Hello all:
Need some advice engineering a large (for me anyway) table.
The concept: a 42-inch by 8-foot country-style table made from pine, using
standard 29-inch turned legs.
The problem: The neighbor for whom I would build this wants drawers in the
aprons, and I’m worried standard 4-inch aprons with holes for drawers won’t be
strong enough over a probably 7-foot span. I can imagine a 300-pound reveler
at New Years sitting on the center of the table and hearing a large crack as the
apron gives way at those weak points above a drawer.
Am I worrying unnecessarily?
A sampling of local woodworkers has gotten me “don’t worry” and “use 5/4
hardwood” and “place the drawers at the ends not in the sides.”
Any of you want to weigh in?
Replies
Hey Gaf,
Here's my 1/2 cent worth. You just need to engineer and design around the customers idea (a strange request at that).
-The 4 inch apron can be made extra thick and not show on the outside.
-Make the drawer depth only about 1/3 of the table frame depth so you have room under the top for a significant beam or two running down the length of the table. Also add some cross members attached to the aprons between the drawers.
-I'm thinking 6/4 heavy yellow pine.
I agree with your concern, the table must be able to hold a 300lb drunk, or TWO.
Enjoy, Roy
Talk customer out of drawers because they will be uselessly shallow and weaken the table. Are having the place mats that handy really worth compromising the structure? or ...
Make the table top thick enough to not need aprons for support. Probably 6/4 or 8/4 should do.
Go with a 14"-16" overhang on the ends. This reduces the span and makes it more comfortable for those sitting at the ends of the table (6/4 vs 8/4)
Make the drawer apron out of 2 thicknesses of 3/4" BB ply and veneer it with shop cut veneer. Cut your drawer fronts out of the same board before you resaw the veneer. This may be overkill, but I'd do it.
You'll need to use double tenons at the apron to leg joints. Remember that when there are no strechers and a floating top the only thing preventing racking of the legs are these M&T joints . Therefore leave at least 1/2" shoulders top and bottom and pin them.
Remember that there are several variables that can effect the apron height. Chair height, arms or no arms size of the people, table height - all of which have their own ranges and have to work together. Legs don't like being wedged under aprons, feet don't like dangling off the floor, and fingers don't like being jammed between chair arms and table tops. This is the great part about custom furniture - it can be fit to the client. If they already have the chairs do a mock-up (saw horses, 2x's, blockingand a piece of ply ...)John O'Connell - JKO Handcrafted Woodworking
Life is tough. It's tougher if you're stupid - John Wayne
Very good suggestions. Another asthetic tip-If you are going to use anything thicker than 6/4 for the top I suggest you could bevel the bottom edge to make it appear to be thinner. For example, if you use 8/4 for the top. Turn the top over exposing the bottom. Make a pencil mark 4 to 6 inches in from the edge all the way around. Next mark the edge 1/2 inch from the bottom all the way around. Plane down to these lines making sure to keep the outside edge straight. When right side up this will give the appearance of a 6/4 top. I've used this method on some dining room chairs I made and it works well. Good luck.
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