Replies

1. 
   Jammersix | Mar 13, 2009 04:50am | #1

   You know, when I saw the title "Stripper", I completely forgot that I was reading a woodworking board.

2. 
   SteveSchoene | Mar 13, 2009 06:01am | #2

   You can probably do OK at the hardware store or paint store.  If your most important property desired is effectiveness, then you want a methylene chloride stripper.  The active ingredient (MC) is relatively heavy, so the cans that are heaviest are usually the most potent.  But remember methylene chloride is a dangerous chemical.  YOU DO NOT WANT TO BREATHE THIS.  More than your usual "good ventilation" is called for in my opinion.  The safe strippers work, but at a relative snails pace. 

3. 
   Gretchen | Mar 13, 2009 04:00pm | #3

   You definitely don't need the woodworking shop, unless they are having a sale. Do as Steve suggested--heaviest container for the most bang for the buck. IF you are stripping a clear finish you can probably get away with one of the lighter strippers, but if it is paint, just go for the big gun and get it done.

   Gretchen
4. 
   BruceS | Mar 13, 2009 04:22pm | #4

   Lets start with.  What kind of finish are you stripping?  And go from there.

   Work Safe,  Count to 10 when your done for the day !!

   Bruce S. 

    

1. 
   GDH2 | Mar 13, 2009 05:25pm | #5

   Good point, Bruce. I am usually going to be stripping the top surface of old (sometimes antique) furniture before refinishing the top when the top is beyond being touched up. The furniture will be sold - I do work for Household Goods Recycling Ministry, and these sales help cover the operational costs.Doug
   The Wood Loon
   Acton, MA

1. 
   YesMaam27577 | Mar 13, 2009 07:58pm | #6

   For pieces that were originally stained and varnished, or other clear-coat, I'd just use some sandpaper. It takes less time than you night think. It won't damage the wood (which might be a very thin veneer). And if you're just a little careful, you won't even need to touch up the stain.

   Politics is the antithesis of problem solving.

1. 
   GDH2 | Mar 13, 2009 08:06pm | #7

   Yes, it often is veneer. I have been sanding (I've only gone through the veneer once) but my impression from a couple postings is that stripper might be a better solution.Doug
   The Wood Loon
   Acton, MA

1. 
   SteveSchoene | Mar 14, 2009 03:26am | #11

   Bruce makes a good point.  On older pieces that were originally finished with shellac (ie. anything up to about 1920 or so ) you can remove the top most, grungy layers of shellac, and if needed apply a fresh coat on top, without really stripping or removing the old finish. 

2. 
   SteveSchoene | Mar 13, 2009 10:36pm | #8

   I would disagree with the suggestion to try sanding off old finishes.  Sanding removes all the patina in the old wood--even furnitures that is just "old" often has patina worth preserving.  Secondly, sanding almost never leaves a surface that will accept being stained well again, since unless you sand extremely deeply you will still leave stain and finish imbedded in the porous portions, where they seal the wood differently than where the original stain was just on the surface.  I certainly wouldn't risk sanding on veneer.  Once you cut through, the refinishing project just becomes very much more difficult. 

1. 
   jimmy | Mar 14, 2009 12:16am | #9

   Easy reply...what Steve said, 100%...Jimmy

3. 
   BruceS | Mar 14, 2009 01:48am | #10

   Try denatured alcohol on old pieces.   Put a few drops on a  hidden spot.  If it disolves, life is good and you have a shelac finish!!   Continue to clean it up with alcohol, pick up 80% of the gue and evenly spread the remainder and then apply a new coat of shelac.Work Safe,  Count to 10 when your done for the day !!

   Bruce S.