Replies

1. 
   daleduvall | Feb 27, 2004 03:24am | #1

   I have a 72" Starrett straight edge ($$), but it's an overkill for what you need. A good straight edge between 36" and 48" should be more than enough to setup and check anything in your shop. Even a good quality level will probably do the job. I believe that J & L Industrial has straight edges of different different grades, but I don't recall their web site address (try your search engine).

   dale

1. 
   2002XX | Feb 27, 2004 04:35am | #6

   Thanks Dale. I checked out J&L Industrial. They had a nice selection there and a little cheaper too. They are also to the same spec as Starrett. Thanks again Rick

2. 
   Elcoholic | Feb 27, 2004 03:25am | #2

   I have a 4' beam for a Smart Level that seems to do a good job for my machine setups and was a hell of a lot cheaper than a Starret straight edge.  There's also the time tested standard El Cheapo factory edge on a sheet of mdf or melamine.  It may not be square, but edges are nearly perfectly straight.

   John O'Connell - JKO Handcrafted Woodworking

   Life is tough.  It's tougher if you're stupid - John Wayne

3. 
   BG | Feb 27, 2004 03:28am | #3

   Rick,

   Buy a piece of extruded aluminum at the hardware store.....go over to woodcraft and measure the flatness with the starrets.  Remember acceptable tollerance for the TS and Jointer is in the .005 range....and after initial set up you don't check it very often.  I love my 12" and 6" starrets...use them all the time. 
1. 
   2002XX | Feb 27, 2004 04:15am | #4

   Thank you for your replies. I think I will bite the bullet and just pay for the Starrett. They seem to be very good quality. Now which one to buy the 36" or 48" straight edge. I will keep checking back. Thanks again Rick

1. 
   tatlin | Feb 27, 2004 04:31am | #5

   Rick,

   I bought a bevel-edge 36" Starret straight edge & feel its more than adequate. Its the same thickness as the 48". I found myself buying a 18" bevel-edge after that, so I'm covered. Anything longer than that & I'd go with the tried & true "factory edge" sheet good offcut. I've been pleased buying from MSC direct & their delivery times are overnight break neck speed. They offer several choices of manufacturers as well.

1. 
   2002XX | Feb 27, 2004 04:47am | #7

   TATLIN thank you for the information and I will go and check MSC right now. Rick

1. 
   2002XX | Feb 27, 2004 05:11am | #9

   One last question. Is it better to get the square edge or the beveled edge. What are the benefits of each. Sorry to wear you guys out with this but I want to order once and get the right thing. THANKS

2. 
   Steinmetz | Feb 27, 2004 05:42am | #10

   Bevel edge (So you can spot any light showing up low spots)

   Also, to check vertical cylindrical surfaces ,for scribing close lines, for slicing thin wood veneers/ templates/ leather/ paper etc  Eliminates shadows along the 'Sightline'

   The opposite edge can be stood on edge to serve as a bridge across holes/gaps etc, to measure upward to the ajacent surface and to determine parallism.  Stein.

    (Get a stainless steel version)  Always store vertically use hanging hole on a brass peg

   Edited 2/26/2004 9:49:39 PM ET by steinmetz

3. 
   2002XX | Feb 27, 2004 06:08am | #11

   Thanks Stein, all good information and thanks for explaining it in detail. I will take all this into consideration before buying. RICK

4. 
   wrudiger | Feb 27, 2004 06:20am | #12

   Here is an alternative approach that I would highly recommend, both to save $$ and to get way more info on tool tuning than available from the manuals:

   Care and Repair of Shop MachinesA complete guide to setup, troubleshooting and maintenance John White

   From Taunton, of course (no, I don't work for them).  He does an outstanding job of explaining all the tricks to tune both old and new table saws, jointers, planers, etc.  So far I've worked through the TS and started on the jointer.  The only measuring tools needed are a dial indicator, a feeler gauge and an accurate square - I got all 3 from Grizzly at very reasonable prices within 4-5 days of ordering.

   Note I left out straight edge.  John has a different approach, using a "master bar" - a piece of MDF with 3 screws that are perfectly aligned (using 2 other similar bars). Alignment is quick, investment very low and you can make them any size(s) you need them.

5. 
   daleduvall | Feb 27, 2004 07:24am | #13

   My preference is the square edge as opposed to the tapered. I agree that it is harder to see light under, but I use a flashlight and/or feeler gauge. I like the square edge because it will stand on either accurate edge (hands free). Starrett recommends that their straight edge be stored laying flat .. guess it just depends on the type you have.

   Dale

6. 
   Michmesquite | Feb 27, 2004 07:42am | #14

   I'll agree with Dale. I have a 36" Starrett and it one of the most useful tools in shop. If I had it to do over I would opt for a 48" Starrett.

   Get a good set of feeler guages.

