I’ve heard some good things about the Ryobi Bt3000(now 3100?); decent saw good price. Looked at Ryobi.com and google couldn’t find a price. Can anybody give me a price range and feedback. Please include info on miter gauge and fence; after-market upgrades can get pricey. I’d love a top of the line cabinet saw, don’t have the budget. Any and all recommendations appreciated.
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Replies
habilis,
There is a forum and user group out on the internet for bt300/3100 users that will give you a good feel for the issues and features. It is like the VW bug of table saws -cheap and decent performance but not a lot of power, noisy, a bit sloppy in the assembly and not the best materials.
I got a 3000 about 6 years ago - a floor model close out at HD. It was very cheap, but mostly I got it because I didn't have to re-wire the shop, and it had a true riving knife, and a sliding miter table - two features that are just now starting to show up on big name saws. I didn't know they were still selling the 3100. Sears used to have a clone sold under Craftsman brand - it was easier to find parts from Sears parts service.
Downsides are the aluminum tables, the clumsy rip fence, and the noisy motor. Lots of things need regular adjustment (like the riving knife alignment). Upsides are pretty good dust collection, the sliding table and the available accessories. It needs thin kerf blades to make the best of the limited power.
For the money I would look at the Craftsman zip code hybrid on a good sale, but the 3100 is probably still a good value. The pros will laugh at a Ryobi, but for a hobbyist, the few hours a month the saw is used, it isn't worth getting the used cast iron Unisaw or 220v cabinet saw everyone will tell you that you just have to have.
FWIW
The last I knew the Ryobi BT wasn't even made anymore. It's available as a Craftsman 21829 with a roll away base and a built in router table....goes on sale in the $400 range.
Some people love the sliding miter and adjustability of the saw. The downsides are the size of the table area, especially in front of the blade. It's also lighter weight, so not as stable as a full size cast iron saw. Some people find it bit finnicky to setup, but others do very well with it.
The wise folks at BT3Central.com can answer every question you might have about that saw.
If price is driving the decision, the Ridgid 3650/3660 is currently on sale for $400 at HD. That's a full size cast iron saw with a belt drive induction motor that has several advantages over the Ryobi BT format IMHO.
Edited 2/1/2009 1:02 pm ET by Knotscott
I upgraded and dumped one for 100 buck last weekend. It was fine at the time but when I wanted to be "better" the Sliding miter has to much slop.. and due the design the you cant make a "jig" like a panel cutter or a really anything for it. In the end you will grow and want it better and It can't be made better in MHO. Id research the others that have Guides in the table top you can always align and set up, everything if their "fixed in place", it might be a PITA to do so but with the BT3000 and others.. as you use it your wearing out the accuracy of the slides and the other nylon bits.. There are allot of recent discussions on this site do a search of "contractors saws" to get in the $$$ target ya thinking of doling out.Hope this helpsRichCapt. Rich Clark
--DUCT Tape is the "force"... It has a Light side and a Dark side and it binds the universe together
I had one for awhile. I would charactarize it as much better than a $100 budget saw, but not as good as a cast iron contractor's saw.
Cons: There isn't a provision for a miter gauge (unless you buy an aftermarket kit) and the adjustments would never hold on mine. The distance between the blade and the front of the table is also quite short. Motors are famous for burning out (universal motor) or breaking belts (difficult to replace) or spitting the raise/lower shims. Switches are famous for arcing open. Wierd size zero clearance plate. Same handle lowers and bevels the blade (you have to pull it out to bevel)
On the plus side : It does have a riving knife and decent dust collection. It also has a sliding table which has the potential for being accurate if fully tuned. You can get a microadjuster for the fence which is incredibly accurate.
It is a great saw for smaller projects. It's not the saw for ripping sheets of plywood though. I was very happy to replace mine with a cabinet saw.
I had a budget saw not the ryobi, they are fine for home improvement. But i will say if you ever want to make nice furniture, save up and buy a contractor saw at least. I wish someone had given me that advice.
Mark
Hell, now I'm looking at hybrids. The ryobi was not what I thought. FWW likes the Woodtek.
You might look at the new Rigid hybrid saw from HD. It sounds like a lot of bang for the buck for around $600. http://www.ridgid.com/Tools/R4511-Table-Saw/EN/index.htmDavid B
Definitely looks interesting for $600.
Big step up IMHO, and should give you a more substantial saw.
Haven't been able to find any info about purchasing one.
From what I've been reading, a few have ordered the R4511 from Ridgid, and a few have picked them up at wwing shows. They're supposed to be in stores by the end of February...
I like mine. Got the accessory kit with it, so it will handle a standard miter gauge. It's definitely not a heavy-duty production saw but I've completed a large number of household projects without any problems at all. I just take it easy with heavy stock and don't "push" it. I do use a circular saw to cut sheet goods to manageable size.
I have a BT3000 and I also own a Delta Unisaw. I bought the Bt3000 to use as a site saw for a home that I built, it sure is a whole lot more portable than a 450 lb Unisaw. I bought mine for about $260 from a now extinct Builders Square in NJ, about 15 years ago.
Complains, the universal motor is very loud and marginally robust, but with a good thin kerf blade it did a good job with 3/4" oak flooring. Also if you mount a router in the router table, the aluminum table really amplifies the screaming routers noise level.
I think I have gotten my $260 worth of work of the tool and then some..
Edited 2/2/2009 7:14 pm ET by BOBABEUI
I keep a sharp eye on craigs list. As much as I'd like to; 2-$3000 can't be justified with our budget. Most discretionary spending is earmarked for rebuilding this big old house. The Rigid R4511 seems like the best fit at the moment unless craig comes through. I hear HD is dropping the price for the Ts3650 to make room. Can't find any in the local stores. Actually, I don't recall ever seeing anything better than a portable TS in the half dozen local HD I'm familiar with.
Interesting. http://washingtondc.craigslist.org/doc/tls/1017024682.htmlPhase converter?
Much more interesting if it had a Unifence!forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
Yeah, that and having to buy the phase converter(did my homework) and space/mobility considerations along with the fact it was in the hands of high school students for years... Careful thought and examination happening.
I guess if you needed the extra HP, it might be an OK deal. I paid $750 for a 3HP, but it has the ~53" rails and the Unifence + extension table. I hear ya on the concern about it being a school machine.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
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