Replies

1. 
   CStanford_ | Jan 04, 2001 04:56pm | #1

   *
   It will look great. Use a quality brush and flow it on - don't overbrush it. Practice on the backside of the boards.......

1. 
   Josh_Hill | Jan 04, 2001 05:16pm | #2

   *Hi, Bob:I think, in consideration of your moisture issue, that the spar varnish will work fine. However, spar varnish has some draw backs that you should consider as well. First, it takes a very long time to dry because it contains a lot of oil. Second, it will stay more flexible and "soft" than regular, less oily varnishes, so that it can adjust to outdoor extremes in temperature and climate conditions -- the wood expanding and contracting with changes in humidity, etc. Third, it has some additives that will resist UV effects on wood (i. e., it offers some protection from the sun) that you won't need for an indoor project. Finally, it's going to be "clear" only in terms of not containing pigment for staining, but it WILL color the wood a bit because of the ambering effect that oil finishes have on wood. In the case of spar varnish, this is a bit more pronounced.In light of all of that, I have a couple of suggestions for you:1) Use Behlen's Rock hard Table Top varnish over most of the project. It has great protective qualities, and is easy to apply; just follow the instructions. Exclude the shelf that will have contact with moisture, however.2) Instead of varnish, use many thin coats of a finish called Arm-R-Seal; it's made by General Finishes, and is available at many woodworking specialty stores, catalogs, and probably at better paint and home centers. It's VERY easy to apply, and is durable enough to use on hardwood floors. It should fit the bill perfectly.3) If you use varnish, be aware that the drying time (usually around 8-12 hours or so) means that everything and anything in the air in the county will congregate to, and settle on the surface of, your drying varnish. That means you're going to have to put on a few coats, sand in between coats with fine grit paper, and build your layers of protection slowly. And patiently. And you may have to cover the surface with a piece of cardboard to keep things from settling on the surface as the varnish dries. If indoors, this is less of a concern; but basements, garages and enclosed porches all have tremendous amounts of dust to worry about.4) Consider using brushing lacquer for any parts that will NOT take a great deal of abuse and moisture. It dries much, much faster than varnish, and is very durable as well. In fact, consider buying several cans of aerosol spray lacquer, and do the non-moisture exposed areas with that. Buff between coats with a white or gray Scotch-Brite pad before re-coating.5) For the "muddy sneaker" shelf, think about two products - first, West Systems epoxy. It's suitable for use below the waterline in marine applications (many canoe builders will tell you to use this for sleds, toboggans, boats, etc.) and it's easy to mix and apply. Again, you have a good deal of time for full curing, but the project will NEVER be under water, right? Second, Behr makes a product called "Bar Top Finish." It's similar to a two-part epoxy, with a resin and a hardener, and it comes in a three-quart mixture. It is EXCELLENT -- I used it on a small bar cabinet for a friend and a buffet that my wife uses to serve hot foods on holidays and special occasions. It holds up very, very well to moisture (it's designed for bars, after all), it's easy to mix and apply, it goes on VERY thick (the equivalent of 50 coats of lacquer or varnish, Behr claims), and it's available at the Home Depot. It's a bit pricey, but I feel, worth the cost if the project is worth the protection.6) Last one, I promise ... water-based polyurethanes are much tougher and are water-resistant once cured. They are easy to apply, dry very quickly, and do NOT amber the wood like oil-based products do. You can get exterior grade polyurethanes, also, from any quality paint store in your area. In the end, this may be the best option. Just go to the paint store or Home Depot in your area, get the exterior grade polyurethane, some mineral spirits, and some Boiled Linseed Oil; mix the oil 80% to 20% mineral spirts and coat the project with the mixture to get that warm, yummy look from the pine. Wait one week for the oil to dry completely (when you can't smell it anymore, it's ready). Then coat with the polyurethane. You don't have to add the Boiled Linseed Oil/Mineral Spirits concoction if you're using an oil-based exterior poly, by the way. But the water-based ones are tougher and more flexible. If you don't want the wood ambered at all, then again, skip the oil/mineral spirits thing.Well, I hope I haven't frightened you. Finishing isn't the voodoo many woodworkers have come to believe it is, and once you're proficient at it, your projects will be that much more rewarding.Good luck!Josh

1. 
   Bob_The_Boardman | Jan 05, 2001 09:47pm | #3

   *BobJosh is right on, and covered the points quite well. I too would recommend the water base poly. Easy to use, easy to clean, dries clear, and is an extremely tough finish...that's a rough combo to beat.Bob

1. 
   Gretchen_ | Jan 06, 2001 04:22pm | #4

   *The preceding posts have covered a lot of info. There is an easy way to obviate the problem of brushing on your finish and the possible dust nibs. Use the 50/50 finish--dilute your varnish (I use marine spar, not poly) 50/50 with mineral spirits or naphtha and wipe it on with a lint free cloth or good paper towel. Do not overwork or go back over it as it dries very quickly. You do have to put on multiple coats to build your finish coat but you do not have the brushing problems. It makes a beautiful finsh that is foolproof. The marine spar will be more flexible and perhaps more forgiving to kicks than the harder finishes which are more brittle and may chip.

1. 
   CStanford_ | Jan 06, 2001 09:58pm | #5

   *Gretchen is absolutely right on the money with her suggestion. Thin it to wiping consistency. My experience from years ago with poly on pine is that the resulting color does not look right. The ambering effect (due to a higher oil content) of the spar results in a nice, warm honey-pine color. The only thing you are giving up by not using poly is finish "hardness" and I wouldn't worry too much about it. You need a waterproof surface and that situation is taylor-made for spar varnish.

2. 
   Doug_Nelson | Jan 30, 2001 05:05pm | #6

   *Josh Hill--I am building a workwhop for my artist son who lives in a rainy mountain area in the East. We have a lot of cherry and mahogoney on hand in the rough and we plan to plane it and use this wood to frame the windows (cherry) and to side the building (mahogoney). I hate the idea of having to paint this beautiful wood but I ehate the idea of having to re-finish a natural finish every two years even more. What are your recommendations? Do you know of a natural finish that will hold up? Or should I bite the bullet and paint? Thanks.

3. 
   Danford_C._Jennings | Jan 31, 2001 12:26am | #7

   *Doug,I agree in part with TAB's post. While I question the use of cherry for exterior trim, if you use a high quality marine spar varnish like Interlux, your maintenance intervals will be much longer. If all the trim work is milled with a slight radius instead of sharp corners this will also help. FWIW.Dano