To any and all,
I’m using Zinser clear shellac to finish some spalted maple boxes that came out of a cracked slab of burl.
I’ve read somewhere that this product is equal to a 2 lb. cut. I have the feeling that I should start out with a 1 lb. cut. Would this give less of a darkening effect? I want the grain to stand out but don’t want to darken the wood any more than necessary. I tried some BLO on a scrap piece and it turned it a very nasty brown.
How and with what would I reduce the shellac from it’s current state to a 1 lb. cut. I have a hunch it’s more complicated than just mixing it 50/50 with alcohol.
Any advice would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Mack
“WISH IN ONE HAND, S–T IN THE OTHER AND SEE WHICH FILLS UP FIRST”
Replies
Mack..... I don't mess with this cut or that cut w/ shellac. I mix mine w/ flakes to the thin consistency that eyballs good to me and go with it!!!!
James
I cut to a consistency my eyeballs like (something between 1lb and 2lb) and eventhough the consistency feels good when I brush, I still get more sags and fat edge in the final finish than I'd like. I'm trying to brush it on quickly and leave it alone, but in doing so, I'm obviously getting too much finish on in certain areas. What can I do to improve my brushing tecnique?
Move fast. Don't push down on the brush (don't "pump" it). Hold it more vertical than you think you should. Accept whatever a light, single stroke lays down. Build with multiple applications.Learn to spray. You will NEVER go back.Rich
I can spray, but I don't have the appropriate exhaust system for shellac. I sprayed a small sample once and loved it, but I'm putt off by that explosion thing.
Quick I'd make it thinner
James
Quickstep,
I had similar problems untill I started to over thin the shellac.. over thinned shellac flows smoothly and doesn't leave the tell tale run marks that runs with thicker shellac does..
Another advantage of that approach is how fast it dries.. I've put 2 pound cut on and waited several hours only to feel a still tacky surface.. when I cut it down to one pound cut or less It direson time and I don't have to blame age of the shellac mix rather than accept the fact that it works better thinned out..
get out of the way and let shellac do what shellac wants to do.. flush quick thin coats on, they dry quickly. Level themselves and never leave brush marks etc..
frenchy,
I know you don't want to hear or accept it, but if shellac takes hours to dry at any cut it is too old to use. Long drying time won't be your only problem.
From the website of Hock Finishes....
"As soon as the flakes mix with the alcohol a process called esterification begins to slowly change the shellac's chemical structure. This reaction increases drying time and reduces water resistance in the dry finish. Your shellac mixture should remain fresh and usable for six to twelve months or more if kept cool. To test it for freshness apply a drop of shellac onto a hard surface and let it dry for several hours. If you can indent the drop with a fingernail, its drying time has slowed indicating that the shellac is getting old. It may still be usable, but its water resistance and overall toughness may be compromised."
I suppose if you thin old shellac enough that you are barely leaving any solids on the wood it will mask the fact that the shellac is too old.
Rob
Rob,You are absolutely right. Unfortunately, the advice that Frenchy insists on repeating on this forum is wrong on so many counts. His contention that over thinning is the "answer" to problems HE has had with shellac is the worst advice I have ever read about its use.In his enthusiasm, he may get others to try shellac, but someone without good former experience with the stuff is just encouraged to develop nothing but poor practices with it. That's a shame.Over thinning does nothing to improve shellac's drying time. A 2# or even 3# cut of fresh shellac dries in no more than a few minutes. Over thinning not only masks a bad batch of shellac, but prevents an adequate film to ever build.Rich
Rich 14
In close to 100 gallons of shellac how come I have never had a problem drying shellac when I cut it to one pound? Yet I frequently have had problems nearly every time I leave it at 2# cut or greater?
I've washed off 70 year old shellac and been able to reuse it. Why?
Shellac is a fine finish.. very tolerant of various practices.. I've done the deep smooth polished look with my over thinned approach. I personally don't like that look but that doesn't mean you are wrong to want to do it that way.. Nor are you wrong to spay it or brush it or pad it or whatever trips your trigger..
