Table Mounting a Reciprocating Saw
davcefai
| Posted in Power Tools and Machinery on
I have just bought a reciprocating saw for a specific job (with my wife cheering me on and encouraging me <g>) and now I’m wondering whether it is possible to mount it on a table.
I have a cute little jigsaw table where the free end of the blade runs between a pair of rollers to keep it straight. Unfortunately the max depth of cut is 40mm. Something similar for the reciprocating saw would enable tenon cutting in about 3 inches thick wood.
Is this possible? Or is there an actual table I haven’t found?
Replies
I've never heard of anyone doing this. Can't think of a good way to mount it firmly.
Why would you want to?
Mike Hennessy
Pittsburgh, PA
Why would I want to? I could cut larger pieces than I could using a mounted jigsaw.
I remember seeing this somewhere, I think there were 2 cleats on the bottom of the table and the saw base was slid under the cleats and fastened down - can't remember details.Also, there is another post on Knots that linked to an Australian site - Chris Vesper Tools at:
http://www.vespertools.com.au/links/index.htmThere is a Link on his links page to Australian Woodsmith magazine at:
http://www.australianwoodsmith.com.au/The latest issue of that magazine has an article titled:
"Jigsaw Table - Invert your jigsaw with this simple table."
However, you need the magazine for details.I'v had too many jig saw blades fall out to want to be looking down on one when that happens - doesn't sound safe to me. And, what if someone tried this with a Sawzall - that is really scary! Larry
"I could cut larger pieces than I could using a mounted jigsaw."
Well, maybe -- maybe not. Recip saw blades are not known for their rigidity and don't exactly produce laser-straight cuts, or cuts square to the surface for that matter. They are also notorious for binding in cuts, etc. That's why I asked why you wanted to do this. I guess a better-worded question would have been "what exactly are you trying to do?"
Mike HennessyPittsburgh, PA
I've owned a couple of reciprocating saws and I can't imagine the advantage of having one mounted to a table. There are way too many safety issues weighing against it.
Have you considered a scroll saw or a band saw? The ss & bs, having their blades affixed both above and below your work give a stability that the rs cannot and will not have. The length of the rs blade will work against you, I believe.
The reciprocating saws I have used worked great on remodeling jobs where I needed to cut away sections of wall or floor. They are GREAT for demolition, but not for fine work.
It could be done. If I had to do it; I would bolt the front plate of the saw to router table insert, and build some form of frame to hold a set of upper guide bearings, similar to the set up on a band saw.
But to do it safely would cost me about $100 to $150 in parts and materials. For that, I can go buy a little 9-inch bandsaw that will to the job at least as well if not better.
So, I am not sure why I would do it other than an to just do it. It doesn't really fill a tool niche that isn't already taken care of.
Did this with a Milwaukee Sawzall
Shortened it by cutting off the handle(grip) Added a wider metal mounting plate to existing shoe. Relocated switch added a foot switch and diagonal struts to reduce vibration.
The whole thing fitted inside a wooden box to carry to jobsite. Used it to re cut hundreds of stainless strike plates for a retro fit to misaligned metal door frames notched for heavy duty mortise locks.
Steinmetz.
"I guess a better-worded question would have been "what exactly are you trying to do?"Fair Question. My thinking is on the lines of:
1. I've got the saw.
2. My workshop is small and my budget for woodworking is not able to stretch to all the tools I'd love to have.
3. Since my little jigsaw table works well I thought I'd stretch the concept. The rollers would keep the blade straight.
Dear Dave,
I'm all for the unconventional approach and some Evel Knievel woodworking as well, but I think that you are asking to get hurt on this one. If you are considering mounting a modern, orbital action 10 amp or so demolition saw, in the fashion that you have sketched, then I would suggest a healthy dose of demolition first, just to get a feel for what the saw will do. Go find a shed or small building that someone doesn't want, go cut up a dozen pallets or cut a car in half. I have spent many, many hours using, abusing and breaking these saws and let me tell you that they are unforgiving. As mentioned they like to bind and they will rip a piece of wood out of someone's hand very easily. The saws are not intended for what you want, but perhaps more importantly, the blades are not designed for hands to be near by. I would say that in skilled hands a chain saw is more accurate then a demo saw, neither one of which I would want to feed wood into by hand. Save up for a bandsaw.My two cents.Best,John
Edited 8/17/2008 10:52 pm ET by Jmartinsky
Thanks for this.Not the answer I wanted but then, that's why I asked.Incidentally however my saw is rather punier than what you describe. It is a 710 watt (220V), 600 - 2400 strokes/minute without orbital action. Possibly we have a nomenclature problem. Words often have a different meaning on opposite sides of the Atlantic.Having used the saw it feels little different from a jigsaw, apart from the shape and longer blade. Actually my newest 850 watt jigsaw, with orbital action, seems to cut a 1 inch plank faster.However the I bought the recip saw for a specific purpose, which it seems suitable for and I should therefore be content. It's just that having bought it, I got this bright idea........!
OK. Well, I've been forced to cobble together more than one "power tool" due to budgetary constraints over time, so I can understand.
I suppose if I wuz trying to do this, which I'm not, I'd plunge a slot in a piece of ply for the table, and then I'd securely and rigidly fasten a suitably shaped 2X4 (cut to nest the saw nicely), vertically under the table. (I leave it to you to figure out how to do this.) I'd fasten the saw to the 2X4 with a few of those stainess steel strap clamps. As for the rollers above, I'd probably fashion a 2X4 "bridge" over the width of the table, and fasten the rollers to the front of the bridge. You'd need a thrust bearing too, like in a bandsaw. Then have at it.
After doing all that, you'd probably have a "tool" that would cut only marginally better, if at all, than simply doing it freehand.
If you plan to use this like a jigsaw, or scroll saw (i.e., make curved cuts) it won't work since any blade thin enough to cut curves will be too thin to prevent flexing -- it won't track and will be forced out of the rollers. Further, if your saw is truly an orbital-action saw, it probably won't stay in the rollers very well anyway, since the blade moves forwards and backwards as it moves up and down.
If you plan to use it for ripping straight cuts, you'd be better off making a table saw by fixing a circular saw under said plywood table. Probably cheaper in the long run and better by far.
Mike HennessyPittsburgh, PA
"...cut a car in half"
John,
Boy is that fun. A while back, the local tool store hosted the Bosch Big Blue truck. They brought in their saws and sledgehammers as well as an old car. It was up to us (the public) to demolish it. The hammer was fun. It's a lot harder to cut through the firewall than the bodywork! Ah, good fun.Chris @ http://www.flairwoodwork.spaces.live.com
- Success is not the key to happines. Happiness is the key to success. If you love what you are doing, you will be successful. - Albert Schweitzer
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