Replies

1. 
   SteveSchoene | May 13, 2008 03:47am | #1

   Not that I can think of.  Just chant--steel wool means 3M pads a few hundred times. 

1. 
   pdxwoodsman | May 13, 2008 03:52am | #2

   Thanks Steve,

   Unfortunately I'm not that fond of using the pads with chemicals...

   They also leave a residule, though not as visible as SW!!!

   Cheers!

   Mike

1. 
   HowardAcheson | May 13, 2008 05:16pm | #3

   Non-woven abrasive pads (aka "Scotchbrite") does not contain any contaminates or chemicals. They are totally inert. After all, they are used for cleaning your pots and pans.There are a number of different abrasive grits with white being finer than 4/0 steel wool, gray being between 4/0 and 3/0 and green being about 2/0.However, I'm somewhat confused about when you are using the abrasive. Neither steel wool or the non-woven should be used for between coat abrading. You want to use sandpaper for that. The objective is to flatten and smooth the surface. The sandpaper should be mounted onto a flat sanding block so you flatten the surface as you sand. Flexible abrasives will ride up and down over irregularities without flattening them. Save the flexible abrasive pads for round or irregular surfaces. Use a flat sanding block for any flat surface.Howie.........

1. 
   pdxwoodsman | May 13, 2008 06:23pm | #4

   Howie,

   Yes there probably could have been quite a bit more information in my original query.

   I was / am doing a refinishing project.  The pads and or steel wool both degrade quickly when used under these conditions.  Because the table I'm working on required a quick turn around, I decided to use a water based finish.  Even though I brushed, used compressed air, and vacuum to  remove any residue, and then applied the typical shellac sealer coat  I still got what I believe must be rust sign.

   Regarding the use of pads between coats... good one!!!! ha ha ha....

   I was actually hoping for some photos someone might have snapped of the wire wool under water based finish.

   Thanks for your reply.

   Mike

1. 
   HowardAcheson | May 13, 2008 09:43pm | #5

   What is the wood?What are you using for a paint remover?What is the item?Howie.........

2. 
   pdxwoodsman | May 14, 2008 12:01am | #6

   Howie,

   It is a Danish dinning table.  Teak veneer, and I'm using Jasco.  I tried a 'Star 10" product which was costly and not particularly effective.  Clean up with alcohol and then water.  I did however, notice that the pre made shellac I had used was old and the can was starting to degrade...  Hard to tell which is the culprit.  I had filtered the shellac through cheese cloth and pulled all the visible particulate... that of course means little.

   Any suggestions for attemp 2?  I stripped the finish and used oxalic acid to clean up the surface.. giant pain, lost time... excellent learning experience.

   Mike

    

3. 
   HowardAcheson | May 15, 2008 01:19am | #7

   First, never use old finishing materials, particularly old shellac. Old shellac will never dry properly.If you now have the surface back to virgin wood and you have properly neutralized the paint remover in accordance with the label instructions, you should be ready to finish.What are trying to accomplish as far as a finish? Whenever I am refinishing an item, I always spray or brush on a coat of dewaxed shellac. This acts as a barrier to any remaining residue or contaminates. Do not sand the shellac. After the shellac has dried, you are ready for whatever clear coats you want to use.Howie.........

4. 
   pdxwoodsman | May 15, 2008 04:07am | #8

   Howie,

   I really appreciate your willingness to help me with this debacle...

   I've already finished the table as it needs to be delivered on Friday.  I typically don't use water based finishes because they don't have the look I prefer... much better on the brain, but I don't think they have the clarity of the VOC (solvent) based finishes.

   Please take a look at my work for a small reference as to what I do.

   Again, Thanks for your persistence and willingness to aide me with the steel wool / water based finish issue.

   Regards,  Mike Denham Portland Oregon.  http://www.mdenhamdesign.com

    

    

5. 
   GDH2 | May 15, 2008 06:41pm | #10

   Very impressive web site for a small shop!I am constantly amazed that the more I learn, the more I discover I don't know.Good luck with your current dilemma - is a deadline extension possible?

6. 
   pdxwoodsman | May 15, 2008 04:09am | #9

   Howie, One last note.

   The age of the shellac is slightly less than a year old, which I would consider on the border...  You are right... I should have just mixed a batch or bought a new tin.

   md