However you are absolutely wrong to insist that it can only be done your way.. every other way is wrong and the user must be punished for doing so..
Frankly you aren't the shellac police..
I've got to tell you all these discussions are some of the best yet!
Shellac is a great finish! it's versatile and makes an excellent sealer and so on.
its not a crime to do things differently, as long as the results meet the users stringent demands, and the fact that there is dialog does'nt mean there must also be contention!
I like these discussions because they're always colorfull and full of information, both Good and bad! maybe I'll just leave it at that.
ChaimMake your own mistakes not someone elses, this is a good way to be original !
chaim,
Great response. The sort I hoped for.
Try a variety of ways and find what works for you.. then encourage others to do the same..
Frenchy,I haven't said do it "my" way. It's hardly "my" way to describe techniques that have been recommended and refined by finishers for literally hundreds of years.Use the stuff any way you want. Who's telling you not to? However, you keep insisting that you, and you alone, have discovered some kind of great secret to the application of shellac and that your methods will save people from the "wrong" way advocated by everyone else. And that over thinned shellac dries harder than more concentrated stuff. There simply is no merit in your advice. None.I'm just setting the record straight and telling anyone who doesn't know how to use it that your advice is misleading and that your techniques will fail to get even a fraction of the benefit of shellac's properties. Your understanding of the physical properties of shellac is simply incorrect. In that regard you ARE wrong. Over thinning does nothing to enhance its qualities, accelerate its drying, or improve any characteristic of shellac's abilities as a finish.Your contention that since you have redissolved old shellac in alcohol and that the resulting stuff will dry if you wipe it onto some substrate does NOT prove that shellac is usable as a finish indefinitely and that shellac doesn't eventually "go bad" as every other finisher who has ever used it enough HAS confirmed.It simply proves that you can dissolve old shellac and that the resulting very dilute stuff CAN be made to dry. No question, Frenchy, that you HAVE proved that very dilute shellac dries! That doesn't make old, redissolved shellac a finishing material. It just confirms that it dries. As I've challenged you before, scrape enough old shellac off some furniture to produce enough working solution at a 1-2# cut to actually refinish some freshly-prepared, unfinished wood. Then tell us how THAT finishing project turns out. Ugh!Your experiences with shellac are highly idiosyncratic and your recommendations won't lead novices in any direction that will benefit their understanding or appreciation of shellac as a finish. Anyone who DOES know how to use shellac, thankfully won't be swayed by your suggestions.
Rich 14
first, I know I'm not the first person to over thin a finish and then flood it on.. that technique was taught to me many decades ago only with lacquer not shellac.. I'm certain it was also used before him..
Therefore it's impossible for me to claim it's invention..
Second, the stories and myths about shellac make it seem like this Holy Grail which only the worthy can use. After decades of training by the masters..
I want to and to a degree have shattered that myth..
Over thin it, flood it on, and step back.. shellac will still work..
Third, If I'm wrong about shellac's drying at some point in all of those gallons of shellac something would have gone wrong.. the odds are just too great.. yet you guys who use thicker coats all seem to have problems with old shellac. Why don't I? Why don't the people who use my technique have problems with old shellac? (That's a rhetoric question)
However I don't insist that you over thin shellac as I've done.. you are free to do as you wish.. I'm not the shellac police insisting on how to shellac stuff.
I offer my method and allow you to be free to offer your method and recite chapter and verse etc.. You can insist they attend your college of shellac. and recite the right mantra all you wish..
I will continue to do so for anyone who seems to have trouble..
YAAAAAAAWWWWWNNN.
Just so everyone knows, if you thin a gallon of 2# cut of shellac with 2 gallons of DNA, the resulting mixture will have approximately 5% solids by volume. Shellac should have a dry film thickness of around 1 to 2 mils. If you are lucky you may be able to apply a 2 mil thick wet coat of the above mentioned mixture, which would require 10 to 20 coats to achieve a dry film thickness of 1 to 2 mils.
