Replies

1. 
   odiddave | Aug 06, 2005 04:42am | #1

   True- you only really need to sand between the coats you want to look good, and to be durable. Otherwise- keep it wet, and keep it movin" !

1. 
   sanchez | Aug 06, 2005 02:37pm | #2

   THANKS, TRUELY APPRECIATED.

2. 
   HowardAcheson | Aug 06, 2005 08:25pm | #3

   I'm not sure how to respond to your question as I don't know the brand of the finish nor do I know what the directions said about application. Manufacturers want the user to be successful using the product and are the best source of application techniques and instructions. All good oil based poly varnishes are "self leveling" so I don't know what that really means.

   In gerneral, varnish finishes that have dried should be scuff sanded before applying another coat. This not only levels and smooths the surface but provides for good adhesion. If you apply subsequent coats within 6-10 hours, scuff sanding for adhesion is generally not required.

   Howie.........
1. 
   sanchez | Aug 07, 2005 02:23am | #4

   Thanks Howie, I appreciate the input.  I'm not too sure of the brand of poly the finisher's using.   However, I share a similar opinion to the advice you gave and passed it on to the homeowner.  Just thought it was better to get a few opinions.

       sanchez

1. 
   RedOps | Aug 07, 2005 04:24am | #5

   I can relate to this question, I recently sanded my woodfloor and used a new product from Minwax...It is called Super Fast Drying Poly for floors...it applies very well and you can recoat after 2 to 3 hours of drying time....as soon as the floor is no longuer tacky.  I can honestly say it is a great product designed for floor. If you have done your preparation right before applying the product (cleaning all dust!!) and you make sure you limit the movement of air in the house you dont really need to sand and scuff. It self levels and activate the previous coat to bond perfectly.  You can read about the product on the Website.  My only recommendation would be to make sure you apply some type of sealer before starting, I applied three coats and should have applied four. But with a wood sealer maybe less coat would be necessary. 

1. 
   HowardAcheson | Aug 07, 2005 05:57am | #6

   Not sure what you mean by a sealer. Floor finishes are self sealing as are every other finish. If "sealing means to seal the pores, the first coat of any finish does that. For floors and most wood finishing, thinning the first coat 25-30% with mineral spirits is all that is required. The thinned finish will more deeply penetrate the wood and it will dry faster allowing it to be sanded flat faster. There is no need for a separate and different sealer on a virgin wood floor. While the product label may call for 2-3 coats, longer lasting durability and appearence will result from at least three but four is much better. The key to ultimate durability is to apply four coats and stay off it for a week. Furniture can then be placed back as long as little carpet pads are put under each leg. Only walk on the floor in stocking feet for the next three weeks. It takes that long for poly varnish to fully cure. It's a small point but oil based finishes do not "activate" the prior coat. Only reactive finishes like shellac and lacquer will melt into the prior coat. Oil based finishes will bind strongly to prior coats as long as the prior coat is less than 8-10 hours old.Howie.........

1. 
   RedOps | Aug 07, 2005 07:36pm | #7

   Howie...thanks for the clarification...by sealer I meant exactly what you explained, to make sure you seal the pores.  I am new to this discussion group..just starting in woodworking..I think I found the right place for any of my concerns and questions.  Thanks,