Replies

1. 
   cahudson42 | Mar 23, 2010 05:37am | #1

   Cherry Laquer Restore

   Ken,

   Lets try to keep from sanding if at all possible - with that beautiful cherry patina. Sand - and its screwed up. There is another way to smooth out the addition/repair  - called 'pulling' - more in a sec.

   First, I've looked at the Minwax and Deft MSDS - the Deft formula seems to be much more like a true nitrocellulose laquer. I use it - not Minwax. 'Deft Clear Wood Finish - laquer'. The minwax might be great, but I go with what I know works well - the Deft.

   First, before doing anything - wipe the entire area to be 'treated' with Naptha to remove any wax - in case its there.

   Then, rather than add laquer - you can try to 'reflow' with pure laquer thinner brushed lightly over the worn area and adjoining 'not so worn' area. See if it levels out. If it does, great - even if its thin. This will show if indeed it is  evaporative laquer - or unfortunately - if it does not dissolve/reflow - it could be a catalyzed laquer - and you are SOL for this next method.

   Lets say all is good - it reflows, but needs more build. Bush on the Deft Laquer - don't worry much if there are moderate brush marks - but no big gobs either. (Maybe try first on some scrap cherry sealed with shellac - or an initial spray coat of Deft to perfect your technique). Brush on only one coat. Any subsequent coats should be sprayed. Let it dry well - an hour is usually more than enough. Now no sanding!

   Instead, mix up some 'pullover solvent' - 2/3 ethyl alcohol (ethanol) and 1/3 pure clean laquer thinner. Next you are going to make what the English call a 'rubber' - an 8" square of denin wrapped around a good wad of white cotton T-shirt/undershirt, white cotton socks, etc. It should come out looking in the shape of a miniature clothes iron - and easy to hold in one hand - with a flat bottom and no creases. 

   You may want to try the following first on your scrap cherry piece - with brushed on laquer..

   Saturate the rubber in the pullover solvent - not dripping, but noticeably wet. Start dragging over the brushed laquer area like a French Polish (but NO grits!)  - figure 8, circles, finishing wiping with the grain.  You will notice the top of the finish is smoothed/reflowed - as the drag on the rubber increases. If you let the drag increase too much before 'recharging' the rubber - you will notice,  as the denim may break down leaving little bits of it behind - takes a LOT of drag for this to happen. Better to stop, let the finish dry, and then go at it again.

   You can get a truly beautiful high-gloss piano-like finish with this Pullover technique. Pullover, let dry, spray another coat, dry, pullover, etc. I find 1 brush and 2 or 3 spray coats does it for me.

   I'm amazed we haven't seen a lot more about it, but there is one excellent short video on the FWW website by 'Clarke'  showing him using it on a tabletop. Seach 'lacquer pullover' - there isn't much to find..:>)

   Oh - use good Nitrile gloves - and do outside, or well-ventlated inside and a charcoal filter mask!

   Good Luck!

   Chris

2. 
   HowardAcheson | Mar 24, 2010 11:03am | #2

   The way lacquer finishes are repaired is by padding on lacquer over the damaged spot. 

   First, you will need to clean up the area.  Avoid sanding.  Use a gray non-woven Scotchbrite pad and very lightly go over the surface.   Next you will have to tint some lacquer to the same color as the original

   Padding is done by making a pad from lint free cloth folded so that no wrinkles appear in the surface of the pad.  Barely dampen the pad in some lacquer and pad onto the repaired area.  Start  above the surface moving in the direction of the grain.  Carefully lower the pad to sort of "land" just before the repair and move quickly and evenly raising the pad just as you get to the end of the repair.  Think of a pilot practising "touch and go" landings at an airport.  When you get the repaired area covered, start moving your starting spot further into the good area and lifting after reaching the good area.  

   Lacquer "melts" into the prior lacquer surface so, done correctly, you should have an invisiable repair.  The  real trick is getting the color right. 

   Practise your padding technique on some scrap.  Then move to an area on the bottom of the table until you get the technique down.