To set the stage I’ve built a very solid table for my new Freud FT3000VCE plunge router. I’m using new 1/2 inch shank Freud or Woodcraft anti-kickback bits and the occasional budget bit. I’m routing 3/4 inch oak. Router speed setting is low. Lately doing small 12×8 shaped pieces with a few curves. Not using the fence. Usually round-over or some other small decoritive pattern on the edges by manipulating my workpiece slowly into the bearing-topped bit, with the grain to start, then moving the piece right to left (against the rotation of the bit) slowly and continuing around until BAMMM – the piece gets ripped out of my hand!
I do notice a buzz or vibration when I’m moving the piece against the bit but not when the router is running on it’s own without any contact. I don’t remember this much vibration when using my cheap table-top router table with an old Craftsman 1 hp tool. To quantify the amount of vibration – It’s enough to put your hand to sleep if you we’re to hold on to the wood for say, 1 minute.
This usually happens when routing end-grain or when the piece is introduced to the bit against the grain or actually anywhere thats not obviously with the grain.
Any suggestions are greatly appreciated. I’m about to jump out a window!
-Brett
Replies
First of all you are using the wrong speed setting, the smaller bits that you are using should be run at top speed. Running a small bit at slow speeds greatly increases the chance that a bit will dig in.
Also oak, especially end grain oak, is very hard to cut. Make the cut in two, or more, graduated steps of increasing depth instead of trying to make the cut in one pass.
You should install a starting pin in your router table. A starting pin is simply a small post, or block of wood, positioned a few inches away from the bit that you can brace the stock against as you gradually start the cut, it gives you a lot more control of the wood. Once the cut is started you can pivot the wood away from the post to continue the cut freehand.
The vibration is a worrying sign, especially if it started right after one of those severe kick back incidents. About the only source would be either a bent router bit or a bent router shaft. If the router shaft is bent, there is no fix, replacing the shaft would probably cost more than the price of a new machine.
To try to figure out if there has been damage, chuck a ball bearing guided bit in the router. Use a bit that is brand new or one which you are sure has never had a kick back incident. Raise the bit so that only the bearing is above the table and then hold a piece of stock against the spinning bit. If you get the vibration, and you are sure the bit is good, then the router is damaged.
If you try the experiment and you don't get any vibration, then the router is good but you probably have some bent bits. You can identify the bad bits by repeating the above test with each suspect bit. You may have bent both the bits and the router shaft so you'll still have to test the suspect bits but only after the router has been replaced if that is necessary.
John White
Thanks John. It appears that I do have several bits that vibrate more than others. I tried a few brand new round over bits with success! Also, I found the starter pin that came with the router table mounting plate and am using that now - it's makes a big difference. I can feel when the cut catches but the pin stops it from getting worse so I'm able to complete the process without the workpiece flying away.
Appreciate your help,
Brett
You are welcome, glad to hear that the router wasn't damaged.John W.
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