Replies

1. 
   oldusty | Jul 21, 2008 02:06am | #1

      b,   What tools are you using ? A gouge , scraper or a skew ?

                 What wood , and is it in end grain ?  Is the speed good ?

                          tell us more                 dusty

1. 
   bmyyou | Jul 21, 2008 02:13am | #2

   I'm using a 1" roughing gouge, a small spindle gouge, and a 1" skew.   The speed is constant at about 900 rpm for the 1/2 hp motor.

   The wood is maple, cutting along the long grain

   Also having trouble getting the drive center to "bite" into this wood.

   Thanks for the help!

1. 
   jako17 | Jul 21, 2008 02:23am | #3

   Sounds like you may be scraping not turning.It should be a slicing cut with the bevel rubbing .

2. 
   oldusty | Jul 21, 2008 02:25am | #4

   Have you cut a 90° cross cut for the spurs to sink in on the drive end with a back saw or other stiff blade ?

       Personally I would use a smaller gouge or maybe a scraper , the big gouge can pull big hunks out for me .

     all else sounds fine to me , you got that thing turning the right way ? just kidding .

             dusty

1. 
   bmyyou | Jul 21, 2008 02:37am | #5

   I hope it's turning the right direction :)

   I do have a scraper with the other tools but have not used it.  The finish after turning is just very rough.  I am making the cove with the spindle gouge, then shaping the dome of the knob with the wide skew.  I made several spindles about 10 inches long today, and the last one just flipped up from the center and tail stock.

   I am drilling a small 1/8" hole in the end of the blank and cross cutting slightly with the bandsaw before trying to drive the center, but the blades of the center look very wide and dull.

    

2. 
   PaulMassachusetts | Jul 21, 2008 02:55am | #6

   High speed steel tools should make no esthetic difference in your effort; they only last longer between sharpenings. Where are you located (state or country)? You should try to make contact with one of the many wood turning clubs. The wood being turned should not be loose ...are you making the knob with a short small piece of wood ?  I prefer to use a woodturning chuck on the drive end to hold scrap pieces used for knobs.

1. 
   bmyyou | Jul 21, 2008 03:07am | #8

   Yes, I realize I didn't explain that very well in the previous note.  To rough the cylinder, I first mounted it in the drive center and tailstock.  Then I penciled off lines for the stub of the tenon and the head of the knob and used the parting tool to mark those transitions.  I then turned the stub of the tenons down with a spindle gouge.

   Then I separated the knob blanks with stub tenons, and I replaced the drive center with a drive chuck to hold the short stub and knob blank.   I use the spindle gouge to cut the cove ahead of the stub tenon, and a skew to shape the dome of the knob.  But the finish on both the tenon, cove, and mushroom of the head seem pretty rough.  There are no nicks in the wood, but the feel is very rough; is that normal or should they be a lot smoother?  sanding with 150 grit seemed to be too fine to clear the roughness.

    

1. 
   PaulMassachusetts | Jul 21, 2008 03:16am | #9

   It sounds what you are doing is correct to me as far as technique.  This is where being in a club or taking lessons might help.  It is hard for me to tell without seeing it.

3. 
   joinerswork | Jul 21, 2008 03:05am | #7

   bmy,

   Just a guess, but it might be that the angle that you are addressing the tool to the wood is wrong.  If the tool is presented to the wood more or less perpendicular to the centerline, it will tend to make a scraping cut, and chatter and tear out.  The best cut occurs when the tool's edge is presented nearly tangent to the surface being cut, with the tool's bevel riding, or supported by the surface of the spindle.  You can try this with the lathe unplugged, by turning the spindle by hand while playing with the attack angle of the tool.

   I like to make cove cuts by presenting the gouge rolled up nearly on its side, handle raised somewhat, and rolling it down to its center as it is moved towards the bottom of the cove, alternately from one side of the cove  and then the other. It takes practice, as the angle of the handle is lowered as the tool is rolled, all the while watching the cutting action of the tool.

   Ray

1. 
   bmyyou | Jul 21, 2008 03:16am | #10

   The longer chips/ribbons made are just during the roughing step, so the angle is likely too high; I'll practice what you're suggesting.

   Thanks

1. 
   BruceS | Jul 21, 2008 03:46am | #11

   Ditto the others on probable scraping.  A good ride on the bevel with a sharp tool should give you a very smooth finish.Work Safe,  Count to 10 when your done for the day !!

   Bruce S. 

    

4. 
   mike4244 | Jul 22, 2008 03:10am | #12

   Use a screw chuck instead of turning between centers for knobs. As far as the spur center goes, sharpen the lips with a dremel tool. Does not have to be dead sharp, just thinned down so the lips will stay in the saw cut. If you get it real sharp, you do not need the bandsaw except on the hardest of woods.

   If your stock is slipping then you get rough looking cuts no matter what tool you use or how sharp. You will get better each day with practice. Cut up some scrap wood,2x4's pallets etc and keep on turning.

   mike