Just so you know.
Rob
Yep, I agree with that calculation. One gallon Seal Coat plus 2 gallons DNA give percent by volume ranging between 5.2 and 5.6 percent solids.
There is nothing inherently wrong with putting on only insignificant amounts of shellac. All it will do is provide a little coloration for the wood, looking rather like an oil varnish mix. Not any more protective than oil varnish. Shellacs inherent hardness would hardly come into play and abrasion resistance would be essentially the same as bare wood.
But an oil finish is hardly what people use shellac to obtain. It can be a finish of great beauty but not when it has virtually all soaked into the wood. It can do a great job of retarding water vapor transfer, but only when there is a meaningful film thickness.
Just an aside here whilst all the F/P gurus are gathered in one place: has anyone tried shellac (presumably super cut) as an anti-tarnish for brass? If so , how effective is it ? Would it be useful for me to put on the inside surfaces of those planes with brass sides?
I await a consensus of opinion from the cognoscenti.Philip Marcou
Well, it was used for that in the eighteen century, often with the addition of gamboge, a reddish yellow pigment made from the gum resin from genus Garcinia trees. The idea was to make the brasses on furniture look more like gold. I think that coloration (probably less dramatic) is also part of aerosol lacquer sold specifically for protecting brass today.
I haven't used shellac for the purpose and can't say how well it really works. But I do know that the lacquer always breaks down eventually, leaving a really ugly mix of bright and tarnish until the lacquer breaks down and the brass can be polished a new. (Would removing or installing blades risk scratching that coating.) Frankly I'd not sure I'd do it. Lacquered brass never looks quite as nice to me as newly polished brass, but that may be a hold over from my Navy days.
Edited 3/28/2008 7:44 am ET by SteveSchoene
"Second, the stories and myths about shellac make it seem like this Holy Grail which only the worthy can use. After decades of training by the masters.. I want to and to a degree have shattered that myth.. "You're the one and only contributor who has tried to perpetuate this "myth." Where do you come up with this nonsense? What "stories and myths about shellac" are you talking about? I guess if you can't get your reader to fall for your scam that there IS such a mystique, than your method is not worth continuing to read.You start out every one of your diatribes claiming that shellac is a nightmare (apparently because you couldn't develop the most rudimentary of skills ans just a tiny, tiny amount of patience, easily developed by anyone in a few minutes) and that only your sloppy, "lick and a promise" (your words) application methods will rescue the hapless inexperienced shellac user.Shellac is no mystery. Its use is very straightforward. Like anything else worth doing, it takes a little effort to learn some specific techniques. They are not hard to learn at all. Once learned, like any other acquired skill, the process seems much much easier than it seemed at the beginning. It's enjoyable and rewarding.Shellac requires a certain minimum film thickness to give the finish characteristics for which it is highly regarded. It's one of the most versatile finishes we have.Your advice recognizes none of these facts and is simply an invitation to shoddy work. You confuse and mislead every time you get up on your soap box.
Rich 14 Shellac police..
Well about the only time I comment is when I hear of someone having trouble.. Or someone not at all familar with shellac..
I offer a simple method that works constantly and if you would get off your fat butt and actaully try it you would find out it does work.. Like a few others on this thread you insist that there is only one way to shellac things. Your way.
The only down side of my approach is that you use more denatured alcohol. In exchange you don't have the same risks regarding dry brush and brush marks that others have reported..
In addition in approaching 100 gallons of shellac I have never run into a can of stale shellac.. why is that?
