Replies

1. 
   RickL | Feb 02, 2006 05:13pm | #1

   Easiest way is to glue segments around the radius. Next wouldbe to laminate with 1/8" strips. Steaming such a piece will call for over bending to allow for springback. You didn't mention what type of wood. some woods don't steam as well. Know anything about the strap clamps for steam bending???   Lee Valley has a good tutorial on steam bending on their site. A bit tricky to find but knowing how to research makes for a better informed woodworker in my opinion. Also Woodcraft sells an excellent book on bending well worth the $15 and more in my opinion.

2. 
   Ozzy | Feb 02, 2006 06:46pm | #2

   Hi there, we haven't spoken before, so good to meet you.

   I  hope I understand your problem - I think I would shy away from any edge moulding prior to bending and fitting, since it will be very difficult to effectively clamp it at all if it does not present a square edge to the clamp heads.  I saw my old college teacher do this with an English Cherry edge, and he mitred the point where they meet, and did it cold.  It must be said that his strip was probably less than 3/4 inch thick, but I would imagine if you could steam it, it will go pretty easily.  I am very interested in hearing how you get on.

   I would use proprietary bearing guided router cutters for the edge when it has been attached.

   Good luck,

   Ozzy

1. 
   bugeye | Feb 03, 2006 02:25am | #3

   the most important thing in this is to use appropriate stock. Hardwoods, for the most part, steam bend much better than softwoods. Straight grain is important also in choosing your stock. It's not a very tight bend you're talking about there. If you used air dried oak, I don't think you'd have any trouble doing it cold. One problem that you may not have considered is that when you steam the piece, it will most likely get fuzzy, especially if the knives in your shaper aren't perfectly sharp. This is because a dull cutter will do some compressing of the wood fibers as it cuts, and then the steam will raise them back up. This is only a problem if the profile would be difficult to sand smooth after bending. Oh, and oak often turns purple-black when steamed, which can be fixed with oxalic acid. Good luck. I love steam bending. It's like magic.

1. 
   loucarabasi | Feb 03, 2006 03:49am | #5

   Hey bug, I am going to cut the cherry in 3/16 strips and glue them up with matching radius and shape them on a bearing guided shaper cutter.

   Thanks for the info. Never had to steam bend yet. time constraints don't allow it

   -Lou

2. 
   Ozzy | Feb 03, 2006 11:40am | #6

   Hi, Bugeye, pleased to meet you.

   You are, of course, perfectly correct in your comments.  I confess the only steam bending I have done was on a boat building course, making mast hoops.  The last thing we were worried about was raising any grain, but you are right - this will happen.

   Stay in touch,

   Ozzy

2. 
   loucarabasi | Feb 03, 2006 03:44am | #4

   hey oz, nice to meet you

   I went ahead and ordered knives for my shaper. I have a coragated head, didn't want to spend the $$(wifes pregnant w/twins)  but had to. The piece is only 45 inches long w/59inch radius. It'll cost about 285.00 when its all said and done. I was tired of staring at it across the shop. I figured at least I'll have it for the next job.

   -Lou

1. 
   Ozzy | Feb 03, 2006 11:48am | #7

   Hi there,

   I'm glad to hear you have it under control - but you have me here - what is a shaper with a corrugated head?  Please excuse my ineptititude.

   Take care, and stay in touch,

   Ozzy

1. 
   loucarabasi | Feb 03, 2006 02:34pm | #8

   I purchase a head that slides over the shaper spindle. To accept knives to cut the profile I need.  (I will make the radius first with glue up laminations and then run it on the shaper guided by a ball bearing)

   Check out the company Charles Schmidt in Montvale NJ. They have an online catalog

   -LOu

1. 
   Ozzy | Feb 03, 2006 03:23pm | #9

   Gotcha.  Thanks for that, Lou.

   Take care and stay in touch.

   Ozzy