Send us your questions about bandsaws
user-1119429039
| Posted in Power Tools and Machinery on
FineWoodworking.Com needs your help with a new set of videos about bandsaws. Send us the question you’ve always wanted to ask about this important shop machine: How to set up a bandsaw. How to keep it well-adjusted. How to use it to best advantage. Whatever is on your mind. <!—-><!—-><!—->
We’ll select up to 10 of the best questions to use in the video series. Roland Johnson, a longtime contributing editor to <!—-> <!—->Fine Woodworking<!—-> and an authority on bandsaws, will answer the questions on camera. <!—-><!—->
Post your questions here by February 15.<!—-><!—->
Thanks for your help and your interest in FineWoodworking.Com.<!—-> <!—->
David Heim
Managing Editor
FineWoodworking.Com
Replies
I've heard two thoughts about setting up a bandsaw.
The first way says if the tires of the bandsaw have an adequate crown, the blade will track to the crown of the wheels automatically, and will run true with some adjustment of the upper wheel.
The second method requires the wheels to be coplanar to make the blade run true.
Which is better?
Center wheel tracking or fence skewing ? Is there any real advantage of one over the other when resawing?
Paul
Here's one.
What do you do when you set up a new blade and adjust your guides to fit perfectly, then when you raise the head up for a taller cut, they don't line up anymore?
Edited 1/24/2008 11:56 am ET by blewcrowe
Edited 1/24/2008 11:56 am ET by blewcrowe
Buy a better saw...
I have a Laguna MiniMax 16. I'm sure there are better units out there but this was about $2500. The guidepost is not parallel with the blade. Frankly, I've never been enamored by this machine, but how much do you have to spend?
Sorry, didn't mean any disrespect. I thought the machine in question was one of those 14" bs with a riser. If I spent that much on a machine and it was giving me that kind of trouble, I'd be talking to the tech support folks at the factory, demanding a resolution. IMO...you shouldn't be having that kind of trouble with a machine in that class.Good luck.
There was a lot of hoopla over Laguna when I bought it 3 or 4 years ago. Frankly, after I bought it I felt like I'd been "taken". Quite crude for the money, IMO. The guidepost isn't parallel (and I don't see how to fix that), the fence is neanderthal and the dust collection is about worthless.
I've had a number of conversations with them. Their comment is always, "Well, fettling and adjusting the Laguna is just a rite of passage. Our customers enjoy that aspect of it." I say "BS"!
I have two guestions perhaps basic.
First, after adjusting the bandsaw as recommended, how do you cut a straight line. Given some of the drift that occurs, I find it difficult
Second, if I can do the first, how do I set up and execute a resaw operation.
I also would like to know which is a better or a more practical way of lining up the blade's direction of cut with the fence; coplaner wheels or tracking adjustment and/or fence adjustments to line everything up. I also would like to know how to prevent blade wander so that I can cut reasonably straight rips on the bandsaw. My blade is tensioned according to its manufacturer's direction and yet it still wanders on rip cuts.
Also: are riser blocks an effective way of increasing a saw's resaw capacity or are they more like comparing a drill press mortising attachment to a dedicated mortising machine (i.e. most people will be unsatisfied with the attachment)?
And: how do I make a shop fence that won't be pushed out of alignment when ripping heavy timbers (2X8's or 4X4's)?
And: lastly, how important is motor power? You're past articles on this seem conflicting with one writer stating anything over 1hp was unnecessary and another article that compared motor hp as a critical deciding factor when choosing bandsaws.
How much HP do I need when buying my first bandsaw? I realize it depends on what exactly you're doing and cutting, but I doubt you'd want to classify an article too specifically.
Could you ask "your authority on BS's" to address whether a pin should be inserted in it's proper slot.. or not before checking for BS table flatness. And he might go on to explain "why" when he gives his answer.
Sarge..
Edited 1/24/2008 6:01 pm ET by SARGEgrinder47
Given that some/many of us have/use/or are considering buying a 14" bandsaw, what is the REAL advantage of more HP?
Thanks,
Roy
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