If your memory weren't so poor, you would know that I gave you the benefit of the doubt several years ago and diligently tried your "method." Three or four applications resulted in so little shellac on the wood that there was nothing to rub out. There were were obvious brush marks which I was able to gently remove with 320 grit, but it wasn't worth the effort because it was so easy to reveal bare wood.I also tried spraying. Same result. No matter how wet I got the surface, there was no appreciable build after 4 spray applications. I was spraying little more than alcohol.That was when you posted some pictures of your handiwork. I seem to remember some floors, mostly in shadow, and some distant panels. It was then I realized, you had very little ability to critique your own work and that you didn't seem to ever examine the surfaces up close as is necessary when finishing furniture."I have never run into a can of stale shellac.. why is that?"You mean that you have never been able to detect a non-hardening shellac film after the alcohol has gone. As mentioned by others, how could you tell? There is so little solid film after your application that the actual characteristic of the shellac isn't discernible."Like a few others on this thread you insist that there is only one way to shellac things. Your way. "No, I do not. That's what you do. I and others have described MANY methods of application. You're the one who says the entire world is wrong, that all the "traditional" shellac advice leads to problems and that your wonderful discovery and method is the one true way which rescues novices and those who have stumbled from all the "wrong" ways.You can have your silly technique all to yourself now. I'm tired of arguing with a hack.
Rich
Name me any time I've said your method was wrong? Never happened, never will. I have been an advocate for a different method of application.
I also am not an advocate of thick shellac coats which you seem to feel is the only way shellac should be used.. That makes me different, not wrong! I know you consider yourself the shellac police but that's a tittle you conferred on yourself. So learn a little tolerance! Not everybody does things your way and they aren't all wrong!
But one pound cut or two pound cut the math works the same, two coats of one pound cut is the same as one coat of two pound cut.. the sole difference is the speed it will dry at.
If you put on 4 coats of 1 pound cut how come you didn't wind up with the same thickness as two coats of two pound cut? Is math different where you live? Do you have some magic painting method which removes paint instead of applies it?
Finally I suspect (but admittedly don't know) that my flooding techinque puts on more shellac than your careful brushing technique. It only stands to reason.. Your brushing techinque requires a drier (not dry, but drier) brush than my flooding technique..
The reason is quite simple. 2 lb. cut shellac is more viscous than the 0.83 pound cut that you use (given your mix of 1 gallon 3 lb. cut shellac with 2 gallons of DNA), and that allows a thicker wet coating. Flood or not, such low solids fluids have to just run off the surfaces. That of course is particularly true with vertical surfaces such as you very often have on furniture. So not only do you get more solids per mil of thickness you get more mils with the higher cut shellac.
The same is true of wiping varnishes compared to brushed varnishes where it takes 3 or even 4 coats of wiped on varnish to give an equivalent build to one coat of brushed on varnish.
Is it wrong to use very light cuts of shellac. No, anyone can do what ever fool things they want. But when the experience of centuries of users of shellac has led the vast, overwhelming majority, to a certain range of consensus, it's pretty obvious that something must be going right for all those folks. Sure one person could have a better method than a thousand others, but it's not the way to bet.
Worse, if people are new to shellac, using the super low solids approach you consistently advocate gives very misleading results as to what is really possible with shellac and how useful it could be. It does great disservice to newcomers trying to find their way to finishing the projects that they build.
Steve
I disagree strongly with your statements.. There is no one way to finish anything.. The fact that we are having this debate should indicate that.. If only one way worked then we'd have only one brush, one color, one size, one anything..
I learned the flood it on technique from a painter with many decades of experiance doing premium, often show winning work. Granted that was with lacquer but it translates to shellac well.
To my eye the flood it on approach has the main advantage of eliminating the risk of brush marks.
However you don't have to use my approach as I've repeatedly said before.. you are free to use whatever method trips your trigger.
You see I can be remarkably tolerant of others unlike the shellac police..
Frenchy,
Exactly what statements do you "disagree strongly" with?
This one... " 2 lb. cut shellac is more viscous than the 0.83 pound cut that you use (given your mix of 1 gallon 3 lb. cut shellac with 2 gallons of DNA), and that allows a thicker wet coating."
I don't know how you can disagree with that unless you think that the term "thinning shellac" would be more accurately stated, "thickening shellac".
Maybe it was this one... "Flood or not, such low solids fluids have to just run off the surfaces."
