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I did a check on the blade to miter slot parallelism on my Rigid TS2424, and it’s off by about .008” or so with the blade in the full up position. <!—-> <!—->
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Is it worth trying to get it better, or have I reached the point of diminishing returns and/or the ultimate accuracy of the machine?<!—-> <!—->
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Neil<!—-> <!—->
Replies
What kind of saw is it?
What are you using to check it?
Are you measuring to the same tooth in the forward and rear position?
You should aim for no more than 0.003" but most shoot for 0.001".
Howie,<!----><!----><!---->
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The TS2424 is the high end of the Rigid contractor saws (cast iron wings).<!----><!---->
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The gage is a Harbor Freight digital. I would not bet my life on the accuracy, but for a relative number and this application it should be OK. The runout on the blade is under .001, which is surprising. The blade is a Forrest WWII. I measured from the bottom of the gullets rather than having to worry about hitting the set or error on the teeth <!----><!---->
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Neil<!----><!---->
.008 is a lot. It can cause burning and/or drift... even worse, it could increase the risk of kick-back. I use to have a Dwalt Hybrid and had pretty good luck getting it to within .001 - but it was hard. Now I have a Sawstop and the adjustment is almost brainless. Good luck
>> The runout on the blade is under .001, which is surprising.I thought you said it was 0.008.>> I measured from the bottom of the gullets rather than having to worry about hitting the set or error on the teethNo, you should be measuring to the side of the tooth. Not to go into a long explanation but sawblades are sharpened with reference to the teeth, not the plate. It's possible (not usual though) for the blade to be flat but the teeth to be somewhat offset. Always measure to the same tooth. Start with the tooth at the front of the saw then move the tooth to the back of the saw. That way you are measuring the plane of the tooth travel which is what you want to do.Howie.........
Ya Neil, as Howie says. Put a mark on the tooth with a magic marker or something so you don't look track of it, then rotate it and measure it. But probably, you won't get a whole lot different outcome. Let us know.
Denny
Howie,<!----><!----><!---->
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That’s an interesting point. The plane of the saw blade plate does not necessarily have to be aligned with the teeth; the plate could wobble but the teeth could run square. Of course, that brings out the problem of hitting the top dead center of the set with the gauge. Mine (and I think most) have a conical tip and hitting the tooth square is likely to introduce a measurable error.<!----><!---->
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I was able to get it around .002” (plate measurement). There is still some burning on the fence side. Forrest recommends about .005 - .015 of clearance front to rear of fence (the fence is NOT parallel to the miter slot or blade but rear is farther out.<!----><!---->
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Neil<!----><!---->
You can buy the tips seperately. I think all of them have the same thread.
I use, a dedicated truing plate, instead of the saw blade. I think Freud makes it.
I managed to get the blade within about .002 without a whole lot of difficulty. My TS2400 actually has a micro adjust similar to the PALS kit. I guess I got lucky or this feature was added to my particular production run.<!----><!----><!---->
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The difference was remarkable; there is effectively no burning on either side of the cut. Measuring from the tooth or the steel plate yielded similar results. According to the Forrest web site, they recommend that you measure from the steel plate not the teeth. They must sharpen the teeth referenced to the plate, but then again it’s a high end blade and It also appears that the Forrest plate is machined.
I have a couple of inexpensive blades and their plates look like they were stamped. I suspect that measuring from a stamped plate would be tough...<!----><!---->
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Neil<!----><!---->
I have the same model saw. I purchased a PALS adjustment kit
It allowed for a much easier and more accurate adjustment.
http://www.in-lineindustries.com/saw_pals.html
Steve
I have the a-line basic and it works like a champ!
I second Steve's recommendation for the PALS kit.
And; yes you can, and should, get it considerably closer.
But; unless you use the miter gauge or other fixtures that reference off the miter slot, the blade to fence parallelism is more critical.
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