Hi to All –
Awhile back I recall reading an article about surfacing birdseye maple. In it, the author recommended wetting the surface of the stock before running it through the jointer or the planer to minimize (if not eliminate) tearout. Has anyone given this method a reality check? I figured I’d ask before introducing rust onto my equipment or potentially ruining good stock.
If this has worked for you, would you briefly decsribe your procedure.
Thanks in advance.
T2
Replies
I haven't tried this but my Wood mag April/May issue just showed up. There's an article on flattening/surfacing wide and highly figured boards with a sled mounted router and a guide rail setup. The author swears you wont get tearout. Might be worth a look.
If you build it - he will come.
TRUSCHE2 ,
Most of the time I have more problems with curly maple as opposed to birdseye. I have tried wetting the surface of birdseye but it did not make much of a difference. However wetting does work well for curly and quilted maple.
You may also skew the boards as you pass them over the jointer if you have a jointer that is wide enough.
Most of the time I have very good success with a sharp hand plane or cabinet scraper. I do have a Lie-Nielsen 4 1/2 with a high angle frog which works beautifully for most figured woods especially figured maple.
Hope this helps.
J.P.
I have not surfaced any birdseye maple, but I have used the method to surface curly maple with excellent results. I dampen the surface, let it sit for a few minutes, and run it through the planer. You have to repeat this procedure for at least every other pass. If you are using boards that are very wide, I'd dampen both sides so it doesn't warp. I've not experienced any problems with rust, but if you are worried about it, just run some scrap through the planer, the heat from this will dry the blades and cutter head.
Rob Millard
wetting helps, but it is more importaint that you take very light cuts. As mentioned before feed the boards at as much of an angle as you can. I then sand with 120 grit to remove milling marks and give it several passes with a card scraper. After the scraper you are ready to finish.
enjoy,
Mike
I have used it on highly figured maple and walnut and it works great. I keep a big sponge like the tile guys use and use just enough to wet it, not soak it. Taking light cuts helps but if you trying to get down in a hurry, it keeps the tearout from going so deep.
You still have to watch what your doing, go slow but it does make a difference. I am sure you know this but I watch the first few passes and see which way the board runs cleaner since figured boards aren't as easy to decide which way to run them.
If you use a spiral head planer it should reduce the tearout, that is what I have been reading. I have a few highly figured bm. and will run them next month.
sappy
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