That sounds about right to me. Are you suggesting that a 0.83 # cut of shellac clings tenaciously to the surface?
How about this one... "That of course is particularly true with vertical surfaces such as you very often have on furniture."
Would it be the fact that furniture has vertical surfaces or the fact that a liquid runs more quickly off a vertical surface than a horizontal one that you have a problem with?
It might be this one... "So not only do you get more solids per mil of thickness you get more mils with the higher cut shellac."
I don't think even you would try to argue that there is more solids per mil in a heavier cut of shellac when compared to a thinner one. Are you going to try to argue that a more viscous substance wouldn't generally result in a thicker layer?
Moving along, Steve said... "Is it wrong to use very light cuts of shellac. No, anyone can do what ever fool things they want."
You have repeatedly stated that it isn't wrong to use very light cuts of shellac and that anyone can do whatever fool thing they want, so it can't be that statement you disagree strongly with. Let's keep looking.
This one?... "But when the experience of centuries of users of shellac has led the vast, overwhelming majority, to a certain range of consensus, it's pretty obvious that something must be going right for all those folks."
I would hope you don't think that the majority consensus developed over centuries developed because nothing was going right for those folks.
No, it must be this one... " Sure one person could have a better method than a thousand others, but it's not the way to bet."
If you disagree with that one I hope you don't gamble very often.
We are running out of statements here so we must be getting close. Is it this one?... "Worse, if people are new to shellac, using the super low solids approach you consistently advocate gives very misleading results as to what is really possible with shellac and how useful it could be."
I hope you don't think that your super low solids approach shows all there is to know about a shellac finish. Do you?
Finally we have this one... " It does great disservice to newcomers trying to find their way to finishing the projects that they build."
Surely that is the one you disagree with. Right? If that is the case you should have said that you strongly disagree with his statement, not statements. You can also rest assured that, once again, you are in a astonishingly small minority in holding that belief.
You can scream all you want about how everyone that tries to offer a counterpoint to your method of applying shellac is "the shellac police", but I just read through this entire thread and you are the one who keeps insisting that you are the only person here who really understands how shellac works. If you like I will make another post quoting the relevant statements to prove it. Before you go setting up any more strawmen to knock down, I would appreciate it if you would address the following assertions and questions that were directed to you before you attempt to sidestep any further.
"I haven't said do it "my" way. It's hardly "my" way to describe techniques that have been recommended and refined by finishers for literally hundreds of years. Use the stuff any way you want. Who's telling you not to?"
" (Frenchy said)"Second, the stories and myths about shellac make it seem like this Holy Grail which only the worthy can use. After decades of training by the masters..
I want to and to a degree have shattered that myth.. (end quote)"
You're the one and only contributor who has tried to perpetuate this "myth." Where do you come up with this nonsense? What "stories and myths about shellac" are you talking about?"
"Shellac is no mystery. Its use is very straightforward. Like anything else worth doing, it takes a little effort to learn some specific techniques. They are not hard to learn at all. Once learned, like any other acquired skill, the process seems much much easier than it seemed at the beginning. It's enjoyable and rewarding.
Shellac requires a certain minimum film thickness to give the finish characteristics for which it is highly regarded. It's one of the most versatile finishes we have.
Your advice recognizes none of these facts and is simply an invitation to shoddy work. You confuse and mislead every time you get up on your soap box."
"If your memory weren't so poor, you would know that I gave you the benefit of the doubt several years ago and diligently tried your "method." Three or four applications resulted in so little shellac on the wood that there was nothing to rub out. There were were obvious brush marks which I was able to gently remove with 320 grit, but it wasn't worth the effort because it was so easy to reveal bare wood."
"You mean that you have never been able to detect a non-hardening shellac film after the alcohol has gone. As mentioned by others, how could you tell? There is so little solid film after your application that the actual characteristic of the shellac isn't discernible."
Please address those things, and then if you wish, we can move on.
