Hello:
I am interested in buying Stanley #4 plane and I am wondering what is the difference between the one that is sold by Garrett Wade as per the link below and the old ones that are sold over ebay.
If I try to buy one of the old ones what I should look for and ask before I buy or bid.
The ones that Garrett Wade sells is made in UK, however the one that I see over the interenet some are made in USA, any difference in quality.
Thank you for your feed back
Moataz
Replies
The new ones suck. They are poorly machined and made out poor quality materials. They will require extensive work to make them function, and even then they will not function as well and reliably as the pre-WWII Stanleys.
If you go on eBay or to an old tool dealer or flea market, one easy thing to look for isa sweetheart mark on the blade ("SW" surrounded by a heart). This dates the plane from around the 1930's. The plane does not need to be super clean, but 4s are common enough that you should reject any with too much rust and certainly any with pitting. Also check the wood tote and knob to make sure they are not cracked. Otherwise, unless the plane was dropped on concrete or badly abused, it should usually be okay.
The older Stanley's tend to be more collectable but also get the most money. If this plane will be a user, perhaps your money will be better spent on something like a Millers Falls 9 or Record 04 plane.
Edited 7/30/2008 8:12 am ET by Knotscott
Samson's right. The new Stanley's aren't worth the time to look at. If you're wanting a Stanley, make sure it's made before 1940. The steel quality, the forging process, all make for a better plane.
If you're looking to buy new there is always Lie Nielsen, but my first plane and still the best (except for my shop made wooden ones) is a Clifton #5 Jack plane. Clifton just makes a great product. Worth every penny.
P.S. Have you looked in to actually making your own hand planes instead of purchasing new ones?
Fine Furniture and Antique Restoration
If your going to be a serious woodworker and wanting a #4 smoothing, spend the extra bucks and get the Lie-Nielson. Save the hours of tuning an old or new cheaper plane only to wind up with a low quality blade that won't hold an edge. [email protected]
while I'm sure that the more
while I'm sure that the more anal rikenologists amongst us would likely dispute this, but for a #4 plane suitable for a tyro, I'm gonna suggest that you get up early one Sunday and head off to the flea market. A stanley #4 of early vintage should pop up for anwhere between 5-15 bucks.
They are the most common plane, and while the blade ain't state of the art, for a newbie, the blade will endure and maintain a keen edge once applied, (which is a skill you wanna practice on a good blade before you apply it to a high=end blade anyway)
Look out for..
-chips in bed casting....but if they are superficial and don't affect the structural integrity, possibility exists to obtain tool WAYcheap
=rust on blade...pitting on the sharp side of the blade means that you ain't likely easily gonna hone them out, so why botherto try to obtain a sharpness from this. Dicker the seller down to 2 or 5 bucks and then use the crappy blade to practice sharpneing before ramping up to a Hock blad...
Rosewood knobs and totes is nice, but don't be afraid to dicker over cracks in either. Quite common, and easily fixed, and if the economics of yer first #4 is at all strained, it's a no care situation., but is a bargaining point.
Any welded cracks in the body is a no-start point for a newbie, indeed it causes alarm bells to ring with the experienced old tool afficiando. On a #4, it's a no brainer, avoid it. But with other planes, particuarly rare types, it becomes SOMEWHAT less of a detractor, but a significant detractor nonetheless...
BTW,most plane collectors have an least a zillion #4's on their shelves, so why not put an ad in Kijiji or Craigslist asking for some guidance to a possible purchase.
speaking for mself I would gladly respond to that type of inquiry, and if the planets are aligned, you get a hard-core contact in the community of old tool afficiandos, and who knows where that leads. There is an entire spectrum of "slippery slopes" to slide down in the old tool community.
And a whole community of collectors/users that once you connect with, you can freely avail yerself of.
Me, I cannot think of any LN buyer/seller who has contributed any thing other than a "ligtening of my pocketbook" while I can think of hundreds of folks in the oldtool community that have contributed and shared far more knowledge for "free"
Buy LN if you see yerself clear to do so, lots folks do, but there is an oldtools world out there that pays dividends that very few commercial ventures can't even come close to.
And buying that #4 may be the entry point for you.
hope that helps,
Eric in Cowtown
I echo the advice from cowtown, alot of very good information. I found some great gems at local flea markets and nothing beats the sensation of actually touching the plane itself versus looking at pictures on a web site. I would highly reccomend you aquire the hand plane book by Garrett Hack, loaded with great indepth information.
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