What is the best method for cutting sliding dovetails? I needed sliding dovetails for front rails and I seated the dovetails into the sides of a cabinet. I tried making them with my router table but I did not have a zero clearance insert to close the gap between bit and my table so I ran into problems holding the rail squre to the fence as I ran it across the dovetail bit. The 2nd method I tried was using my dovetail jig – which has, on the half-blind insert, a rail used to cut what they call dovetail dados. This worked better but I thought it was cumbersome because I was not sure where to line up the rail with the workpiece and the rail, when adjusted, needs to be square to the piece – if you are not careful you can set the rail so it is not parallel to the workpiece. I am thinking that the router table method would be better method but it requires I buy a new router plate to accept a zero clearance insert (this addus up to over $100).
Also, using a router table requires multiple passes to get the thickness just right and my fence doesn’t have micro adjustments so it is hit and miss in making sure I set the fence at the correct depth – makes me want to consider some other joinery method. I have not seen any jigs that convince me there is a more accurate approach.
There has to be a better way – especially when the sliding dovetails are use in the face-frame – where accuracy is important – I found very little on this topic in a recent search. Thanks, Tom.
Replies
Make a simple side mounted router table. That way you don't have to try to balance a long narrow piece on end. Comes in handy for many other things, too.
Beat it to fit / Paint it to match
That's a nice jig. Is that a power feeder on the opposite side of the fence from the router?Government's view of the economy could be summed up in a few short phrases: If it moves, tax it. If it keeps moving, regulate it. And if it stops moving, subsidize it.
Yes, that's one of those 1/4 HP feeders. obviously, you wouldn't want to use one for some operations. It just happened to be on the router table when I took the picture. I move it around on router tables and the table saw quite often. If you do multiples or just need to keep fingers out of the way, they are great. Bits and cutters seem to last longer and there isn't any operator error. The feed is consistent. My fingers sometimes lock up after a couple of hours on a machine. The power feeder eliminates that problem.Beat it to fit / Paint it to match
Check post # 1250.11
Frosty
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Part of the story.
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