Replies

1. 
   VeriestTyro | Nov 28, 2006 05:59pm | #1

   Stock for a benchtop should be face laminated, which results in the movement being through the thickness of the top and not across its width.  Because of the size of the top, I would crosscut and rip to finished dimensions using a handsaw.  It is the most direct solution and you should be able to do this.  You can handplane the bench flat, use a portable electric planer, or a belt sander.  You will need long straightedges and winding sticks in order to four-square the top.  You could load it up and take it to a millwork shop and have them run it through their big sander.  You're looking for an outfit that builds doors if that helps.

   You should buy a decent book on building workbenches.  Scott Landis is an author whose name comes up frequently.  You're going to have a lot invested in building a bench.  An extra thirty bucks or so for a book shouldn't break the bank.

   Additionally, you can 'join' this website and have access to article reprints.  There are more than a few on building benches.

    

   
   

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   Edited 11/28/2006 10:06 am ET by VeriestTyro

1. 
   chasusame | Nov 29, 2006 06:40pm | #4

   Many thanks....will look up the Landis book.Chase

2. 
   Samson | Nov 28, 2006 06:10pm | #2

   So does anyone have a jig or template or advice for forming a 12/4 hard wood bench top 24" x 72"? My biggest concern is how to smooth the glued up top really flat and getting it square after glue-up.

   Rip your 8 or 12 quarter hardwood to size - as in final thickness of the bench plus 1/4 or more. 

   Let the wood acclimate and move if it's going to for at least several days.

   Do you best to 4 square the strips with whatever you have in the way of a jointer and planer.

   Make sure you have lots of clamps.  Also prepare cauls (with clear packing tape on the business side to resist glue) to help keep things flat.

   Glue up only one strip at a time so that you have plenty of working time to make adjustments - i.e., close gaps at the face and level the edges.

   Plan to glue up two sections about 12" wide each as these can still make it through a lunch box planer.

   Finally glue the two sub-slabs together carefully and you should have little flattening to do at this single joint line.

   If you must flatten the the entire top at this point, you have sefveral options from hand planes to belt sanders to a router mounted on a large carriage to taking the slab to cabinet shop where they can run it through their huge drum sander.  

   
   

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   Edited 11/28/2006 10:11 am ET by Samson

3. 
   Samson | Nov 28, 2006 06:44pm | #3

   Oh, yeah, and getting it square after glue-up is not difficult.  A sliding miter saw or radial arm can cut off any unwieldy bits as you go, and a router with a straight bit is the best bet for final trimming of the ends.  A "T" jig with parallel members crossing both sides of the top simultaneously will allow you to rout a square and straight edge from both sides.  You could also rout only partially through on each side so as to form a tongue to accomodate bread board ends - these might help a little in keeping the top flat as well.  See the Workbench Book by Landis for lots of ideas.

1. 
   chasusame | Nov 29, 2006 06:41pm | #5

   Thanks...Will look up the Landis book and I now have a lit more confidence....thanks again.Chase

4. 
   pins | Nov 30, 2006 02:58am | #6

   I don't know where you are in Florida, but if you're anywhere close to North Dade or South Broward look up 'Frohbose and Beers.' Many years ago when I was in Miami I took several projects there for a little help, including cutting the dog holes in my bench and mounting the vises, when they were still in Miami.

   I could do all that now, but I couldn't do it then. They also wide belt sanded some large table tops for me, and surely they can sand your bench top.

   Why suffer?

   John

5. 
   HowardAcheson | Nov 30, 2006 05:43pm | #7

   It's not the absolute value of the humidity that causes wood movement. It's the seasonal change in relative humidity. Many areas of Florida have small seasonal changes and, therefore, have small or not wood movement to worry about.

   Let me also also say that wood expands/contracts across the grain Therefore there will be movement across a tabletop whether the boards are face glued or edge glued. Movement tangent to the grain is about double the movement that is radial to the grain but both movements are significant. You can generally ignore longitudinal (length) movement.

   Howie.........