4. 
   MyTacoma | Feb 27, 2004 05:06am | #8

   Try this place:

   http://www.powerhouseproducts.com/store/merchant.mv?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=PH&Product_Code=POW256431&Category_Code=CYLINDER+HEAD

5. 
   juglans | Feb 27, 2004 03:20pm | #15

   Lee Valley sells a very nice 40" straightedge perfect for the job and very reasonably priced. 

1. 
   AlanMikkelsen | Feb 27, 2004 11:15pm | #22

   Here's another vote for the 40" Lee Valley.  Reasonable price, square and bevel edge.  Works for me.Alan & Lynette Mikkelsen, Mountain View Farm, est. 1934,  Gardens & Fine Woodworking, St. Ignatius, MT

1. 
   2002XX | Feb 28, 2004 12:44am | #23

   I want to thank all of you for you responses. I looked at each one carefully and will be checking all the sites again before making my final choice. I wanted to mention also that I did buy a book strictly on jointers and planners and I also have two books on tuning your table saw. I started ordering books before I even went to look at machinery. Also someone wrote about a Grizzly top, they were in the running but I went with Jet since I have a dealer 15 minutes away. I know some of you have never owned a straight edge and have gotten along fine but I felt like I wanted one perfectly  straight  piece to check all my power tools, squares, and the wood before I work it and after I work it just to make sure everything is ok.  Thanks again for all your knowledge and experience with straight edges and sharing it for all to read, RICK

2. 
   2002XX | Feb 28, 2004 02:05am | #24

    Lee Valley has discontinued the 40" straight edge. Site said product no longer available.

6. 
   JohnWW | Feb 27, 2004 07:16pm | #16

   Rick,

   You don't need a machinist's straightedge unless you are having problems with the machines not cutting properly and you may never have that problem, especially with new machinery that's well maintained. 

   Invest in a good book on tuning up power tools first and run through the normal tune up procedures.  If, after that, you can't get straight square cuts on your stock, and you have eliminated the more common causes of the problems, then you may need  some sort of straight edge to track down the problem. 

   You will be spending big bucks for a tool you may never need if you go out and buy one now.

   John W. 

7. 
   BenM | Feb 27, 2004 08:45pm | #17

   FWW had an article on tuning up a jointer that showed how to make a straightedge using a length of wood and 3 screws.  I believe it was in the May/June (#142) issue.  Can't beat the price.

8. 
   CRAIGCONEY_M | Feb 27, 2004 09:27pm | #18

   I bought a 48" aluminum level with a machined edge & magnetic strip on the other side at one of the box stores- I paid about $29 for it.  It  works well, I use the magnet side to set up my outfeed tables/rollers/supports - holds the level in place while I adjust the height.  Machined side is flat- works great-no problems. 

   
   

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   Edited 2/27/2004 1:28:53 PM ET by craig

9. 
   ChasStanford | Feb 27, 2004 09:35pm | #19

   I'm afraid that you are most likely to be very disappointed if you check a Grizzly saw top with a high-quality straightedge. 

1. 
   JohnWW | Feb 27, 2004 10:00pm | #20

   Probably not one tablesaw in twenty has a top that is close to flat.  This, in my experience, is just as true of domestically made saws as it is of Asian saws. 

   Surprisingly, an out of flat top on a tablesaw has little affect on the squareness and straightness of most cuts whether ripping or crosscutting.  An out of flat top can cause some problems when using a tablesaw to cut complicated joints that require high precision to fit well.

   John W.

1. 
   ChasStanford | Feb 27, 2004 10:37pm | #21

   I agree.  When I owned a tablesaw I don't have any specific recollection of checking the top for flat, just the blade 90 degrees to the top. 

   I've never owned a machined straightedge.  The day I feel like I need one is the day I'll quit woodworking.

   I use only hand tools in my operation.

1. 
   wrudiger | Feb 28, 2004 06:44am | #26

   It all depends on where the low spot is...

   My old Unisaw had a .006" dip right in front of the blade that did give me issues with shorter stock.  It was bad enough that I could see it just looking across the top; for that (and the fact that I only paid $450 for the saw) made the trip to the grinding shop worthwhile.

1. 
   ChasStanford | Feb 28, 2004 08:08pm | #27

   That's definitely the worst spot...

2. 
   2002XX | Feb 28, 2004 09:09pm | #28

   Just thought i would let you all know I just purchased the 36" Starrett  from J&L Industries. I also purchased an off brand 8" beveled straight edge for smaller jobs. Thanks again for all your ideas and help. Rick

10. 
    rslatm | Feb 28, 2004 05:15am | #25

    http://www.mcmaster.com page 2063

    I have a 4 and 6 foot Starrett from my machine repair days but have since found a sharpening shop that does paper knives. When too small to be used anymore they can turn them into straight edges. Not as good a steel as my Starret but just as accurate and can easily be reground if necessary. Six footer is around $75

    
    

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    Edited 2/27/2004 9:20:51 PM ET by Rick at Arch. Timber and Millwork