Rob, (expecting either an answer to what I haven't said, or no answer at all)
Hi Rob,
I am amazed at the diligence you, Steve and Rich have exhibited.
I almost fell over laughing when Rich was chastised in bold red letters, or when Steve was told he was allowed to do what he wanted because " I am remarkably tolerant of others"
How narcissistic.
I've had the chance to sit down and talk finishing with Steve as he is only about 20 miles away. He is a very down to earth person in his manner and approach.
Why he, you and Rich continually try to make sense with an unarmed person is the definition of perseverance.
Good luck dealing with the Chief of police.
Peter
Hi Peter,
It passes the time. I think he may have me on ignore anyway. If not he just got tired of me asking him to actually back up things he says with facts. Maybe someone else should quote my post so he can see it. :^)
Rob
Rob,
I think he did the same to me at one point. I finally gave up trying to make sense.
Like Hanibal Lector once said " Tedious, verrry tedious"
Peter
Love the posts, what a great debate. I concur, never had a problem with shellac at a 2 lb rate, but everything dries fast in Phoenix! Steve is right why have the VOC issue, we have enough stuff to breath.
Rob, Do you ever burn in shellac to fill holes and wood imperfections? Take shellac flakes, add Denatured Alcohol on a cast iron plate and light it on fire. Wait for it burn off and then scrape the shellac together and roll it into a stick. I use an alcohol burner to heat my burn in knife and touch the stick and drip the shellac into holes, missing parts from knots etc. Best filler around and looks great.
AZMO <!----><!----><!---->
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-------(*)/ (*)
Thanks Rob.
Frenchy, I will gladly recommend your method when someone says they want to apply shellac so you can't tell it's there, while filling the air with VOCs.
Mack,
"I've read somewhere that this product is equal to a 2 lb. cut. I have the feeling that I should start out with a 1 lb. cut. Would this give less of a darkening effect?"
The only way to determine for your sample is to try it. But it's unlikely you will see one iota of difference once you're finished multiple applications. The shellac will cause very little darkening. The 2# cut is a pretty good working shellac solution.
"How and with what would I reduce the shellac from it's current state to a 1 lb. cut. I have a hunch it's more complicated than just mixing it 50/50 with alcohol."
That is exactly what to do.
Rich
Edited 3/23/2008 8:33 am ET by Rich14
Rich,
Thanks much. I've put a coat of the Zinser on a couple of scrap pieces and it looks very promising! I may try reducing it, but what you said about multiple coats makes sense. I'll probably just go with it as is.
Thanks again,
Mack"WISH IN ONE HAND, S--T IN THE OTHER AND SEE WHICH FILLS UP FIRST"
Zinsser sells three varieties of liquid shellac. It's traditional varieties are Clear and Amber. Both are usually found only as 3 lb. cut. Clear has been chemically bleached, a process which does adversely impact its water resistance. Both Clear and Amber contain the natural wax that is a part of the raw shellac. The third kind is Seal Coat which is fairly light colored and which has had the natural wax removed. It is 2 lb. cut. The thinner for all shellacs is alcohol, generally denatured alcohol or DNA.
To reduce the 3 lb. shellacs to 1 lb. as you would use as a wash coat, you mix 3 parts of DNA with 2 parts of liquid shellac. To reduce the 2 lb. cut Seal Coat to1 pount cut mix 3 parts of liquid shellac with 2 parts DNA. If you mix 1 part Seal Coat with an equal part of DNA you get about 0.87 pound cut. The difference from 1 lb. cut is not important unless you are trying to duplicate a cut mixed from flakes with one mixed from the liquid or vice versa.
Basically if you are just applying shellac as a top coat add a dollop of DNA until it seems right.
Nope. Just add an equal amount of alcohol and that'll give you the one pound. But really, that Sealcoat stuff is pretty blonde (no offense intended to any ladies), and it doesn't change the color too much.
The other thing I might try is some waterbourne poly. If no coloration is your goal, that'll do it.
