Replies

1. 
   Kit_Camp | Dec 27, 2008 07:39am | #1

   Mike,

   Once the back is lapped, I think you might have better luck clamping the blade and bringing the stones to it. I use a series of small DMT paddles and then arkansas slip stones.

   Good luck.

   - Kit

2. 
   derekcohen | Dec 27, 2008 09:53am | #2

   Hi Mike

   The problem begins when you try and balance the flat bevel at an angle on the media as it is very awkward to keep registered.

   My method is to first give the primary bevel a slight hollow grind. Either use a Dremel or sandpaper wrapped around a dowel.

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   Then hone it sideways on (in my case) waterstones. This provides excellent registration. All up the process takes seconds (one the hollow is there) and enables one easily to get a razor sharp edge.

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   In action ...

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   http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ToolReviews/The%20Veritas%20Small%20Router%20Plane.html

   Regards from Perth

   Derek

1. 
   WillGeorge | Dec 27, 2008 03:48pm | #3

   Then hone it sideways..

   Just a old 'Human woodworking NUT' here that almost always does his final lapping on any edge, of any edged tool, Sideways. I 'think' it goes faster and much easier to control.

   A 'Nut' as in I put machine oil on my diamond stones or white Arkansas. I can 'see' what is happening by the lack of oil or too much oil left behind. I use my Tormek first for the hollow grind. But I am not perfect.. I left my Tormek one winter in the 'shop'. Thye water forzed! I had to purchase a new stone!

   That Tormek tool was expensive. I have to justify the cost somehow! I do love it though for some reason.

   It is very.. very.. strange. This post I found this morning. I had a dream last night that I found a old cabinet in my shop filled with old planes..  ?? I router plane among them. I never really wanted one? My routers do just fine! Is this an Omen?

   True about the dream I had last night. Submental Avant-garde thoughts?

   Edited 12/27/2008 7:49 am by WillGeorge

1. 
   philip | Dec 28, 2008 12:28am | #4

   "A 'Nut' as in I put machine oil on my diamond stones or white Arkansas. I can 'see' what is happening by the lack of oil or too much oil left behind."
   Another "nut" here but prefer kerosene....Philip Marcou

   Edited 12/27/2008 4:30 pm by philip

2. 
   xmike | Dec 28, 2008 05:12am | #6

   Oh,  most excellent and exalted ones!  I can use those answers - well, I can when my replacement blade arrives. 

   In preparation, I prepare thusly - 1) find my trusty Dremmel tool and be sure that I still have the right sanding drum and paper for it.  If not, do something similar with the drill press and a dowel, and 2) finally get around to replacing my worn out diamond paddles, so's I can put a polish upon that which I will have hollow ground.  Does kerosene work better than water on those little buggers, too?

   Thanks and best regards from Louisville,

   Mike D

   Edited 12/27/2008 9:14 pm ET by Mike_D

1. 
   derekcohen | Dec 28, 2008 05:58am | #7

   Hi Mike

   The hollow does not have to be much - just enough to register the two sides of the bevel and not rock on its centre. I went too far with the one below (the first I tried this on), but it still works just fine.

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   I do have those diamond paddles but I prefer to rest the blade on the medium, rather than the other way around - just more control. I have not used kerosine on my diamond stones - preferring water - mainly because I also use waterstones and do not want any contamination. No reason the kero should not work. I have tried WD40 in the past and that was fine (although I seem to recall that the manufacturers of DMT diamond stones do not like it).

   Regards from Perth

   Derek

1. 
   xmike | Dec 28, 2008 06:15am | #8

   Hi Derek,

   That arc does suggest that I should look at the radius of my small grinder before applying it to the blade - thanks for the heads up.

   Mike

1. 
   xmike | Dec 29, 2008 07:57am | #9

   I found the small drum for my Dremel tool and did hollow grind the stub that I have left. I discovered that a universal chisel handle (the type that has a small vice built into it that tightens when you turn the handle) gives me a lot more control of the blade.I finally got a shaving edge on the blade and reinstalled it into the plane. I am working on a set of small hinge mortises - actually, I am PRACTICING making a set of small hinge mortises before I attack my finished case and hang the doors. I had hoped that the small router plane would help me to clean up the floors of the mortises and make them perfectly smooth. Regrettably, the way that I'm using it, it is very sensitive to grain direction. Going with the grain, it works as advertised, but when I turn around to do the other end of the mortise, it digs in, gouging rather than planing and pulling up a huge chip. Clearly this is a skill that I will have to work on. Using only hand tools, I am amazed at how hard it is to make a perfect, flat bottomed, straight sided mortise the exact depth that you want, and the exact size to fit the hinge - no munchy or wavy edges, no munchy or nicked corners, FLAT bottom. Acceptable is easy, but perfect is a real dog!
   My respect for the folks that have mastered this is great.Best Regards from Louisville,Mike D

   Edited 12/28/2008 11:59 pm ET by Mike_D

2. 
   derekcohen | Dec 29, 2008 08:18am | #10

   Hi Mike

   If you are prepared to make a blade (it is really easy), grind a hex/allen key into a scraper blade like this ..

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   Here it is being used to clean out the bottom of a chopped stopped mortice (since the bottom of mortice would be visible), but you could use a sharp blade like this to shave with. Keep in mind it is a scraper blade..

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   The blade width is not relevant for you, so just grind off the end of a hex key and polish it up.

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   Then you can scrape in ANY direction.

   Regards from Perth

   Derek

3. 
   xmike | Dec 29, 2008 08:30am | #11

   Cool idea, Derek. I'll have to give that a try.
   Thanks,MikeP.S. Do you find that the large router plane is easier to control than the small plane? I have pretty large hands, and the small plane seems to get away from me if I hit a snag with it.'
   Mike

   Edited 12/29/2008 12:32 am ET by Mike_D

4. 
   derekcohen | Dec 29, 2008 09:36am | #12

   Hi Mike

   As the name implies, the small router plane is for small and delicate work, and smaller hinge mortices.

   Here is another of my mods that can aid in improved performance - a depth stop...

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   View Image

   (I have made these for the LV Large Router Plane as well)

   Regards from Perth

   Derek

5. 
   xmike | Dec 29, 2008 05:48pm | #13

   Hi Derek,That is a nice mod. I found your tip to adjust (increase) the depth of cut with a light tap with a hammer against a moderately tight cutter shaft to be a good one. I use my chisel handle, and the blade advances just enough to take the next light shaving - with the grain.But, if I were to mod the unit, I'd add a flat to the shaft and a set screw to the barrel to prevent the blade from turning, so that when I insist on making "just one more pass before resharpening" the blade wouldn't turn and mess with the side of the mortise or groove.I AM going to make myself the scraper blade you showed us.MikeEdited 12/29/2008 9:49 am ET by Mike_D

   Edited 12/29/2008 9:50 am ET by Mike_D

3. 
   sfmc | Dec 28, 2008 01:10am | #5

   I bought one for myself for Christmas and ran into the same problems. I managed to flatten the back ok but sharpening the bevel I managed to get the edge out of square but when I used it, it was easy enough to just turn the shaft to make it square to the workpiece. The next time I order from Lee Valley I'll probably also order some new blades for it. I can't complain to much though because what I used it for came out ok.

    

   We get to soon oldt und to late schmart