I’m making a frame & panel assembly to fit above the brickwork on our Rumford fireplace – 3 sides. After reading Paul Snyder’s article in FWW#177, I was wondering what others have done.
- The frame is made of white pine & poplar; the panels of MDF. I intend to apply 2 coats of Zinsser’s Bulls Eye Sealcoat (it’s worked well for me in the past), then sand lightly between coats.
- I’d like to use a Benjamin Moore latex paint over the sanding sealer – the article seems to infer that sealer and primer are the same??!!
- Lastly, I thought about applying a clear water-based polyurethane (I have some Minwax Polycrylic), but am somewhat concerned that the W.B. poly would bleed the latex paint. Is this concern justified? Should I use an oil-based paint instead?
BTW, that MDF sure makes a mess of fine dust when routed!!
Replies
The SealCoat shellac will prevent bleed through of knots. A primer formulated to prevent stain bleed through wouldl accomplish the same task. Under paint, primer can go directly over the bare wood. There is no problem putting a waterborne varnish over latex paint though let it cure an extra day to be safe. For the best results go for the acrylic latex.
Always test the finishing system, start to finish, on scrap.
Edited 12/11/2005 7:26 pm ET by SteveSchoene
why go through all that? Why not just use a tinted w/b poly with a crosslinker. It will save you some steps.
http://www.compliantspraysystems.com
they can tinit it any color you want. The crosslinker will make it 5-7Xs more water and scratch resistant. it is already formulated for exterior use.
All what? A primer with latex enamel on top? I presume the poly top coat would be largely estetic, and would not give the same look as a tinted poly. Besides, there isn't much of a hint that spraying was part of the program.
Im sorry..I thought you asking for advice.
Forgive me for offering a suggestion that I thought would make it easier for you saving you some steps
silly me..
making a suggestion to someone asking a question.....
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