Mackwood
Steve is correct! use his directions! Just be aware that shellac is extremely tolerant.. just get out of it's way (it dries so fast)
I mix mine with two part of denatured alcohol to one part of Bulls Eye and get great results.. techincally not correct but I repeat shellac is very tolerant . This isn't a chemistry examine, close counts..
Edited 3/24/2008 5:15 pm ET by frenchy
Mackwood:
Much good advice here! You may want to wipe some alcohol onto the maple before applying any shellac to see the effect of the finish on the color of your wood. Maple can stay nice and white or can turn some really amazing shades, everything from brown to silvery grey and dark almost black if the spalting is strong! The alcohol will let you see the change without committing to the finish!
One post here refers to mixing your own shellac from flakes and I would highly recommend that approach as it will always be fresh and fresh shellac dries best! Highland hardware or Woodcraft both sell several grades in 1lb bags for about $20. Buy high quality alcohol as cheap denatured alcohol has a higher level of water in it and this will affect drying too.
Best of luck!
Madison
Madison,
Thanks for the tip! I put some "blonde" Zinser on a piece of the maple last night but it was not end grain as most of the wood in the boxes is. I have never used the shellac flakes but it certainly makes sense from the freshness standpoint. I imagine the shelf life of the flakes would be almost indefinite if kept dry and cool.
The spalting is not real strong but present in most if not all of the boxes. I will try to post pictures when finally complete.
Thanks again!!
Mack"WISH IN ONE HAND, S--T IN THE OTHER AND SEE WHICH FILLS UP FIRST"
"I imagine the shelf life of the flakes would be almost indefinite if kept dry and cool. "
You are correct. I buy it in 5 # boxes from Homestead Finishing and keep it in the refrigerator. The more processed varieties, (blond, super blond) have a shorter shelf life. But this is still measured in years if kept properly. In a refrigerator it is effectively indefinite.
Fresh shellac dries faster and harder, sands better and has better water vapor resistance.
Rob
shellac is like a woman..
Put up with ALMOST anything you do to her but change her ways!
WillGeorge:
Like a woman will put up with anything you do to her? My my my them's fightin words my dear and you got a handful of ladies here that are pretty good with a blade!
Shellac perhaps is like a woman in that it CAN be worked WITH and if done properly will yield in some pretty amazing results...mess with it and it will make a mess the likes of which you have never seen!
Now sweetie go play with your shellac and let us girls know when you';ve got it right.
Enjoy!
Madison
Madison
My Lady was wonderful! I never hurt her,, I'd bet she could beat me up ,, I NEVER hit back...
I hear you.. OK to get Upset.. All my children are Girls except for the boy! And all my grandchildren ARE Girls!I call them little women...I babysat them all and not all men are bad!
OK, so they tell their Moms THAT I HURT THEM BRUSHING THEIR HAIR!I tell my grandbabies to tell Mom and Dad what we did all day! Children do not hide things if you tEll them it is OK not to! They Love to talk!
But I am a man and we do not all hurt childrewn!
WillGeorge:
Not upset a bit my friend! Just saw an opportunity to poke some fun. Experience has shown me that boys who act tough usually aren't and instead are usually the best guys. You've got to understand I've made a living in the world of cabinet shops with all kinds of guys so I've had lots of opportunity to see how the stalions play, and I've found that now and then you've got to scare them a little to keep them guessing.
Now any man who's got a bunch of daughters and granddaughters is ok in my book! My daddy had 5 daughters and he now has 4 granddaughters and you'd think he'd won the lottery everytime he talks about any of us! He was career military and often when we moved around the world us girls would run into a few boys who didn't really appreciate that a girl could hold her own. More than once I remember some poor boy's father at the door angry over some spat between his son and one of daddy's girls, he never seemed to have much patience for that and often would punish the offending daughter with a trip off base to get an Ice Cream and some talking too! Once I got my Ice Cream and we had to sit on the bank of the Rhine river and watch swans for a couple hours, yeah he was a reall toughy!
Madison
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