Replies

1. 
   SteveSchoene | Aug 28, 2010 08:46am | #1

   We need some more info from you.  The coloring process depends greatly on the variety of wood you are using, and what shade and intensity you have in mind as well as the desired sheen of the final finish. . In general, the staincolor will be applied before the shellac sealer but that does depend on the details I mentioned. 

   Polyurethane varnish, as used by Schofield, is not as good a choice as could have been made.  A better finish, with very similar application procedures, could be accomplished with non-polyurethane varnish.  "Poly" gets the marketing dollars and is cheap, so that is why it is popular, but it's best for floors and heavy duty applications like work tables,  not so suitable for furniture and dining tables, and cabinets. 

1. 
   chincha | Aug 30, 2010 01:24am | #2

   Cabinets door finish

     Hi Mr. Steve, thanks for your advices, well I am planning to use, red Oak, with brown mahogany gel stain  from general finishes, and the final finish that I would like is semi-gloss, now, how many coats of non polyurethane varnish do you recommend me to use after the shellac,  do you have any specific brand that you like to use? and how many coat of gel top coat for the finish, or do you recommend other procedures?

      I was working for a cabinet shop couples years ago assembling cabinets but also I was watching how the other guys were doing the stained and finishing process, I learned a lot just looking, but their process were very simple, ( cabinets door)  they stained, and them they put 4 coats of lacquer, that all,  I am perfeccionist guy so always I am looking for the best way to do anything, in this case, cabinets door, so appreciate a lot all your advices and comments.

     Thanks Steve

1. 
   SteveSchoene | Aug 30, 2010 08:58am | #3

   Your stain will work fine, red oak accepts staining well.  It will emphasize the grain structure of the open pores but that comes with oak.   Unless you wish to fill the oak pores, I'm going to suggest a revision of method.  I would not use the brush on varnish.  It's relatively thick consistency can give a less that attractive look around the pores. 

   Rather, I would suggest that you use a wiping varnish from start to finish.  In particular, Waterlox Original/Sealer is sold at wipe on consistency.  Applied with a rag, not too heavily, just wetting the surface, the thinner wiping varnish just flows into pores and you are left with a more natural appearance.  It will take more coats to finish the look, but not a whole lot more time.   Shellac over the stain and then apply the Waterlox. (the shellac isn't really needed, but I would give an extra day or two before the first coat of varnish if I omitted it.) 

   I would apply the Waterlox in "sets", 2 or 3 on a day.  You can apply the next coat after the preceeding one is no longer tacky,  You won't need to sand between coats of a set, but you should sand with 320 grit after coats cure overnight.  The wiping varnish functions rather like the gel coat.  It's thin so it dries fairly quickly,collecting little dust, and it isn't prone to generate runs and sags since you would see them immeditately and wipe them up. 

   It will probably take approximately 8-9 coats to give really nice table top coverage, a few less on surfaces that need less protection like cabinet doors.  After the final coat has cured a couple of days wipe it down vigorously with a terry towel, or with a crumpled brown paper grocery bag to remove what little dust, etc, has collected. 

1. 
   chincha | Sep 02, 2010 01:38am | #4

   cabinets door

   Thanks Steve !!!