Replies

1. 
   MikeHennessy | Aug 21, 2007 02:54pm | #1

   Fasten some straight stock to each long edge, just a bit above the surface of the workpiece. These will serve as rails. Make sure the tops are in the same plane. Make up a sled to ride on these rails -- you can use 1/2" ply on the horizontal with some 1X4 in the vertical direction to stiffen it -- like an open box. The box should be just a little wider than your router base. Rout a groove down the middle of your sled and run the router back and forth over the workpiece while working the sled from one end to the other.

   Hard to describe. Not hard to do.

   Or, just use hand planes. Swish. Swish. ;-)

   Either way, I understand some of these bowling alley sections have metal fasteners. Avoid them.

   Mike Hennessy
   Pittsburgh, PA

2. 
   Pippins | Aug 21, 2007 02:57pm | #2

   joeqp, see this site:

   http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/index.asp?PageAction=Custom&ID=58

   Steve

1. 
   Carya | Aug 21, 2007 04:45pm | #4

    

   I like that idea.  Is there any reason this technique should not be used on general furniture after glueup?  Would it leave the grain straight after some light sanding or leave some undesirable marks?

   Lee Valley has a "bottom cleaning" bit 1.5" wide that looks appropriate.

    

   Andy

    

1. 
   RickL | Aug 21, 2007 05:06pm | #5

   The idea is to glue up your panels so you don't have to do such an operation. By using curved cauls I thickness my boards right to the finished thickness and glue them up and only need to scrape of the glue and sand the planer ripples out.

   The bit would be called a spoiboard bit. Kind of like locking the barndoor after the horse got out in my opinion. Better to glue up panels better before hand. I  don't have time to waste on unnecessary operations.

2. 
   Pippins | Aug 21, 2007 05:07pm | #6

   Andy, I have not used this technique before but do not see any reason that it would not work on any glue up. My impression is that the original intent was to use the technique on large surfaces where the planer or drum sander could not be used.

   My work bench is 60" inches square and I intend to use the technique one of these days when I get the time.

   I am expecting to do some planing and sanding to clean up any ridges left by the router.

   A 1.5" wide bit sounds dangerous. Are you sure that it is a router bit?  

   Steve   

3. 
   sapwood | Aug 21, 2007 06:46pm | #7

   "Is there any reason this technique should not be used on general furniture after glueup?"In my experience the technique is a real drudge. It's noisy, dusty, takes a good bit of time to set up and execute, and results in a surface that still needs considerable planing or scraping. Still, I suggest that you try it out for yourself and let your experience answer your question.

1. 
   Carya | Aug 21, 2007 08:06pm | #8

   Thanks for the replies. I was curious if it would help plane a glueup that was not perfect. :) Sounds like more work than its worth. For Steve: the 1.5" bit is a real router bit and is much smaller than the second bit I've used in my new machine since last week. Just trying to find all the jobs I could do with the new tool. Still haven't decided how it could be used to wash the dishes... :) Andy

1. 
   GettinTher | Aug 21, 2007 11:13pm | #9

   I have tried it and found that any amount of flex in the mounting board results in  nasty gouges in the planed surface.  I had used 3/4" ply, but clearly did not stiffen it enough.  I don't think I will try it again even though I don't yet own a planer.  For now, it's hand tools and imposing on others who do.

   Edited 8/21/2007 4:15 pm ET by GettinTher

3. 
   BruceS | Aug 21, 2007 04:16pm | #3

   Another warning !   The boards are usually nailed together.   Before trying to route it flat.  You will probably find T shaped stiffners on the bottom,  try driving some thin tapered wedges between then and the deck and maybe adding some screwed on 2X3 maple "joists" to the bottom.   This might work if the deck is warped and not sanded to the bowed position.

   What section did you get?  Maple or Southern yellow pine.   I have the pine but it still makes a great assembly table.

   Work Safe,  Count to 10 when your done for the day !!

   Bruce S. 

    

   
   

   ---

   Edited 8/21/2007 9:26 am ET by BruceS

4. 
   Ray | Aug 23, 2007 02:15am | #10

   Mine has a couple of 1" angle irons screwed to the bottom to stiffen it.  Are yours missing?  Also, don't try to go too deep, each strip is nailed to the next one.  I'm in the process of pulling a large amount of nails so I can glue the strips and make a proper workbench top.

1. 
   KiddervilleAcres | Aug 23, 2007 03:08am | #11

   Get yourselves a couple of solid core doors.  Cut out the hole for the door opener, Slap some shellac on 'em and clamp together.  Install 6 lag bolts that will be out of the way of dogholes to tie the tops together, attach an apron and your top is done!

   They're dead flat, no messing around.  Just make a trestle base, attach to the top and you're good to go.

   You folks have got work to do making furniture, not futzing around making a bench! <G>  Metod would be proud of me, I think!

   P.S.  If you are going to use power tools, leave the door opener holes in place, align them so the are together so as to route power cords down thru them.

   Regards,

   Bob @ Kidderville Acres

    

   A Woodworkers mind should be the sharpest tool in the shop!

   Edited 8/22/2007 8:12 pm ET by KiddervilleAcres

   Edited 8/22/2007 8:14 pm ET by KiddervilleAcres

   Edited 8/22/2007 8:15 pm ET by KiddervilleAcres