My table saw’s cast iron table is beginning to rust a bit (I suspect from condensation). What are the best ways:
1. To prevent this rust in the first place. I’ve been using Top-Coat but that doesn’t seem to be doing the trick
2. To remove the bit of rust that is there now. I was thinking a scotch bright pad.
Thanks, Mischa
Replies
http://forums.taunton.com/fw-knots/messages?msg=48009.3
Life is what happens to you when you're making other plans.
When your ship comes in... make sure you are not at the airport.
Sandflex work well on light rust, and last a long time: http://www.lie-nielsen.com/catalog.php?grp=1245. I've shown them on the LN site, but they're widely available at hobby-shops, etc.
Jim
To remove the initial rust I used a white or gray scotch bright pad that I cut in a circle mounted to a Bosch ROS. I also used 3M chrome polish with the pad. White polishing compound would probably work OK.
Life is what happens to you when you're making other plans.
When your ship comes in... make sure you are not at the airport.
Hey there,
have you tried Boeshield. It was highly recommended to me on this forum and so far so good. It really seems like a great solution for protection. Apparently it was developed by Boeing and is also used in the marine industry.
Eoin
Mischa,
I use Boeshield and it works for me. I did read somewhere on the web about a woodworker who uses waterbased poly on his machine surfaces. I can't find the article any more, but it started as a mistake - he spilled some poly on his TS and quickly started to clean it up with wood shavings. Then he noticed that it made the surface slick, so he uses that now.
and www.flairwoodwork.spaces.live.com)
- Success is not the key to happiness. Happiness is the key to success. If you love what you are doing, you will be successful. - Albert Schweitzer
I've been using a slurry of WD-40 and Barkeepers Friend for years. Apply with a Scotch brite pad, then cleanup with acetone. Then apply T9, buffed with a polisher. I use rotex mode for my polisher now.Ooooops, replied to the wrong poster!
Edited 9/20/2009 8:18 am ET by knuts
Sounds like work!Chris @ http://www.flairwoodworks.com and http://www.flairwoodwork.spaces.live.com)
- Success is not the key to happiness. Happiness is the key to success. If you love what you are doing, you will be successful. - Albert Schweitzer
I don't think you need condensation to cause rust. I think just a high relative humidity will do it too. Others?
"...... I think just a high relative humidity will do it too.........."
Humidity here in Atlanta? Um - well, yeah, occasionally, like when I'm breathing. Don't get me started on my relatives, though.
I use the sandflex blocks (I get them at Highland - seem to last quite a while) to remove rust + stains. Johnson's floor wax seems to prevent the rust AFAIK, but my primary objective with that is to reduce friction on TS + fence, jointer + fence,........so on. A two-fer. Really don't have any rust unless I spill something on it and let it go for a while.
Also - I like the Camellia oil for handplanes, etc. Does not stain wood. Blow clean with air (get any residual moisture-absorbing dust off them) then lite spray + wipe with camellia oil after using them. Never any hint of rust, even here in ATL.
"I think just a high relative humidity will do it too. Others?" I would agree, Tinkerer. My lathe has gotten that dusty-red look on the rails from sitting unused in the shop. I don't think there is ever condensation in there, but for sure the humidity got high last winter, as I wasn't working out there much, therefore not running the pellet stove as would be normal.
Discovered something ugly when I picked up a paper bag off the steel Veritas router table top -- said bag had a couple of seed potatoes in it, which had rotted and actually etched little pits in the steel. Sheesh!forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
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