaves behind is really slick. I like it a lot better than anything else I've used so far.

5. 
   robkelly1 | Sep 30, 2003 02:10am | #5

   The problem with heavy rust and a chemical cleaner is that the cleaner doesn't remove the unrusted metal and so you get pits. I had the same problem, and used a belt sander with a 400 grit belt, light pressure, just the weight of the sander, move it around continually, all over the top. Vacuum intermittently. Wear a mask if you do this indoors. When 99% of the rust is gone, finish with steel wool( I use OOO) and Trewax. You have to wax it pretty often for the 1st year or so, because the sander removes what seems to be a semiprotective oxide coating leaving the bare cast iron exposed.

6. 
   BobLang | Sep 30, 2003 03:40pm | #6

   I've had good luck using "Liquid Wrench", scrubbed in with a scotch brite. Follow that with a dusting of talc based baby powder. That soaks up the oil, seals the pores of the cast iron, and leaves the top slick. Smells kind of funny though.

   Bob Lang

   http://www.craftsmanplans.com

1. 
   forestgirl | Sep 30, 2003 07:12pm | #7

   "Smells kind of funny though." -- I'll bet!  Too funny.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl   ;-)

7. 
   watkinsjd | Oct 01, 2003 06:54am | #8

   I have had good results witha product called FLITZ.

   It removes rust quickly and doesn't seem to be too abrasive.  I have seen it available in small trial packs for only a few cents at some places.  I tried a pack on a table saw top and it took the rust away almost instantly without any significant marks on the surface.

8. 
   aew | Oct 01, 2003 03:51pm | #9

   Thanks to everyone who responded.  Since it is raining again today in NH, it might be a good day to work on it and see what happens.

1. 
   CRAIGCONEY_M | Oct 01, 2003 08:47pm | #10

   I pikced up a set of sanding blocks from Klingspor, coarse, med, fine, these work great for surfaces, use top cote or wax  to seal. 

1. 
   Robbie | Oct 01, 2003 11:51pm | #11

   I had to remove a tremendous amount of rust from an old Delta saw I restored.  I tried everything.  What finally worked was a Rust removal solution sold by Woodcraft along with varying grits of wet sandpaper.  Spritz it on the top, wait a few minutes for it to take action and then wet-sand it with the solution as the wet lubricant.  Try it with the finest grit that will cut - maybe 200.  Then work right up to 500 grit.  It will both clean and polish the top.  After it is off - and it will be - remember to Simoniz the top a few times with good paste wax to make it slick and to prevent future rust.

9. 
   steph | Oct 09, 2003 04:18am | #12
10. 
    COH | Oct 09, 2003 07:52am | #13

    Use Metal Prep. Lowes has it in the paint dept. 16 oz bottle, white. Use it with steel wool. It will remove all rust eventually. It is a dilution of phosphoric acid. I first started using it when doing metal prep on cars. Washes off with water then dry. It can be used gloveless and sounds worse than you might first think. Seal with furniture wax. I use it on my squares and saw beds.