Peter, I’ve been following your discussion with Mike D., and I feel his pain. At the moment, the particular demon I’m dealing with is shellac.
I enjoyed your five-part video series on finishing, and you make shellac application look so easy (I guess that’s why you’re the expert). Well, I’m trying to learn how to use the stuff; but during my second and subsequent wipings, it starts building up some tack in spots that form visible ridges. Once these ridges appear, no matter how much I sand them down, they reappear on the next wiping. I suppose I could sand down to bare wood again, but that seems counter productive.
I’m using Zinsser’s Sealcoat in a quart can, and I’ve now diluted that down to a one-pound cut. I’m still getting the sludgy tacking. BTW, I opened the can fresh about six month ago, and I don’t recall this bad a problem back then. I’m near the bottom of the can now.
Can you give me some idea as to what’s going wrong?
Replies
I used to have the problem you're describing but picking up a hint here and there has produced a solution.
First, instead of a wiping rag, create a pad by wadding up some cotton batting (you can find this wherever sewing stuff is sold) and put it inside a piece of that lint-free cotton cloth you're using for wiping. A convenient size for each is about 10 inches by 10 inches. Pull the cloth tight so the bottom is smooth (important) and use a rubber band to close it at the top. It'll look like a baby's sock filled at the toe.
Then dip it into the shellac, wait a second for the shellac to be absorbed into the pad, and lightly apply to your workpiece. You can probably apply several coats before the pad starts to drag, at which time a few drops of mineral oil on the pad will restore the smooth application. I find that when I get to the sixth coat or so, I have to stop and let the shellac dry for about an hour, and maybe even make up a new pad.
A simple rubout could be with 0000 steel wool and wax to give a nice satin finish.
I make up my own shellac using shellac flakes and denatured alcohol, with a 2 lb cut having the consistency of apple juice.
actuary, I appreciate the advice. These are things I'm not doing yet, and I'm going to give them a try. I'm especially going to start mixing my own shellac from now on. Thanks again.
KWL
The ridges you are seeing are called "roping" The shellac starts to load up when all you use is a straight line for application.
Another possibility is the outer cloth on your pad is too thick. Are you using tee shirt material? This can play havoc with the surface especially if there is a wrinkle in the face.
The fix for this is to sand the edges as best as possible, without going through to bare wood.
Next you need a better pad. I see someone has given one way to make a pad.
Here's another;
For most of my basic work I'll use a good cheesecloth for the interior. This is not the stuff you get at a craft center or a hardware store. I get mine from a supplier of wiping materials. It is of much better quality. An old wool sock also makes a great core.
For the outer cover I use a very fine cloth again from a supplier. It is finer than linen and allows the shellac to flow nicely through it.
Sometimes I'll use cotton wadding to cover the core face as an option.
To make the core I'll start with a piece of cheesecloth that is folded over about four times to make a square of about 4 - 5 inches. Fold the corners into the center and then form it into an egg shape. It takes a little practice but is not hard.
I'll cut a square of my facing cloth as needed to wrap the core. I don't ever fasten it as I take the outer cover off while charging my core. This also allows me to rinse the outer cover of shellac that starts forming up along the perimeters.
I'll put the face on the core and shape it into an egg and wrap the cloth to fit nicely in my hand.
When ready to start, remove the face, charge the core and the face with a little alcohol. Then charge the core with shellac by dipping it in a container or pouring some in. Put the outer face back on, draw tight and wrap the cloth around the top. It should fit nicely in your hand.
If you load too much shellac it will ooze out of the side of your pad as you start up so use a light tough when beginning. Start out with a circular motion and make sure you cover your edges well. Then start moving towards the center. You'll see that the lines of the circles start to meld together.
After the surface has been covered well, I'll start to use long figure eights to straighten out the circular marks.
Then I'll move onto a long straight pull, back and forth.
On a small table top like the one in the video, this was all done on one charge of the pad. Novices tend to load the pad too often, so bear that in mind.
You'll notice I made no mention of any type of oil for the pad. This is just a matter of personal touch. If you get used to not using it you'll feel the shellac under your pad better. This is also a matter of great debate at times ( like everything else)
If you really don't like what you see on the surface now, there is no need to sand. Just put some paper towels doubled up on the surface, wet well with alcohol and cover with plastic or newspaper. In about ten minutes or less you can roll back the towels and just wipe the surface dry. The shellac has re-dissolved.
Rest assured, with a little practice you'll feel a lot better about using shellac. It is one of the best coatings there is.
While I don't know how old your shellac is, there should be a date on the can. Don't ever work straight out of the can either. Pour off what you need and close up the can. After you charge your pad from this container, put a top on it. Small squeeze bottles are perfect for dispensing your shellac. Also, NEVER put your pad down on the bench. Put it on a plastic lid, a glove etc. If you are not going to use it for a while, put a little alcohol on it to keep it pliable, and then close it up in a small container.
While I still make some of my own shellacs, whenever I need blonde I reach for the can of SealCoat or the small bottles that Liberon products sell. Liberon also sells pre made garnet and button shellac if you ever want to try a different color.
Good luck.
Peter
Thanks for your response, Peter. It contained such a wealth of information that I printed it, but it's going to take time to absorb it all. I really didn't know just how important the pad is.
While on that, I have some cheesecloth from Woodworker's Supply. Is that the quality I need? And I have no idea where to get the proper facing cloth. It it's not too proprietary, would you tell me how to get in contact with your supplier?
You've given me hope. Thanks again.
Kwl
First off I didn't mean to overload you. Once you break it down to a common sense mode you'll be fine.
The company I get my supplies from is
Carey Wiping Materials, http://www.careywiping.com
The cheesecloth I use is # 207-905, the outer cover is called sugar liner # 208-900
Sometimes codes change so a call might be in order. Also, I'm not sure what the minimum is.
The pad is the key to this. Just be aware, I've told you how I do it. There are many opinions on what works best. With a little practice you'll find out what works for you. Don't be afraid to experiment a little.
Good luck.
Peter
Woodcraft also carries a product called trace cloth. I don't remember if it was good for the outer cover or not. You'd have to look at it. If it is thinner then old cotton bedsheets it will do fine.
I appreciate that, Peter. Thanks.
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